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Posted (edited)

Hi everyone. My first post and I've got some questions.

I'm looking to make my first gun belt. I've got a pair of Uberti Cattlemen .357 revolvers that I'm wanting a new holster rig for. I've been looking up different patterns and things and I've found a nice Slim Jim holster pattern that I'll follow. I'm wanting a right hand straight draw and cross draw. The patterns are in the set. My problem though is with the belt itself. I can't seem to find much help on what to do about the belt. What I'm wanting is a two layer belt with continuous cartridge loops. I can't seem to find anything on how to do that. I don't have the money to spare on videos either.

I've never made one before what I'm thinking is that before I glue the two layers of the belt together that I can either sew the loops on to the outside layer, or I can cut a series of slots and weave a thin strip through. Then, either way, I can glue the two layers together and sew.

Which way would you suggest?

What thickness leathers?

Do I sew it flat or on a curve? How?

What tools would I need? I have a basic set. I think the only thing I'd need would be an oblong punch.

I figured that what I'd do is pre-punch the outer layer first and then once glued use my awl to punch the inner layer. Is that the right thing to do?

Oh, I can't carve either so I would entertain suggestions on dressing it up a bit. I'm looking at a brown color scheme.

Thanks in advance.

Dorado

Edited by Dorado
  • Members
Posted (edited)

If you want the rig to carry that cannon, . . . better do the belt right. Yes, . . . it needs to be curved, . . . there is an excellent video series from John Bianchi, . . . he goes through it.



Basically, . . . if you can think of a bow where the string is 6 inches from the bow at the middle, . . . that is the curve you need to make. That keeps it from dropping to his ankles every time he sneezes.



I make only dual layer belts, . . . two pieces using contact cement and then sewn together, . . . 7/8 oz veggie tan.



Tongue is also double layer, . . . same leather. Buckle holder is 7/8 single layer.



Belt loops are 4/5 or 5/6 depending on what is there when I need it.



I use a single hole looping system, . . . the loop comes through the hole, . . . around the cartridge, . . . and back out the exact same hole. This is ONLY done on the outside piece of the belt, . . . NOT on both pieces.



There is an example on my website, . . . but it is a money belt, . . . made a bit differently than the standard gun belt and it is not curved.



Gun belts are not that hard to do, . . . just time consuming.



Oh, . . . final point. Make it a practice to add 4 inches to the length of the belt the guy wears, . . . for a hip holster. That way it fits, . . . if you don't, . . . you'll re-make it most likely.



May God bless,


Dwight


Edited by Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Thanks Dwight,

So if I'm reading this right:

Curve is necessary. Do I cut the belt in a curve or is the belt cut straight and the curve comes as I glue on the inner liner?

For the loops you'd recommend punching on hole per loop and weaving the thinner leather around a bullet. Right? Somewhere between 4 and 6 oz leather.

Perhaps I should look into getting a pattern for a gun belt and follow that.

I'm thinking I'd like a 2" or 2 1/4" belt, I have a 2 1/2".

Edited by Dorado
  • Members
Posted (edited)

When the belt is laid down on the table, . . . loops up, . . . flat, . . . it should look like a big smile (or frown depending on which ends are up).

My 40 inch belt has a 6 inch curve if you draw a line left to right, . . . point to point, . . . then measure from the line to the belt.

Both pieces are cut, . . . curved, . . . loops put on outside piece, . . . then glued together. If you are thinking curve like a curve around a barrel, . . . you are thinking of the wrong curve. It's the curve you get from a smiley face that you want in the belt. That is what keeps it up around the cowboys hips when he sneezes wearing a hog leg.

I pretty much make all of mine 2 1/2 wide, . . . everyone seems to like that the best. I've made some 3 inch, . . . they are a bit wide.

I made my template, . . . using a string, . . . pencil, . . . and a needle. Needle is the center of the arc, . . . string holds the pencil, . . . make a big arc for it. Then I cut the template, . . . made markings on it to make a 34, 35, 36, 37, etc inch belt just by sliding one end around.

You might look down in the holster and belt forum on here, . . . some excellent tutorials there.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • Members
Posted

Alright so cut belt with a smile to it. That helps. I'll have to wait until after my next payday to get the leather but I may go ahead and get the tools and hardware I'll be needing.

  • Members
Posted

Dorado, if you want to add a bit of embellishment, try some basic stamping. Once you work out a suitable pattern it can look pretty impressive.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

Dorado, if you want to add a bit of embellishment, try some basic stamping. Once you work out a suitable pattern it can look pretty impressive.

That's not a bad idea. What I was thinking of is since I'm making lined slim jim holsters and belt I'd dye the lining and cartridge loops a darker color than the outer leather, and then on the holsters I'd add a belt around them sort of what is found on Mexican loop with a decorative concho in the middle. I don't think I have any stamps left. I gave them all to my brother. I'll look though, I might be able to come up with a border pattern.

  • Members
Posted

I've got the outer layer of the holsters cut. I'm using a 8-9 oz leather that I had. I'll be lining it with 2-3 oz. So far they've come out good. I'm stuck waiting on some tools before I continue though.

I'll be ordering some 7-8 oz for the belt and I'll get a strip of 4-5 oz for the bullet loops. As well as the holster lining.

As far as the belt itself is concerned, I'll be using my current belt as a rough pattern. It's 2 1/2" ranger style belt, It fits just fine I'm on the middle notch which is where I'm supposed to be. My current one is still comfortable, just faded from the sun and has gotten a bit beat up. I'm just wanting something different and prettier.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted

I think I figured out the color I want. At least it's the color I've got and it looks good. I've got the holsters cut and the belt loops sewn on, I'm waiting for the lining leather to arrive. The holsters are made from 9oz veg tan and will be lined with 3-4 oz. I'm planning on dying the lining and cartridge loops a different color from the main holster color. I'd like to post a picture of what I have so far. They are nowhere near being completed but are looking good so far.

First picture is without the flash, second is with.

IMG_1903_zps0w2xjhdh.jpg

IMG_1904_zpsx6vwagtu.jpg

Once I get them lined and sewn I can sand the edges and fix that roughness.

So, What do y'all think?

  • Members
Posted

After throwing away a few holsters, . . . I finally figured out that if I glued, . . . sanded, . . . gouged, . . . THEN stitched, . . . it would work out better for me.

You may not be able to get the distance from stitch to edge as even all the way around by doing it your way.

But we learn as we go along.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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