Leather Stitching

[coolhandleather]

Ok, so lets try and explain this the best way possible:

I am somewhat experienced with leather working and have made numerous knife sheaths, belts, holsters, etc which as you know requires some fairly thick leather (6-10 oz). I don't however, have any experience when it comes to the thinner (4-6oz) range. Here is where my questions comes in.....I am currently putting together patterns for small wallets, notepad holders, moleskin covers. This uses 4-5oz leather. The needles that I have along with the waxed nylon thread are way to big for such a thin leather. I don't want such a large hole and such thick thread (seems to alter the edge too much when punched or drilled). How can I find out what I see people always using on wallets (hand stitching that is) that looks like a really small needle and thread? By the way I use diamond punches just to get started and then I use my awl or a drill bit and that way I can make a custom size hole.

Example: Lets say I make a small leather notepad holder (3x5) and I am stitching the flap that holds the pad in place. With the leather being so thin and more fragile than 10oz, I think the thread looks way to big and bulky up against it.

Any suggestions? Needle size? thread size? where you find your stock? I have attached a pic of a pocket sheath that I sell and its really popular, this is an example of using thick (10oz) leather and how the stitching looks good with that size and thckness, however would way too big for half that on 4-5oz leather.

Thanks,

Luke

[Birdman]

I suggest you start thinking of using No 3 or 4 'blunt point' harness needles, or for a finer thread and stitching, No 5 or 6 glovers needles.

Suitable linen thread for the former, 4/18 3/18, 3/25.

For the later, 3/18, 3/25, 3/40, or some very nice 'silks'.

Stitching suggested from 8spi to 12spi, using a pricking iron to just that, prick, not punch! let your awl do the work!

I hope this helps.

[coolhandleather]

Birdman, Thank you very much for your reply. I will give those a try.

[Boriqua]

I like the Maine Thread size .030 with a size 4 harness needle and 6-7 stitches per inch in that range. For inlay stuff where i have to make alot of tight turns 7 stitches per inch. but wallet interiors I still use 6 I use a pricking wheel but pricking iron or wheel will get you there. For smaller stuff ... which I dont generally do, like watch straps, which I might do, I would go to .020 and 8-9 spi wheel. If you write maine thread they send you a nifty card with all their sizes and colors which was free when I got mine a year or so ago.

I have had nothing but great service from them

https://www.mainethread.com/

In comparison I generally use .040 for holsters with a size 0 needle and 6spi and .045 with a "0" needle if I want to sew something and make a statement with the thread but when I go to .045 I have to switch awls and I go to 5spi. But once you get the card from them you will be able to make up your mind.

Edited February 28, 2016 by Boriqua

[Boriqua]

opps double post

Edited February 28, 2016 by Boriqua

[uberyk]

I go with the 4mm diamond chisel and .6mm thread for wallets and watch straps.

Those two seem to match up well size wise as the thread ends up taking up about half of the hole.

[coolhandleather]

Thank you all so much for your replies. I have found something that has worked great for me. Birdman thank you for the suggestion. Boriqua- thank you for the link I'll give it a try. Uberk- thank you for your response.

[Halitech]

I second Boriqua on Maine thread, I started buying from them and even though it costs me a lot more with shipping and exchange to Canadian from US, the quality of their thread in my mind, makes it all worth it. In fact I just ordered 3 rolls (2 black and 1 scarlet 0.030") 3 weeks ago and received them in 9 days

[BadDaditood]

Halitech- have you tried kayaking from Nova Scotia to Maine? you'd save on shipping....

[Halitech]

BadDad, I would but it's a little cool on the Bay of Fundy right now lol