Need Help With Adler 167-373

[Dave84]

Purchased an Adler 167-373 and am loving it! Runs smooth, sews through anything. I do custom clothing with leather and denim and needed a real machine for pants and jackets, plus it was time to step up to heavier thread than my Viking Emerald 118 allowed.

I'm having one issue with belt loops on denim. When looking at the picture attached, when I start at the top, I backstitch with no issue and run down the loop. When I come to the end of the belt loop and cross the overlap onto the waist piece, the machine stops walking the material through, this part is circled in red. The needle does keep stitching and I can reverse, I just cannot go any more further forward. At this point I'm transitioning from four layers to two layers.

Secondly, while I wait for the previous owner who tuned up the machine to send me his copy of a more thorough manual than the 12 page one I've seen online, how can I adjust for when I get the bobbin thread coming through to the top of the material on two layers? on three or more layers, the thread is perfectly centered. I've tried the top thread tension, nothing. I've tried the top knob to put tension on the top foot, nothing.

Appreciate the help guys, this site helped me make my decision and I can tell your all into the craft.

-Dave

[Uwe]

It may have to do with the shape of your presser feet or how high your presser feet lift while they walk. I can't really tell much from the tiny photo you posted.

Consider using a presser foot like the KP-267Q by Kwok Hing if you have big steps in material height to climb over:

If adjusting your upper thread tension does not allow you to get the bobbin thread pulled down then you may have to increase your bobbin thread tension.

There's a Service manual for the Durkopp Adler 67 series, but it's in German (you can always copy and paste sections into Google translate and hope for the best). The only real difference between the 67 and the 167 series is the larger hook/bobbin size in the 167, as far as I know.

If you get a more detailed manual from the owner than the Durkopp Adler 167 User Manual with 12 pages in 5 languages, please help us get it posted online. I'll be happy to scan it for you.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Uwe

[Dave84]

I'm not too sure about the condition of the feet, but they have no knicks and move freely. It's odd, only happens when the material changes from thick to thin, both feet just stop walking. When doing straight stitches the 3, 4 layers, no issues. Love the machine either way.

[Uwe]

The outer foot needs the inner foot to press against the material in order to lift up. If the step down is too high, the inner foot may not press against the bottom and prevent the outer foot from lifting up. This would cause them to appear to stop walking.

There is an adjustment on the back of the machine that allows you to change how high the feet lift up as they walk. Set that to the highest lift it allows and see if it helps.

The actuator needs to be at the top of the slot for maximum foot lift as they walk. Many folks people have this at the top and never change it.

Inner and outer feet should also lift the same amount as they walk. Check the service manual if that's not the case.

Edited February 19, 2016 by Uwe

[Bugstruck]

If the feet are not lifting the same amount (almost certain they are not as I had the same issue with my 67) then what Uwe said is occuring. Here is what I did and I don't have a manual but it worked well. Put the actiator adjustment in the center of it's adjustment range. Then look at Uwe's photo. See the two screws on the shaft just above the actuator? Leave them alone and move to the two screws at the opposite end of that shaft. That is where you ultimately make the adjustment. First though, drop the presser foot and turn the handwheel until the center foot is at the bottom of the stroke and hard against the feed dog. Then turn the hand wheel until the center foot is at the top of the stroke and make note of the he maximum rise distance of the center foot. Now you are ready to adjust.

Move the center foot back to the bottom of the stroke and leave the handwheel position alone (parked] for ths entire process. Loosen the two screws I noted at the opposite end of that shaft above and don't panic when the center foot dances off the feed dog and that linkage comes free and moves. Now put pressure on the (now free) linkage arm to move the center (inner) foot tight against the feed dog. At the the same time have the sloted screwdriver close and raise the outer walking foot/ presser foot up using the presser lift lever........to a distance above the needle or dog plate that equals the center (inner) foot lift height you noted earlier. What you are doing is holding the inner foot tight against the feed dog via the loose linkage arm and raising the outer foot above the lowest position a distance equal (you can eyeball this adjustment) to the inner foot rise. You will figure out how to do noth with one hand to free the other hand to tighten those shaft clamp screws. Now you can check it to see if the inner and outer feet are raising an equal distance.

Took me a couple of trys. Then try that jeans loop decent. Problem should be solved.

