Members dikman Posted January 5, 2016 Members Report Posted January 5, 2016 Sounds like you did well with finding that lot. Whilst I used metal to make my housings, there's no reason that you couldn't use wood to hold the bearings. Like I said, it's a lot of messing around, but I consider it a challenge. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members dikman Posted January 6, 2016 Members Report Posted January 6, 2016 (edited) OLDNSLOW, this is a photo of the latest one I built (just for ideas?). I used a piece of black pipe that was fractionally bigger than the bearings, cut a slot down it with an angle grinder and welded lugs to it so that it can be tightened up on to the bearings. The vertical pieces have slots cut to give some adjustment and one piece is welded to the pipe and the other to the bottom piece. The shaft was turned down in two steps, one for the bearings and the other for the 3/4" needed for the pulleys (the big pulley was too big so I had to turn a sleeve to fit the shaft). This was a bit of messing around, but I was trying to use whatever I had lying around, so cost was $0. The large pulley, coupled with two small ones (one on the motor) had a dramatic effect on the speed!!! Edited January 6, 2016 by dikman Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members OLDNSLOW Posted January 6, 2016 Author Members Report Posted January 6, 2016 I like the way you did that, I have already begun to put everything together and in the event it doesn't work out like I hope it will I will need to use something like you have there, so I might borrow that idea if mine doesn't work out. Thanks Quote
Uwe Posted January 6, 2016 Report Posted January 6, 2016 Wow, respect, Mr. dikman! You got mad maker skills and access to cool machinery. There seems to be much emphasis in many designs (including mine so far) to make sure that the shaft holding the two pulleys does NOT move, ever (other than rotate around the shaft's axis). I'm contemplating a version where the shaft is not fixed at all but moving freely on a track or pivot arm. I think we only need the shaft holding the two pulleys to not twist/yaw. Two opposing belts should hold it in place just fine. Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members dikman Posted January 6, 2016 Members Report Posted January 6, 2016 Thanks Uwe, but the final product is pretty rough when you get up close! I figured it doesn't need to be a work-of-art as long as it's functional. I've noticed that you seem to have a knack for engineering some pretty nice things, so I'm interested in what you can come up with regarding pulley reducers. Mine is based on pretty standard procedures for making these things (fixed/clamped bearings, as you point out), but if you can come up with a "floating" type it may prove better, as there's less chance of clamping things out of alignment. The interesting thing with this one is the speed. I'm using a "standard" Consew clutch motor, and the needle speed is now very slow and feathering the clutch makes very little difference. This is on my post-bed Singer, with wheel rather than feet, and I just managed to snap a needle most convincingly while trying it on 1/4" leather!!! This machine does not like thickish leather, I've found, the roller wheel seems prone to causing a slight needle deflection on anything but thin leather. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members OLDNSLOW Posted January 7, 2016 Author Members Report Posted January 7, 2016 mine is going to look totally Cracker jack box stuff in compared to this stuff, I may have to rethink what I am doing before doing it. SHESH. Quote
Members dikman Posted January 7, 2016 Members Report Posted January 7, 2016 Don't worry about it, mate. My first effort was an open steel frame, sandwiching the bearings between plates, and a wooden pulley I made myself. There's a photo somewhere on one of my threads about the Singer (51K59). Looked pretty crude, but it worked! We all have to start somewhere, and it's only by making things that we learn (and get more ideas!). You've got one big advantage over me when I started - you've picked up pulleys, shafts and bearings so have lots of stuff to play with. And remember, as long as it works for you is all that matters. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members SARK9 Posted January 7, 2016 Members Report Posted January 7, 2016 Here are some more reducer pictures of some I make for my own machines....mostly, the main thing I find convenient is to have that telescoping mount for aiding the belt tension issues you can have when matching 2 belt lengths. Also, as many have noticed, you need to have the reducer pulley axle's centerline a bit behind your machine's hinge pivot point.....otherwise you can't tilt the head back normally without loosening the belt. I use an adapter plate to move the motor's mount point back and slightly to the right of the original holes to offset for the extra thickness of the pulley. I attach the plate using the existing holes in the table. Works very well. -DC One of the other multipliers as mounted: -DC Quote Machines: Juki LU-563, Consew 206-RB5, Singer 20U33, Pfaff 481, Mitsubishi CU-865-22, Consew 29B, Rebadged Juki LU-562, Mitsubishi LS2-180, Seiko SK-6, Juki LG-158-1
Members dikman Posted January 7, 2016 Members Report Posted January 7, 2016 Now that is nice work! Yep, two of mine I can't tilt back. One I have to loosen the reducer to slacken the belt (no big deal) and the other (post-bed) machine doesn't have hinges and is too tall to tilt anyway, so I just lift it out bodily!. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members gt2ride Posted January 8, 2016 Members Report Posted January 8, 2016 sark9 I like your reducer. did you mill the big pulley from flat stock? If so what thickness did you use. would love to see a measured drawing. I have more lathes then I do sewing machines. I have seven sewing machines. Love to hear from you gt Quote
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