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alexitbe

Remove Old Oil And Rust Without Removing The Paint... Any Ideas

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I'm going to talk about this product one last time renaissance wax polish was invented in the 50's by scientists at the British museum at the palace or some such they wanted something that worked better than what was being used. this is what they came up with. they kept it for over 20 years before they let anyone know about it. the use it on most everything. leather medal glass paintings paper I hate saying this but you need to at least look it up if no try it or I feel your just narrow minded . some one here says if we don't share what we learn we will know nothing I feel if we as men never shared we'd still be in the caves here in the USA its used at the Smithsonian .NRA and several colleges and museums around the country so get over it

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I'm sorry, thunter, are you referring to me? If so, I'm well aware of Renaissance Wax, and have been for many years. It was primarily developed for coating blades - swords, knives etc - for display purposes in museums. It is sometimes used by knifemakers/bladesmiths.Some museums have used it to try and preserve leather book bindings, but have found that it can cause long-term problems on leather. On metal, however, it does work well. If you're suggesting to use it to try and remove rust stains, then it's worth a try, I guess (although it does tend to be on the pricey side) but I doubt it will be any better than a good quality wax-based polish.

It is intended to be a preservative, not a cleaner (although it does contain white spirits, a solvent).

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They make a rust remover

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Yep, although they call it a "de-corroder". After a bit of searching I found that the active ingredient is Citric Acid, which can be bought pretty cheap at supermarkets etc. Nothing special about it, I use Citric Acid to clean my brass cartridges in my tumbler.

The main problem, in this case, is that it is a very slow process because it's such a mild cleaner. It's pretty difficult to get it to stay put on vertical surfaces so it can react with the rust, generally these sort of cleaners work best when the object can be immersed in the cleaner.

Edited by dikman

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Well this must be the longest thread I have ever had.... :clapping::)

Anyway, the machine is stil not here, but when it arrives I really want to try coke... So will try that just for fun and then try Darren's suggestion of wire wool and kerosene..if not then WD40....

Thanks, I have learnt something, which hopefully I can use in the future, because I am sucker for machines I don't need... :)

Cheers

Alex

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Alex, I doubt if the coke will do anything, but by all means try it and let us know. (They took all the "good" stuff out of coke years ago, now it's only flavoured sugar water). As Darren said, 0000 steel wool, which is pretty mild stuff, used with kero or WD40, might be as good as you can do. If it doesn't do much with the stains at least it will remove any oily coating.

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At least it isn't on fire............yet.......

image.jpg

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Anyway, when it arrives I really want to try coke... So will try that just for fun and then try Darren's suggestion of wire wool and kerosene.

Cheers

Alex

Alex, I doubt if the coke will do anything, but by all means try it and let us know.

It will make you sew a heck of a lot faster......

Edited by TinkerTailor

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It will make you sew a heck of a lot faster.....

Bugger! I spent so long making the pulley reducer... :(:)

Am still waiting for the sewing machine....

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So, it arrived and I did try the coke for about 20 mins.... By covering the machine with a cloth and then soaking it with Coke. It seemed to work, to be honest. However, I was in a hurry and decided to use Kerosene and my girlfriend's exfoliating glove.... oops :)

Before:

post-57035-0-80931700-1452623396_thumb.j

post-57035-0-47150000-1452623451_thumb.j

post-57035-0-43409600-1452623522_thumb.j

post-57035-0-33957200-1452623603_thumb.j

After:

post-57035-0-54631400-1452623669_thumb.j

post-57035-0-23834600-1452623712_thumb.j

post-57035-0-27404100-1452623729_thumb.j

So thank you very much for your suggestions... I have learnt something that I know I will use often. I am really pleased with the results.

Cheers

Alex

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Looks great! I'll have to try the Coca Cola approach on my next project.

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yes, Uwe... I really do think it works.... My main concern was keeping the sewing machine in contact with the coke for as long as posible...hence covering it in a cloth. If I could have let it stand in a bowl of the stuff, I am sure, in the morning it would have been clean... I think coke is very cheap your side of the pond, so it is realistic filling a bucket...

