cantu59 Report post Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Hello all.I've been trying to learn leather work and have been enjoying making belts. I have tried Tandy blanks and SLC Hermann Oak blanks but I keep running in to this same problem. I get this wrinkling where the buckle rubs the belts. The reason I'm asking is I've seen Saddleback belts that don't look like this on the surface after use. I understand the belt will wear in over time, but this looks like some kind of delaminating.Just looking for some wisdom. Thanks In advance for your help! Edited November 23, 2015 by cantu59 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted November 23, 2015 Are you wet forming the bent in the leather? This will help. Also, alot of belt makers skive the leather thinner in the foldover overlap section to keep the bulk down and to allow easier bending. Also make sure the leather is not too wide for the buckle, and your holes and slot are the right size for the hardware. Do some searches around this site, it may also be that you need to adjust you finishing procedure to incorporate steps to soften the leather with oils and creams. Opinions on finishing methodology are like earlobes, most of us have 2 and both are useless. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cantu59 Report post Posted November 23, 2015 TinkerTailor, Can you explain wet forming the belt? I understand the concept of wet forming, but specifically in this application, how does it help? What would I do? And with finishes, I've been using Tandy Water Pro Dyes, so I have been spraying the belt with water, then dye, resolene, and aussie. At which point would additional softening by done? Thanks again! Are you wet forming the bent in the leather? This will help. Also, alot of belt makers skive the leather thinner in the foldover overlap section to keep the bulk down and to allow easier bending. Also make sure the leather is not too wide for the buckle, and your holes and slot are the right size for the hardware. Do some searches around this site, it may also be that you need to adjust you finishing procedure to incorporate steps to soften the leather with oils and creams. Opinions on finishing methodology are like earlobes, most of us have 2 and both are useless. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norton Custom Leather Report post Posted November 23, 2015 Cantu, what portion of the hide are using? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cantu59 Report post Posted November 23, 2015 Norton, Not using a single bend or side, just using the belt blanks from Tandy or SLC Cantu, what portion of the hide are using? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Hadn't seen the pic, thought you had an issue with buckle end of belt. You should wet the leather before you fold it for the buckle. Those wrinkles on the edge are from rubbing the buckle. A larger roundover on the edge and a slightly narrower belt or larger buckle could solve this. It could also be a rough surface on the buckle catching the leather. However, if the blanks are cut too close to the belly, these wrinkles sometimes show up in the belt blank. Is the leather hairier on the back in the wrinkled areas? Edited November 23, 2015 by TinkerTailor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cantu59 Report post Posted November 23, 2015 TinkerTailor, No, the back is evenly smooth across the back. I do like that about the SLC blanks, they are very clean on the back. And I understand what you're saying about the edge and the width of the buckle, but what about in the center of the belt? If it's a solid piece of leather, why would the top layer wrinkle like this? haddn't seen the pic, thought you had an issue with buckle end of belt. Still those wrinkles on the edge are from rubbing the buckle. A larger roundover on the edge and a narrower belt or larger buckle could solve this. It could also be a rough surface on the buckle catching the leather. However, if the blanks are cut too close to the belly, these wrinkles sometimes show up in the belt blank. Is the leather hairier on the back in the wrinkled areas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted November 23, 2015 When you pull the belt through the buckle to get it tight enough to put the tongue in a hole are you bending the belt a lot at the buckle? Those kind of wrinkles can be caused by bending the leather backwards. This can happen when the belt is pulled through the buckle to tighten it. A roller buckle helps prevent this. Here is an example of a roller buckle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted November 23, 2015 mlapaglia beat me to it. Unless requested after I inform the customer, I always use a roller buckle. Customers will complain after a while how the edges of the belt look scruffy. Duuuh! That sharp horseshoe shaped opening is bad on a flat piece of leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
