How You Achieve A Nice Edge Finish With Fenice.

[DR80]

I’ve spent quite time perfecting my edge finishing. Now, I can produce an edge comparable to the best European manufacturers. I use this system on Hermann Oak “English” Bridle Leather or chrome-tanned leathers. When edging items made with traditional veg-tanned leather (holsters), I use more common burnishing methods.

In this post, I’ll address materials, tools and technique.

Materials:

I’ve settled on Fenice edge paint, specifically the Matte Plus product that is available from Campbell Randall. I prefer the higher viscosity (Plus) product. I have experimented with the primer but have not seen any advantage in its use. This material is extremely flexible and durable. When I first started using the product, I would apply and sand. Now, I use an electric edger. The Fenice product, when dry, is thermoplastic. In other words, it melts with heat. Often, this technique is called “Hot Glazing.”

Tools:

The European leather houses use electric leather creasers that are quite expensive. If you are interested in one, they are available from Fine Leatherworking or Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. I think Campbell Randall is now offering a less expensive option.

I have made my own and it works quite well. All of these parts were purchased from Amazon.

Power supply - 3 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 300va Max, 0-130 Volt Output.

Handpiece – Dremel 1550 T2 Versa Tip Multipurpose Tool Kit or Weller SP25NUS Standard Duty LED Soldering Iron.

Tips – Brass Leather Soldering Iron Tips

I started with the Weller unit and discovered that the tip thread was 10-24. Although the brass tips are 4.5mm, I was able to thread them using a 10-24 die. The Weller unit worked okay. After using it for a few months, I purchased the Dremel tool. It is shorter and allows for better control. The tip thread, though, was slightly smaller (8-32). I carefully drilled the end with a #25 drill and tapped with a 10-24 bottoming tap. My existing brass tips fit perfectly.

Applicator – Craftool Pro Edge Dye Roller Pen (Tandy Item #3437-00). This tool is incredible. The Fenice edge paint just flows onto the edge. With a bit of experience, you can maintain a fine edge, even with contrasting colors.

Technique:

Most of my items are make with two layers of leather. My process is as follows:

1. Sand edges with an oscillating spindle sander (Harbor Freight). I use 1.5”x 4” 80 grit sanding sleeves from Rockler Woodworking.

2. Stitch.

3. Bevel edges.

4. Sand edges with sanding sponges (Harbor Freight). Course, medium and finishing with fine.

5. Apply two coats of Fenice edge paint and allow it to thoroughly dry.

6. Smooth edge with electric edger.

7. Apply final coat of Fenice edge paint.

Good luck!

Jeff

Thank you for this information.

I did this (see the picture from when i made it.) watch strap 3 month ago. The edge paint is Fenice, and no hot glazing just burnish with canvas. The watch strap is used daily since i made it and the edge is still durable and nice.

[Red Cent]

Water and a home made dowel rod in a stripped down grinder with a keyless chuck.. Leave as is, apply clear coat, dye, M&G,........whatever.

[Red Cent]

Ivenchw, you may not be compressing the leather. Get you a rolling pin and/or a one handed roller. The glue may not be dry. I sew after I glue and I machine sand some stuff but when I go for the shiny edge, I wait at least 12 -14 hours after application. Using a band sander, and after the edges get square you may see a white line. I take this off and come out with one piece of leather. Well, if you don't look too hard.

In the few years I have been on the forum, we have discussed the EDGE!! It is not necessarily what you use to obtain the edge, it is more often the leather you use. I have found that cheap per sq ft sides versus "premium" sides are stiffer and very dry. Man, does that stuff polish by simply running a wet rag on the edge and running it through the old dowel rod. Some of the premium sides were so supple they could be used for feet saver mats. And it was nigh impossible to get a shiny edge. That is when one reverts to Hide Pounder's beeswax/paraffin combo rubbed on and then, using the dowel rod to burn in the wax. It really works. One member called it the leather worker's Bondo.

By the way, getting that edge takes some studying and practice. It ain't just science, there is a little art.

[JeffGC]

I recently completed this belt following the procedure that I posted.

[DR80]

I recently completed this belt following the procedure that I posted.

Perfect finish on the edges, and a nice belt. How much time did you spend on painting the edges?.

[5 Spice]

There's a lot of great info here, and some fantastic edge work. Thanks.

[JeffGC]

The red material was slightly thinner than other bottles and required four coats. I'd guess I spent about an hour in total, but over a couple of days.

Jeff

[myjtp]

On 1/19/2016 at 11:52 AM, JeffGC said:

I recently completed this belt following the procedure that I posted.

 

WOW these look GREAT!! I can only hope to achieve edges like this one day

[nrk]

On 1/9/2016 at 8:57 PM, ivenchw said:

thx! how to avoid black line when two pieces glued together?

no way.

this is the one of few reasons some of us using pro edge finishes )

On 12/4/2016 at 8:31 AM, myjtp said:

WOW these look GREAT!! I can only hope to achieve edges like this one day

1st post describes procedure.

keep trying