Cheers

Alex

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Anybody else wondering just what's in coke besides sugar and water? :huh: (I think I'll stick to drinking beer).

Personally, I reckon it's the exfoliating glove that's the key :cheers: .

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Well in the early days of Coca Cola, just a touch of real cocaine gave Coca Cola the desired medicinal effect and pick-me up. Those days are long gone. I think it's the acids or preservatives that do the cleaning. I remember people experimenting by putting a small piece of red meat in Coca Cola and the meat would be gone/dissolved after just a few days.

I'm not dunking/submerging my machine in Coca Cola . I don't want the stuff to get in places I don't want it. It may also dissolve my timing belt, who knows.

Edited by Uwe

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A doctor friend of mine had a special needs patient that had a feeding tube and it was badly clogged. They flew in a really high priced ivy league specialist in feeding tubes, who went to the pop machine, bought a coke and injected it into the feeding tube. 10 mins later the clog was clear. The doctor apparently then said that coke was the strongest food grade acid/ solvent there is. He then collected his cheque and went home.

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The doctor apparently then said that coke was the strongest food grade acid/ solvent there is.

Good for the teeth to, no doubt :blink: .

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Looking at those pictures all I see is oil residue not rust.

yes, Uwe... I really do think it works.... My main concern was keeping the sewing machine in contact with the coke for as long as posible...hence covering it in a cloth. If I could have let it stand in a bowl of the stuff, I am sure, in the morning it would have been clean... I think coke is very cheap your side of the pond, so it is realistic filling a bucket...

Cheers

Alex

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Glad the Coco-cola worked for you, it has for me many times ;)

It's the Phosphoric acid...

Bingo, but why go the Coca-Cola route, you can get aqueous solutions and even gels (for vertical surfaces). It even gets at rust in deep pits and turns them into little parkerized areas. Coke or parkerizing or Phosphoric Acid only works on steel without nickel or chrome. Personally, I use Evapo-Rust which does a good job and can be had at Wally World and Advance Auto among others. On badly rusted things, it may take 12 hours, but hell, I got time.

Art

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Bingo, but why go the Coca-Cola route, you can get aqueous solutions and even gels (for vertical surfaces). It even gets at rust in deep pits and turns them into little parkerized areas. Coke or parkerizing or Phosphoric Acid only works on steel without nickel or chrome. Personally, I use Evapo-Rust which does a good job and can be had at Wally World and Advance Auto among others. On badly rusted things, it may take 12 hours, but hell, I got time.

Art

I also use evaporust. I used to use electrolysis, but the evaporust works in most cases just as good if not better, and there is no power needed, and no off-gassing concerns.

Chemistry is your friend.

Just a side tip, you can dissolve aluminum and not steel with lye and do the opposite with alum salts. The alum salts can eat away steel broken bolts in aluminum, and i use the lye trick to get stuck aluminum seatposts out of a steel bicycle frame. The trick is contact time.

Here is a good video posted today on getting out broken bolts this way. The crucial bit is how Ave increases the contact time:

He has a really funny channel.

I think you may like this canuck, Art.

Viewers be forwarned, he uses some minor foul language humerously.

Edited by TinkerTailor

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Here is a good video posted today on getting out broken bolts this way. The crucial bit is how Ave increases the contact time:

He has a really funny channel.

I think you may like this canuck, Art.

Viewers be forwarned, he uses some minor foul language humerously.

Thanks Tinker Tailor....

That guy has a great sense of humour... My girlfriend wondered why I had a stupid grin on my face... well different from the normal one :)...

...ALthough I have to listen hard to what he's saying as he has a strange accent... Is it Canadian? Anyway, I have subsribed to his channel.. .It looks fun.

Alex

Edited by alexitbe

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Exagerated west coast canadian. He makes up alot of words. Silicone con-carne is silicone caulking and if glue chooched, it means it worked. He also throws in some slang quebecois french for good measure.

And every video ends with a play on the saying "keep your stick on the ice"

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