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Here are my two latest holsters.

Black one is a tooled pancake style for S&W Shield with matching mag. pouch...pretty straightforward using JLS' pattern.

Other is an avenger style with beavertail inlay for a 1911 Officer's Model (3.5" barrel). It was a little more challenging in that I had to modify a full-sized 1911 pattern. I added a sight guard to the original pattern. Could use a few little tweaks to make it perfect, namely I need to take another 1/4" off the bottom length and add a little more to the sweat guard.

Both are for my personal use. Have only made one other holster, so I wanted get comfortable with the process before offering anything up for sale. Next versions should be good to go. These were both hand stitched; I need to get more confidence in my sewing machine (and my own skills) to shorten up the construction time.

I gotta say, Jeff's (JLS Leather) patterns are pretty much right on the mark. Have worn these both around the house and in the car, and they carry very well. I made these essentially as range holsters (open carry), but they would work equally well as OWB concealed carry holsters.

Thanks for looking: any comments or constructive criticism is appreciated.

Rick

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Lookin' purdy good. Couple "tips" on the basketweave for what it's worth.. maybe personal preference....

I would use a smaller basket stamp - if you have one.

And, if guy wanneda git all fancy, a guy could draw a line on the pattern (first page showing the assembly) from the top of the slot to the top of the other slot. Then use that to draw a line 3/4" or 1" down from that. Then actually mark that line on your front panel and use it as a guide for your basket stamp. When you put the holster on, the basket design will be level ;)

Edited by JLSleather

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Bigpaws, I have a post elsewhere on this forum asking how to tan beaver tails. Will you be willing to share your knowledge with someone? Any help would be greatly appreciated with regard to method, materials, and personal thoughts.

I think I saw this post on trapperman. Nice Work!

Edited by whistler

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Jeff,

Ya know, I kept looking at the black holster and thinking that there was something just not quite right.....tried your suggestion and it really brought everything together. That's what's so great about this site. Folks that have done this stuff a few times are willing to share with us newbies....thanks for the tip. BTW, just finished an avenger style for the Shield based on your pattern and once again, it's right on the money.

BondoBob and Whistler,

Thanks for the comments.

Whistler, I can't give you much info. on tanning the tails as I buy them (from Sheridan Leather) already tanned. I will offer my experience with working it however: I love the stuff. It dyes very well, is really easy to shape, etc., and wears like iron. I have a set of bucking rolls that are at least 10 years old, and there is very little wear showing on them. Develops a pretty nice patina. You do have to split the tails down before use as the base is significantly thicker than the tip. All in all, it's a great inlay material...gives you texture without the worry of losing detail when wet forming vs. tooling.

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Wait.. what??#@#! I had TWO patterns that fit? Say it aint so .... :blush:

What happened on your stiffener, made it short?

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LOL! Funny you mention the stiffener....I kinda screwed up on the order of construction....forgot to sew the stiffener on until AFTER the rest of the holster was put together....what a b*tch to stitch that puppy. As you noticed, it ended up a little short. I thought about trimming the main holster back to meet the stiffener edge, but decided to leave well enough alone. Lesson learned: Take your time and THINK before you do.

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I've never forgot a step in any project. Tha's my story 'n' I'm stickin' to it ;)

Still, I would have made some fancy speech here about belt makers who don't seem to remember that the OUTSIDE layer needza be longer than the INSIDE layer when you wrapping it - unless you're stretching them together ...

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