Stitches on repaired machine: ready to rock-n-roll?

[Trox]

Yes after I hammered the stitch to lock them, I run a over stitch wheel. Let's say # 6, measure up the stitch length on the machine with that (before I sew of course). Run that wheel to make a nice stitch, just like you do on hand stitching. It's an very important step to hammer the seam.

Tor

[llucas]

I did not hammer the stitches on the last sample, but I think you are right, it would have helped. Here is a tool with a narrow flat edge I was thinking of making for the purpose of flattening stitches. I suppose it would be easier to grind the end of an old 1 1/2" chisel to the width of about a 415 thread. I have looked for a similar tool but have not found one -- all I have seen are hammers and seam rollers.

The feed back is appreciated.

Edited March 27, 2016 by llucas

[llucas]

I have used a regular carpenters hammer on occasion, but have been looking at this one. Has anyone used this one or something similar? What did you think of the result using this kind of hammer? The catalog description says it is good for tapping stitches.

 

Edited March 27, 2016 by llucas

[llucas]

Tor, you made me curious so I am ordering some Schmetz 794LR-200 needles to try out. Thanks.

[Trox]

Hi Lucas,  you are using machine thread, not waxed linen. The thread will not lay flat, the purpose of hammering the stitches are to close the leather around the tread. If a stitch brakes later, the hole seam will not unravel. Do not beat it to hard, then the leather will be thinner, wider and damaged inside. Just hard enough to close the seam. Then you can use a over stitch wheel (or a Tandy pricking wheel, it's formed like a over stitch wheel anyway). The wheel will make the seam nice and natural again. I mostly  prefer the use of a French shoe hammer, it has a big polished face. It looks very similar to that Osborne hammer, but the face is a bit more rounded. That hammer looks good for the job, I like them with a bit rounder face, though (that's not necessary). I sometimes use a Blanchard saddlers hammer, when the shoe hammer is to big or to far away on the bench.  It's  much like the CS Osborne # 55 saddlers hammer and are good for many things (forming leather, drive tacks etc). But the one in your pic is better for hammering seams, the face on the saddlers hammer is a bit to small. (Then it's easy to beat to hard, less surface and more pressure). There are other hammers that can be used, like a car bodywork hammer etc. Remember to polish the face on it on a buffing wheel etc, using grinding/polishing paste.  Otherwise it will stain the natural leather (vegtan).  A Carpenter hammer is not good for the job, it's to coarse, heavy and sharp sided. If that Osborne hammer or other leather hammer are to expensive, have a look in a shop wit inexpensive tools. Look for something that can be altered/polished in to a good leather hammer. I have a several different old leather hammers, tack hammers, upholstery hammers and saddlers hammers. A good leather hammer is an important and much used tool and so is a good anvil.

Tor 

[llucas]

Thanks for the information, Tor. All my experience until now is hand stitching. Using a stitching wheel or a pricking punch with an awl, the holes made with an awl normally close up pretty quickly and tapping the stitches was rarely necessary, if at all. Stitching with a machine is a new animal for me. One example: the stitches on the back side of the leather is not nearly as nice as hand stitching. At some point I will pick up the finer points and actually be able to sew a proper job with this machine. I appreciate you and others on this forum providing good information that helps me along this path. Thanks.

Edited March 28, 2016 by llucas

[Trox]

You will never be able to imitate good hand sewing on a machine, stitches will alway looks uglier on the back side. Something related to the needle punch out, feed dog and plate. Machine sewing is for saving time and labor costs only. Proper hand stitching will always be stronger and more beautiful. With softer lining on the back side, the bottom stitches will look better. 

Good luck

Tor   

[llucas]

21 hours ago, Trox said:

You will never be able to imitate good hand sewing on a machine, stitches will alway looks uglier on the back side. Something related to the needle punch out, feed dog and plate. Machine sewing is for saving time and labor costs only. Proper hand stitching will always be stronger and more beautiful. With softer lining on the back side, the bottom stitches will look better. 

Good luck

Tor   

I have to agree with you: hand stitching is much nicer. But with demand building for the belts and holsters, I can no longer afford the time. It is not cost effective. I like your comment about the softer leather on the back. I am thinking of switching to English Bridle leather for the front, but staying with natural veg tan for the back.

[llucas]

Based on the comments here, I nervously sewed my first belt on the Beast today. Since I did not like the stitches on the back when I did the finished sample posted above, I decided I would sew first (since the belt will be dyed black) and do edges and apply finishes after stitching. The Beast chugged along about one stitch per second -- slow compared to the skills of others, but much, much faster than my hand stitching. I also reduced the number of stitches per inch to five instead of the seven pictured in the above post. The top thread is 277 and the bottom thread is 207.

Here is the front stitch:

 

Here is the back stitch:

I did not use the edge guide; free handed it instead. I should have used the edge guide, lol. Comments/criticisms are welcome.

Edited March 29, 2016 by llucas

[dikman]

Yes, I found an edge guide to be indispensable on anything longer than a couple of inches!! Actually, I reckon it looks good (bottom too) and once it's dyed and finished off it'll probably look even better!