Pfaff 545-H4-6/01

[SARK9]

The plug on your power cord certainly *looks* like its for 3ph...

-DC

[Ken G]

That is a single phase, 4 wire, 4 prong, twist lock plug rated for 20 amps, 125/250 volts. It has two "hot" wires, one neutral, and one ground.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7702953_wire-nema-l1420p-plug.html

[SARK9]

http://www.marincopowerproducts.com/en/3015p

Who knew? Since most industrials from factories use 3ph.....

-DC

Edited December 1, 2015 by SARK9

[Uwe]

The plug itself is not conclusive as to what they actually had or used. They may have 3-phase outlets in the factory, but the control box may expect a 1-phase input. Maybe that's why there is an intermediate little box that looks like the power cable goes to it. That box may be there to re-wire things and switch from 3-phase to 1-phase (which basically means you're not using one of the incoming wires.)

Jome, you really need to track down a manual for that control unit. You also need to track down a buddy who's good with electrical stuff and offer him/her a case of beer AFTERWARDS. I've not been able to find a manual online. Without a manual, you won't know how to make the control box do what you need it to do. You also don't really know how it is configured right now. Quite often these control boxes come with a separate display and keypad unit to do the "programming" (setting parameters that determine how it behaves). Your control box has some switches for direct settings for needle position, etc. but it also has that long white connector that looks suspiciously like serial connector for attaching a terminal or display/keyboard. Often in a factory setting, the on-site mechanic will come to set up the control box and then purposely lock out the operator of the machine from changing that setup.

Changing out the plug for one that would fit the voltage converter box is easy enough, but before you do that you really need to know what you're doing and what that control box is expecting for input. There should be a sticker or label somewhere that states what the power input should be, similar to the one on the motor. It may be close to where the power cable enters the control box (maybe after the intermediate on/off switch?)

Take some more pictures so we can see every surface of the control box (underside too). Also the anything between that plug and the control box (on/off switch, etc.) It's not easy figuring this out remotely without skype and you pointing the camera in real time.

Edited December 1, 2015 by Uwe

[SARK9]

I've dug around through a good number of older factory industrials in the former textile belts of NC, and while there are lots of "plain" 110v clutch motor equipped machines, the ones set up for balls-to-the-walls production with all the automated stuff seem to usually be 3ph. Two of the machines I bought had similar setups on them, pneumatic lifts, all sorts of needle coolers/positioners and powered and programmable remote accessories...one was a Mitsubishi Limi-stop Z, both were wired for low voltage 3ph. Guess that's why I sort of assumed it was not a single phase. I also see people get sort of skunked by buying an industrial without asking if its single or 3ph before they get it home. Its a common gotcha.

-DC

[Uwe]

If the unit truly requires 3-phase input, you could potentially use a variable frequency control box (around $150) to convert (in a minor engineering miracle) plain 110V to 240V 3-phase. I'm experimenting with one of these variable frequency boxes to drive a 3-phase motor.

[Ken G]

If it were my machine, and I considered bidding on several of the machines at that auction, I would remove the motor and all of the extraneous crap that is on that machine and install a 3/4 hp servo motor from Toledo Industrial Sewing. The website lists them at $135.00 shipped. That would eliminate the need for any converters, adapters, rewiring the house, buying air compressors, etc.

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

[sandyt]

Very very confenient, strong, high quality, expensive. Why is it crap?

I think people who used it, won't buy a servo if it brakes. But pay double the price for having it fixed. Or maybe That's just me.

Those 'cheap' servo motors are populair because of the price. Not because they are better or stronger.

It's true, the more stuff on the machine, the more stuff that could brake.

You have to consider that.

A clutch motor with some kind of speed reducer, would be the best. Almost unbreakable. And very low maintanance.

[SARK9]

The add-on pneumatic stuff is actually pretty useful...my Pfaff 481 and one of my Jukis both had small air cylinders for the foot lift and the reverse linkages. Its no big thing to convert these functions to manual/pedal actuators and have the best of both worlds...these nice hands-free capabilities plus a silent controllable servo motor that only runs when the pedal is pressed. Unless you are confident you can successfully program the current factory system, and will need and use the programmable stitch routines regularly, I would discard the existing motor (as many do with a loud or grabby clutch motor) and keep any accessories that were either pneumatic or used single phase relays or switches. A good number of small 3/4 hp servo motors are available for about the same cost as a VFD or phase converter. I personally don't care if I have to buy a new Chinese "servo" every couple of years if they keep me from having to listen to the annoying buzzing and humming of a clutch motor. However, I have had 5 servos running for several years now with no issues at all, to date. But each to their own.

-DC

[TinkerTailor]

Thank you Uwe and sandyt for all of your very helpful information!

Here are some more pics of the sewing machine setup. Uwe, I have included a picture of the end of the power cord, do you know if there is an adapter I could get to work with the converter you mentioned because it doesn't look like it would work with the converter. I would rather use a converter than run a new circuit line.

And this sewing machine needs to be cleaned up. I have also included the extra parts that came in the drawer of the table.

Is this a crack?

and the haywire is a nice touch.....Damn farmers.....lol

Edited December 1, 2015 by TinkerTailor