Glues

[thunter9]

has any one used the new water base glue by renia aquilim

[thunter9]

I hear the saddle makers are using it some ? Montana leather [ McPherson leather ] says it works.

[electrathon]

Good, but not as good as the solvent based. Smells better.

[Art]

Renia Aquilim 315 is pretty good. However, using a screwdriver to start and a bit of tenacity, I can get it apart. It doesn't come apart easily, but doesn't tear the leather too much either. I was using a test piece of W&C English Bridle. There is a lot of oil in English Bridle. I did another test with W&C English Bridle but mixed 5% to 10% (kind of a guesstimate) Aquilim =300= Hardener/Crosslinker in with the Aquilim 315. This combination is pretty solid and maybe I can eventually get it apart with more tools than a screwdriver. I wouldn't use the Crosslinker on everything as the regular bond is plenty tough, even if a very determined guy with a screwdriver can defeat the bond. The 315 doesn't smell so it doesn't need fume extraction in the shop (as if any of us go that route). Being water based, it needs to be left open longer to tack-up, 20 to 30 minutes; and it isn't all that handy with wet leather. When dry it is somewhat water resistant, but for almost waterproof (never say never) I use the =300= Crosslinker.

So, am I pitching my can of Colle de Cologne or Master MaxBond (same stuff)? No, but I'll try to use Aquilim 315 wherever I can and probably end up buying smaller cans of Colle de Cologne and bigger bottles of Aquilim 315.

A special note on the Aquilim 315. Use silicone brushes. Renia dealers sell them but they are ungodly expensive. The nice thing is you leave the brush in the cement (the T-S Boy German containers are excellent, the Chinese ones leak). The silicone brushes can be left out of the cement and are pretty easily cleaned, you flex the bristles and pick the rubber out with an awl. Once you get it started, it pretty much comes out in a clump. Brushes from Rockler work (they have bigger bristles though) and are way cheaper. The smaller Rockler brushes are great for getting into small or tight places.

Art

[24VOLTS]

I like the Aquilim 315. I use the silicone brush. I purchased them from Lisa Sorrel. The brush is good. I let the glue dry and wipe off the brush with my fingers.. I like the Aquilim because of the no fumes/smell and it does not stain the leather. I found that barges will stain the leather if it gets on other parts of the leather. I have used weld wood in the green can. It works good but I find that it does not last long especially when it gets warm. I end up pulling it out of the glue pot in one big clump.

I have never used Master Maxbond.

Does it last long on the bench?

[thunter9]

iuse to use barge super speed then masters bought them out and quit making it. went to masters but always prefered the barge. old dogs and all.

[Art]

Use the Renia Thinner on the Master MaxBond, or just get Colle de Cologne (or Ortec for longer open time) with the same thinner and go all Renia. You have to use a lot of glue to not have thinner around.

Art

[thunter9]

iworked in the field for 35 years and only 6 years ago i found out about solvent #2 you can use it to wipe down leather to remove glue and if you don't get to agressive it won'ty stain the leather . we use it to thin the renia regular glue .even on cream cow after the glues gone it would dry and not leave a stain.

[Art]

Renia Aquilim 315 is pretty good. However, using a screwdriver to start and a bit of tenacity, I can get it apart. It doesn't come apart easily, but doesn't tear the leather too much either. I was using a test piece of W&C English Bridle. There is a lot of oil in English Bridle. I did another test with W&C English Bridle but mixed 5% to 10% (kind of a guesstimate) Aquilim =300= Hardener/Crosslinker in with the Aquilim 315. This combination is pretty solid and maybe I can eventually get it apart with more tools than a screwdriver. I wouldn't use the Crosslinker on everything as the regular bond is plenty tough, even if a very determined guy with a screwdriver can defeat the bond. The 315 doesn't smell so it doesn't need fume extraction in the shop (as if any of us go that route). Being water based, it needs to be left open longer to tack-up, 20 to 30 minutes; and it isn't all that handy with wet leather. When dry it is somewhat water resistant, but for almost waterproof (never say never) I use the =300= Crosslinker.

So, am I pitching my can of Colle de Cologne or Master MaxBond (same stuff)? No, but I'll try to use Aquilim 315 wherever I can and probably end up buying smaller cans of Colle de Cologne and bigger bottles of Aquilim 315.

A special note on the Aquilim 315. Use silicone brushes. Renia dealers sell them but they are ungodly expensive. The nice thing is you leave the brush in the cement (the T-S Boy German containers are excellent, the Chinese ones leak). The silicone brushes can be left out of the cement and are pretty easily cleaned, you flex the bristles and pick the rubber out with an awl. Once you get it started, it pretty much comes out in a clump. Brushes from Rockler work (they have bigger bristles though) and are way cheaper. The smaller Rockler brushes are great for getting into small or tight places.

Art

Update,

I just looked harder at the two pieces of W&C English Bridle I pulled apart. Well, indeed, one side of leather was still glued to the other. So the leather failed, not the Renia Aquilim 315. Like Bullwinkle used to say when he pulled the Rhinoceros out of the hat, "Gee, guess I don't know my own strength". There were a few very small spots where the leather tearing went the other way.

Art