Members charlescrawford Posted May 22, 2016 Author Members Report Posted May 22, 2016 Did anyone ever get anything figured out for a alum burnisher? Quote
Trox Posted May 23, 2016 Report Posted May 23, 2016 Professional Italian leather burnisher machines use metal burnisher bits. They use heating elements inside them. An advantage with metal is that is easy to clean after using wax. Stainless steel conduct very little heat, I think brass would be the best material. Aluminium will work too but not as good as brass will. I have a problem with pasting in links. You will see an example of such machine in this site Sieck.de then go to "belt manufacturing": Sieck type 709 H leather edge closing machine with heat. Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
RockyAussie Posted May 23, 2016 Report Posted May 23, 2016 Before going into leather goods manufacturing I was in the buis of shoe repairs.On our finisher machines (sands and polishes) they came with an attachment for burnishing in the edges of soles.They are made from steel and worked pretty well. As i have a lathe I made up one in Brass the sizes I was chasing and at first it was no good. I went back and looked at the big old steel ones and saw that there needs to be some small flats filed in to the circle to make it hammer a bit or hold the resin or polish. It then worked fine.The brass I used is about 1+1/4" dia and the 4 flats are about 2mm deep evenly opposite of course. I think most decent shoe repair shops would have one to check out If you need pics let me know. Regards Brian Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 24, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted May 24, 2016 I thought that was taken care of a while back. Where'd that guy go? I still haven't ruled out wooden burnishers, but what glue is used to stick 'em on the metal shaft? I suppose I could cross-pin 'em (and I might anyway) ... Started actually shopping a bit for lathes this afternoon. I've used a lot of 'em, just a matter of determining which is best suited to what I want to do (cost, space required, electrical connections, etc.). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members venator Posted May 24, 2016 Members Report Posted May 24, 2016 I'm currently pricing out getting 10 of these made in steel. I have a friend who's a machinist. I'll let you all know pricing once I get it. Quote
Trox Posted May 25, 2016 Report Posted May 25, 2016 JLSleather, you use epoxi. But remember to leave a little gap between the wood and the metal, because metal would expand with heat and make the wood Crack (fill the gap with epoxi glue), here is one I had made for a motor. Work very well, it's cocobolo wood. Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members venator Posted May 27, 2016 Members Report Posted May 27, 2016 So I got a quote back from my machinist. If enough people want them I could get a run done for $100usd each plus shipping. Aluminum burnishes with steel shanks in whatever shank diameter you want. Interest? Stu Quote
Members OLDNSLOW Posted May 27, 2016 Members Report Posted May 27, 2016 I think that , that price is just a bit high for the item JMOP Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 27, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted May 27, 2016 (edited) Yeah, that price seems extreme. Aluminum round stock is about $1 per inch (3/4" or 1" stock) and drill rod is nearly free.. so only cost would be the labor. I've stayed out of that so far since CNC machining would be the way to go -- and I haven't found one of those that is both affordable and worth owning. IF someone knew of a shop who was willing to run some of those after hours (if there is such a thing in manufacturing any more) then I could see $100 for the FIRST one, and more like $30 after the first one - and at $30, a guy could do pretty well. Assuming that a guy already had the drawing decided on, then you'd need to know the type of controller involved to write the code (Haas, Fanuc, etc...) I wonder if that guy I used to know is still working over at the college ... OH>.. and thanks, Trox Edited May 27, 2016 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members venator Posted May 27, 2016 Members Report Posted May 27, 2016 (edited) Well the quote I received was $400 for one or $1000 for 10... im not in machining so I haven't a bloody clue. I'm not even trying to make money on it, just throwing it out there if anyone was interested. Edited May 27, 2016 by venator Quote
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