[Dave84]

Good Morning everyone, I haven't used my Adler in a year and never did receive that "thorough manual" from the seller.  Whatya gunna do...I'm going to contact him tomorrow for an issue I'm having now but hope some of you may be able to help with a new issue I'm having.  From the first try yesterday, whenever I'm going to sew my thread keeps sliding out of the needle hole and everything is getting jammed just under the presser foot plate, if that's what its called.  I think the top thread is getting hooked with the bobbin area, not too sure where but looks like under the cradle for the bobbin.  I can't get one stitch without this happening.  I've tried both my poly and nylon thread, leather and canvas needles and keeps happening.  does this issue sound familiar? I oiled my machine, attempted to set the tension at different settings.  I though it was a tension problem, but every time I tighten the tensioner, it feels like the thread is too taught.  When I loosen it so the thread pulls through similarly to my Husquavarna table top machine, I still have the same problem.

[brmax]

I think while holding the thread at the needle when, take-up lever is at top you can pull a good amount of slack to hold stoutly for starting off the stitch seam. 

Keeping a good amount of that thread in hand on this machine when starting should help. Most times i try to have this slack and also to have the needle buried in the material works really well. Hope that can help, i am finding in listening around here that no matter, they all have their own likes these machines. 

Good day

Floyd

[Dave84]

Thanks for the advice Floyd.  I've already attempted that thinking I'd need to guide it to stat, but the top thread just gets pulled right out of my fingers and right back out the needle hole.  It seems like once the needle goes down, the top thread is getting caught inside and just pulled out, then everything bunches.

[brmax]

Im not twenty anymore but found on a couple machines here with slick thread. The winding around my hand is required and if it pulls i go to or it breaks!

i found the ptfe thread a real bear and then the replacement to poly with not a bit of adjustment its like easy as holding a new piece of pie, mmm yep

Floyd

[Aven]

Dave84, did you ever receive the larger manual?  I just picked up an Adler 167 and I'm not finding anything other than the 12 multilingual user manual and the one in German.  Und mein Deutsch ist schrecklich.  I hoping you can point me towards a better manual that's in English.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

All I have is the stated 12 page user manual.  It's pretty weak documentation to say the least.

[Uwe]

I came across an Adler 167 service manual in my documentation archive today and scanned it to PDF: Adler 167 Service Manual.pdf  (40 MB of high resolution goodness!)

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

On 7/17/2017 at 10:47 PM, Uwe said:

I came across an Adler 167 service manual in my documentation archive today and scanned it to PDF: Adler 167 Service Manual.pdf  (40 MB of high resolution goodness!)

Wow, that's a new one to add to my library, thanks.

[Aven]

On 7/17/2017 at 7:47 PM, Uwe said:

I came across an Adler 167 service manual in my documentation archive today and scanned it to PDF: Adler 167 Service Manual.pdf  (40 MB of high resolution goodness!)

Thank you!  I have had no luck trying to track one down on the net.

Much appreciated.

[DrmCa]

Dave,

I can't see the problem clearly on your picture, a more high res would help. Not sure if anyone already mentioned that there may be two kinds of feet: textile and leather. For the obvious reason textile feet are serrated, while leather feet are smooth. If you are using leather feet on denim, it would slip. Or if your textile feet are completely worn, they would slip as well. Sorry if this was mentioned already.

[Pluimjr]

Uwe,

I downloaded the manual... Thnx
I do not find something about regulation of the stichlength. :O((
My ADLER 167 has no correct stich lenght... at 6mm the length is 4.5 mm, at 5mm - 3.25, at 4mm - 1.25 mm

So there is something wrong with this...

[Constabulary]

maybe this helps:

 

[Dave84]

Hey guys,  been a while since I checked the forum.  The guy never came through with his "manual".  I never was able to understand what the problem is.  Currently looking for repair shop near me, but will look over the feet recommendation.  I've been trying over the months to mess with it and each time I start a stitch, the thread gets caught more and more under the bobbin case all the way at the bottom.  I've been hauling ass on my 69 Cougar which took precedence.

[Dave9111]

I recently bought an Adler 67 GA 173 and it is a very, very nice machine.   However the 67 has the small bobbin and I do a lot of larger projects and having a lot of bobbin thread is a good thing. 

I bought a Hirose hook for a 167 machine but it is a TR hook for a trimmer.

