Best Type Of Leather For Belts? Best Conditioner?

[Acceptable]

Hi guys, I'm quite new to the world of leatherwork and am hoping to make some belts as holiday presents for family and friends.

I made a 1.5" belt using 9-10 oz Horween CXL, but was recently told that CXL is not the ideal leather for even casual belts because the leather stretches.

Someone recommended I look into Hermann Oak and Wickett and Craig vegetable-tanned leathers.

I managed to purchase a 9-10 oz strip of Hermann Oak Bridle (not the English Bridle I don't think) and 9-10 oz Wickett and Craig Bridle.

I just have a few questions:

1. Compared to CXL, the two vegtanned leathers were both extremely stiff and almost cardboard-like. Is this normal?
2. Is it appropriate to use Lexol conditioner for both the two vegtan leathers and also CXL? Will Lexol help soften the two vegtan leathers?
3. Out of the Hermann Oak and W&C offerings, which of their line of leathers is the optimal leather for making belts?

Thanks a lot!

[JLSleather]

Just FYI, without going clear into that, english bridle is also "veg tanned".

If you're going to tool or stamp the belt, then go with carving leather (sometimes called skirting, or tooling leather). If you are looking for a great belt that will look nice and wear basically forever, go with the english bridle.

As always, keep in mind not all leathers are equal. Wickett / Craigs "formula" might not be the same as someone else's, so "english bridle" from one may not be like the next.

One more consideration.. it would be very difficult to dye the bridle leather. So either purchase that in the color you want, or get the skirting leather to color it yourself.

[Acceptable]

Just FYI, without going clear into that, english bridle is also "veg tanned".

If you're going to tool or stamp the belt, then go with carving leather (sometimes called skirting, or tooling leather). If you are looking for a great belt that will look nice and wear basically forever, go with the english bridle.

As always, keep in mind not all leathers are equal. Wickett / Craigs "formula" might not be the same as someone else's, so "english bridle" from one may not be like the next.

One more consideration.. it would be very difficult to dye the bridle leather. So either purchase that in the color you want, or get the skirting leather to color it yourself.

Thanks for the answer!

I won't be tooling/stamping/carving or dyeing the leather.

The pieces I received were labelled as just "Bridle" and not "English Bridle." There are descriptions on HO and W&C's websites describing the qualities of each, but I don't really understand what the difference between them are.

[Art]

If you are not making the belts for cc then it is way easier to just order belt blanks from Weaver leather (get a wholesale account). I made a belt out of black dyed belt blank from Weaver that I am still using, almost daily, 10 years later. Now, I won't guarantee what the TLF stuff will be, but the Weaver is excellent. As far as stiffness, you want a belt that way, at least I do, cause I never know when a 649 Smith will be hanging on it. They do get a little more supple as time and a few coats of conditioner (Pecard's) pass over them.

For custom and ccw belts, the Wickett & Craig English Bridle or Belt Latigo is the trick. We slit along the back and get excellent quality and yield.

The difference between Bridle and "English Bridle" is pretty much zilch. Pick it up and feel it, buy what you want. Some of the harness leather is pretty oily, not something you want in a belt due to staining.

Art

[CustomDoug]

I agree that there's not much difference between Bridle and English Bridle - though it originated in England and so they tend to be a little possessive of the name. That's probably understandable though since folks tend to use the words "English Bridle" when it's not actually from there. The English would (supposedly) be still using specific organic matter, barks, etc that are native and traditional to their area. And it might create a slightly better bridle leather.. but that's subjective. I have noticed though that the true English Bridle tends to be waxier than the other forms of it, as delivered. It can look quite "milky" before use. It's meant to be scrubbed with a horse hair brush, to re-work the waxes in.

Doug C

[byggyns]

For utility / casual belts, latigo is great. Before I started leatherworking, I bought my belts from an amish leather shop. The belts are a little stiff and thick for dress belts. The latigo, like the bridle, cannot be dyed after it comes out of the tannery. The waxes in the leather make for a great, long-lasting belt. I am wearing one right now that I've owned and worn regularly for over 12 years.

It always used to fascinate me when I watched the amish guy pull the side of leather off the shelf, cut the belt strip, then finish the belt right in front of me.

Edited December 11, 2015 by byggyns

[OLDNSLOW]

to sort of ask another question and not to jack the thread, it seems like it is a little tough to set up an account with weaver if I am not mistaken, it seems like they want to you to have not only a business license but a tax I D from the IRS as well as a resellers permit from the state you are in, seems like an awful lot for someone that might be doing part time or as a hobby, please clarify if I am wrong.

Thanks

O n S

[Art]

You can get a Tax id (employer id) from the IRS and a retail sales and use tax license, and a business name from the state in about 15 minutes online. Cost is about $20 or so. I ain't holding your hand, this is EZ.

Art

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Weaver has a retail site on-line for the non-wholesale customers. The reason for the hoops to jump through for the wholesale account, is that if you are not in business, then you should not be buying wholesale. That's the (well, one) difference between professional and hobby. Imo, it has long been way too easy for any Tom, Dick and Harry to buy wholesale in this industry. If you spend the bucks to get established as a business and jump through all the hoops and BS that we as businesses have to do, take the leap and quit your day-job to go full time knowing you might well fall on your ass, then you are entitled to wholesale status. If you are doing a bit of hobby work for cash under the table after your regular job, then you are not entitled to wholesale status. I know I might step on some toes here and I mean no disrespect to anyone in particular nor to those doing this as a hobby; everyone starts out pretty much the same way, and I was no exception. But it gripes me that folks who are not full time in this business, not collecting and turning in sales tax, not reporting the income on their 1040, expect wholesale treatment.

[OLDNSLOW]

WELL, I didn't mean to pee in any one's Wheaties, and have half of the requirement for an account, however as a self employed person there really isn't a need for a federal I D number when a person can use their SS #, and I haven't paid attention in a while but I think there might be a few states that do not charge a sales tax, so that being the case if I am correct, then it is difficult to comply with all of their requirements to be able to buy whole sale vs retail. And being that they are in business then they should know that, and being it is internet sales, unless they feel that all should give to the likes of OBO and Bernie Sanders there is usually no sales tax attached to the sales anyway. It is like telling someone to create a corporation because they are protected by the corporate umbrella, when if fact that is false. But I am sure that all of you know that as well!! But there are those that feel that is should be difficult for anyone to enter in to a new venture primarily because it might have an affect on their own sales, what they fail to realize is that there is enough work for everyone and for several reasons. One of the reasons is that if it was really successful everybody with the talent to do it would be doing it. And for everyone that entered the field today there are probably several others that have failed. This isn't my 1st rodeo and probably be my last and as one of you pointed out, we are welcome to fail on any given day.

Edited December 13, 2015 by OLDNSLOW