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to those who make holsters, what size belt holes do you typically make and where did you buy the punch? (assuming you use a punch) I have tried by hand and it looks like crap.

thanks!

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1.5 inch punch...Springfield Leather

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hmm.. I would have thought to go a bit bigger, I would have thought it would be too snug to get an 1.5" belt through easily

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1.5" from Weaver. Works pretty good, though I haven't had this one long enough to tell you how long it holds an edge.

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They make different sizes...1.5 inch is what I have the most need for...this is the typical size of a belt that can fit through the belt loops on jeans (or there abouts).

The belt holes do end up a little bit larger after you wet mold the leather, bevel your edges and then burnish them...the size may increase about a 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch...I've had no complaints yet that the belt would not fit through the holes...remember that a store bought belt is about a 1/16 to 1/8 inch shy of the advertised measurement in with.

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I was using a 1.5 inch oblong from Tandy and it was definitely too tight for a 1.5 inch belt. To fix this I had a custom mallet punch made at Texas Custom Dies.

I specified 1.7 x .38 inches for my pancake holster belt loops. They took less than a week and it was only $80... The quality is awesome and works perfectly.

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You don't want it to slide through loosely. I wouldn't own a holster where the slots are wider than the belt. No, I'm not giving the long version of that.. just that I won't own one and i won't sell one. I don't put 1 3/4" slots for a 1 1/2" belt.

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I use a 1.25" round punch and a 1.00" wood chisel. First I punch my end holes with the round punch and then the chisel between. If I need a longer belt slot I use a wider chisel. Since I already had the chisels it made sense for me to go that route.

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I got mine from Texas Custom Dies. I had it made to fit a one and a half inch belt, so the punch is a little bit bigger so the belt can go through easily. The width is a little bit wider than one quarter inch so it can accommodate a heavy duty double layer gun belt. It cost me around $80, shipped. It is the best thing I have bought for Leather working yet. I had been drilling two holes using a forstner bit and then trying to connect them, but rarely did it turn out to my satisfaction. I did specify to Texas Custom Dies that I would be going through two layers of seven to eight ounce Leather and occasionally two layers of eight to nine once Leather. After reading through other posts in this forum I believe making that distinction to them is important for the angle they put on the tool.

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I'm considering the 1 5/8" punch. i think that might be a happy medium. just slightly over 1.5" but not way over

http://springfieldleather.com/16571/Punch%2COblong%2C%23151%2C1-5-8%22/

Edited by tardis86

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I'm considering the 1 5/8" punch. i think that might be a happy medium. just slightly over 1.5" but not way over

http://springfieldleather.com/16571/Punch%2COblong%2C%23151%2C1-5-8"/

My only question would be how wide is the slot.

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Why are you boys determined you need such a wide slot?

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I use a 1.25" round punch and a 1.00" wood chisel. First I punch my end holes with the round punch and then the chisel between. If I need a longer belt slot I use a wider chisel. Since I already had the chisels it made sense for me to go that route.

Same but I use a 1.5" skiving knife to cut between.

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According to springfield the slot is 1/4" wide. would that be big enough?

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If a customer orders a pancake holster and he wears a hd gun belt, I will make the slots wider. That heavy belt will kink a holster and/or add some discomfort. I will, sometimes, bevel/ramp two sides of each slot. This allows the belt to lay flat and the holster will follow. I also make the slots around 1 3/4" long to make sure that 1 1/2" belt will go through the slot. No complaints and repeat customers. Some of my customers are serious about the CC holsters and like the "mods".
.

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just what seems to work with 1/4 inch gun belts.........have been punching holes and chiseling and like the 3/8 best

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According to springfield the slot is 1/4" wide. would that be big enough?

I'd say probably, if you're going to burnish the inside of the hole. Even if you're not burnishing you might be able to squeeze a 1/4" thick belt through. If you're making them for other people (who have 1/4" thick belts), they might not enjoy the extra friction and effort it *might* take to feed the belt through. I've never used the Springfield punch, so this is my best guess. If you try it, please report back the results.

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I'm considering the 1 5/8" punch. i think that might be a happy medium. just slightly over 1.5" but not way over

http://springfieldleather.com/16571/Punch%2COblong%2C%23151%2C1-5-8%22/

I have one similar and don't use it. The taper leaves a hole that is narrower on the back and wider on the front. With the punch and skivving knife I get a slot that is more vertical front to back. Also found it hard to drive through the holster. I use one similar to this, might even be this one I just don't remember.

http://springfieldleather.com/24870/Knife%2CLeather%2CCSO%2CSz-1/

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I have a C.S. Osborne 1 3/4" oblong punch which punches a slot 1/4" wide and seems to be perfect for me. My belt is 1 3/4" wide and fits perfectly in the 1 3/4" slot, a heavier duty belt might be an issue and need a wider slot, I haven't tried it yet.

Stu

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For 1.5" belts, I have a Texas Custom Dies oblong punch that is 1-5/8" x 1/4", which has been fantastic. I haven't had any issues with the width of the slot only being 1/4" wide.

The majority of the orders I get are for 1.5" belts, but I still have to use other methods when someone orders a holster for a 1.25" or 1.75" belt. I've considered trying Weaver's oblong punches for those sizes, since I've been pleased with their other tools... but I haven't made up my mind yet. :)

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I use a 1.25" round punch and a 1.00" wood chisel. First I punch my end holes with the round punch and then the chisel between. If I need a longer belt slot I use a wider chisel. Since I already had the chisels it made sense for me to go that route.

I do this as well, punching two round holes (5/16" diameter) 1.5" apart on center. Then a 1.5" sharp wood chisel connects the two holes, hitting each hole tangent to the edge. Done carefully, this can make a pretty smooth, almost-finished slot. I then wrap a pen in fine grit sandpaper and give it a couple laps around the inside of the slot to smooth it up before burnishing. Like Fredo said, this is what I had laying around, so I skipped buying an oval slot punch. Good luck!

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