Draft Horse Tree

[blue62]

I wanted to build a saddle to fit one of my drafts, pumpkin, finding a tree to properly fit a 1800 pound horse was a challenge, I talked with my tree Maker,we did a fitting and he suggested that I widen a tree to fit, so that is what I did, we started with one of his production slick forks and added four inches to the width, now I need to put the bars and seat on and do another trial fit.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Blue, I am confused, are you making the tree, or is your tree maker making it? When I make a saddle, I take templates of the horse the saddle is intended to be for, and send them, along with a few pics of the horse, to my tree maker. He makes the tree for me, to fit the horse. In the last 20 years or so, I have never had a tree not fit. I have made saddles for everything from arabs to drafts, and some really weird crosses like Standardbred/arab with no problem.

Bob

[blue62]

Bob, I'm modifying the tree myself,with the help of my tree Maker, mostly because I wanted to learn how to build trees, we tried several different trees that he has as regular production trees, but none of them fit well on the withers, so as a experiment I wanted to widen it so it set properly, to allow freedom of movement in the shoulder, otherwise it sat to far back and was restricting movement at the back of the shoulder blade,
So I guess it would be the same as sending a model of the horses back to the tree Maker, I have the benefit of being close to a tree Maker who is willing to teach and I have the necessary skills to do the work.

I thought the process might be of interest to somebody.

Thanks,
John

[kseidel]

I am seeing some real red flags here. The horse pictured is not that hard to fit and does not require a tree with a 10+" gullet width. Flatter bar angles, yes, somewhat wider gullet widths, yes, but not that extreme. You stated that the standard size tree "sat to far back and was restricting movement at the back of the shoulder blade." The tree is supposed to sit behind the scapula. If it sits over the scapula it will restrict shoulder movement, and cause a sore horse. (and many other problems)

In addition, if you are just cutting a tree swell and adding 2" blocks on either side of the horn, that is an unacceptable method for building the tree. Without lamination running different directions throughout the swell, it will not be strong enough and will break.

Please understand, I mean no offense, but I am seeing some conflicting things happening here.

Respectfully.

Keith

[blue62]

I think I will go back to my hole, and study anatomy more I believe I didn't convey my problem with fit properly,

Keith what do you mean by having the laminations in different directions, like how plywood is constructed?

Thanks

[kseidel]

Most tree swells or forks are made either from a single piece of wood, or are constructed with 3/4" boards, laminated together crossing several directions to achieve the stock thickness. The crossed grain and different laminations combine to achieve enough strength from twist and stress from many directions. Many makers also use a layer of marine grade plywood thru the center for additional strength.

[blue62]

Thanks Keith, that is what I thought, this experiment is constructed that way, and it is pinned on each side with 3/8 dowels in four different directions to help restore the strength, like I said, I'm trying to learn something new, if it works, great if not I had a little more wood working experience.

Thanks again