Members Red Cent Posted March 16, 2016 Members Report Posted March 16, 2016 Most all of my SASS belts have a thin layer of suede sewn on. I usually use an 8-9 for the outer, 5-6 for the liner plus the suede. I inform customers I build for speed and ergonomics. All of the holsters are rock hard and fitted to the handgun. Might need a tad of tweaking by the customer to reduce some tension. A properly cinched belt along with the suede will inhibit holster and belt rise in case of a bad draw. .... Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members dikman Posted March 16, 2016 Author Members Report Posted March 16, 2016 I've made belts using the same weight leather as you use (minus the suede) but I find them too stiff for my needs. Because I use a cross-draw rig the strong side (right hand, in my case) holster I tend to sit lower so that the belt is angled down across my body. The cross-draw holster is sitting higher, of course, but that doesn't matter. If the belt is too stiff it won't stay put where I want it! My holsters are also hard and the guns slide out easily - as long as I don't catch the front sight, but I'm learning! On the subject of suede, I originally intended to use it as you do, but after discussing it with the chap where I buy my leather I decided against it. I don't know if our suede is made different to yours, but he said it's pre-coloured (as it doesn't accept dyes) and the colour has a tendency to bleed out if it gets sweaty. Still, I might use it sometime just to try it out. The biggest problem I have is that I don't make them for sale, and there's only so many holsters I can make for myself . Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
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