I've read that the 67 is the same machine as the 167 except for the larger hook.  

Do you think I can make the bigger 167 TR hook work without a trimmer in my 67 machine ?  I thought I would ask before I tear into the machine to try and convert it to a big hook.

One more question;   Where is the best place to buy "low cost" replacement parts for the Adler 67.   Things such as feet, feed dogs, etc.

Uwe, thanks for the 167 manual.   Adler manuals seem to be fairly rare.    I know where Garden City is, as  I grew up in Livonia!

Thanks,  Dave

 

[Uwe]

Well hello there, former almost neighbor!

Feet and other common parts are readily available on Ebay and from various vendors. Adler 67, 167, and 267 share the same feet, throat plates and feed dogs, which is nice. I have a few Adler x67 parts in my Ebay store (see link in signature below) made by Kwok Hing, including feet, throat plates, and feed dogs.

As for upgrading the hook, it's not quite as simple as swapping out the hook, I'm afraid. There are a few other parts that need to change (e.g. take-up lever) and the larger hook may also be taller, which means you may have to lower the hook carrier frame, which is not an easy thing to do. Compare the parts diagrams and find all the parts that have different part numbers - I'm guessing at least a dozen parts are different. I have a feeling most folks decide against an upgrade because of the complexity involved.

 

[Dave9111]

Ok... looks like I need to compare parts lists. 

A very good idea!   I'll report back on the results of that.

Thanks for pointing out your Ebay store as well.

[Dave84]

Switched to a 92 bonded polyester and what im experiencing now is the top thread snapping on the first go around.  Pulljng most of the plate area apart it appears the top thread is snapping just below the lower plate where the needle goes down into.  Does anyone have any thoughts?  What im thinking is the thread is getting caught on a burr on the lower plate, but I don't see any.

[Dave84]

I'm also thinking could the thread snapping have something to do with the first loop?

[Dave9111]

Hi Dave84,

What machine is this ?

Have you checked your needle plate, feed dog for burrs?   Needle strikes on the edge of the needle hole can cut the thread.  

Another possible issue:  If you don't have  a sufficient gap around the nib on the bobbin carrier that engages with the needle plate. 

There is a nib (I don't know its real name) that hold the thread on bobbin carrier to form the loop around the bobbin carrier.  (The bobbin carrier is held stationary inside the rotating hook by this nib)

That nib engages in a notch in the needle plate and prevents the bobbin carrier from rotating so the thread is pulled out of the bobbin carrier. 

If the clearance between the nib and the notch is not sufficient, you will break your thread every time.   This happens if you run large thread through a machine setup for thin thread. 

The only way I know how to set this gap is to move the hook away from the needle plate.   I've never had to do that.    Was the hook replaced in this machine?  If so perhaps the gap was not properly set? 

69 Cougar...  nice car!

Dave

[Dave84]

Ahhhhh... I had the thread backwards through the needle.  Thanks to Uwe' s timing adjustment video for allowing me to spot that.  Once I put it through the last guide hole on the left of the needle then through the needle toward the machine, I have perfect stitches.  I do need to adjust the tension on the bottom, that just pulls right out after I stitch and cut.

Just now, Dave9111 said:

Hi Dave84,

What machine is this ?

Have you checked your needle plate, feed dog for burrs?   Needle strikes on the edge of the needle hole can cut the thread.  

Another possible issue:  If you don't have  a sufficient gap around the nib on the bobbin carrier that engages with the needle plate. 

There is a nib (I don't know its real name) that hold the thread on bobbin carrier to form the loop around the bobbin carrier.  (The bobbin carrier is held stationary inside the rotating hook by this nib)

That nib engages in a notch in the needle plate and prevents the bobbin carrier from rotating so the thread is pulled out of the bobbin carrier. 

If the clearance between the nib and the notch is not sufficient, you will break your thread every time.   This happens if you run large thread through a machine setup for thin thread. 

The only way I know how to set this gap is to move the hook away from the needle plate.   I've never had to do that.    Was the hook replaced in this machine?  If so perhaps the gap was not properly set? 

69 Cougar...  nice car!

Dave

Thanks for the input Dave but it was a stupid mistake on my part.  I had the thread through the needle backwards.  I'm looking forward to testing and adjusting tension to start a pair of custom pants.