Members Mungo Posted April 9, 2016 Members Report Posted April 9, 2016 I've never tried wet forming. If I understand correctly, you use small nails to secure the leather very close to the mold. Won't this leave holes in the finished work piece? I'll check back tomorrow to read any replies. Thanks. Quote
Members bob21804 Posted April 9, 2016 Members Report Posted April 9, 2016 I don't have a lot of experience, but I have seen videos where people have used small nails or staples. They worked the wet leather as tight as possible against the form, then nailed or stapled close enough to hold it in place, but far enough away that it would be trimmed off after drying. The couple of times I wet formed a small pouch I accomplished the same thing by cutting a U-shaped piece of thin plywood just a little bigger than the wooden form, and used small clamps to hold it tightly in place instead of using nails or staples. Either way should work fine. Just make sure to cut your leather large enough to allow enough for forming and for trimming afterwards, I hope that helps, and maybe somebody with more experience will chime in with other suggestions. Quote
Members Mungo Posted April 9, 2016 Author Members Report Posted April 9, 2016 The clamps and top-piece mold sounds like the best technique. No holes, no mess. Thanks a lot. Quote
Members snubbyfan Posted April 9, 2016 Members Report Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) I don't do a lot of wet forming but when I do I use the board and clamp method. Works for me. Edited April 9, 2016 by snubbyfan Quote Keep on Chooglin'Check out my YouTube Channel, comment and subscribe for updateshttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOM3hbruUKHov9kquIxXKlA
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted April 9, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted April 9, 2016 Aluminum works great, too, in place of board. It's dimensionally stable, lasts forever, won't stain the leather. As for nailing down the leather, that's been done for a LONG time. If you use your tools to form it down (assuming the back is flat) then mark the stitches with an overstitch wheel (or chisel) you can then place the nails right in the stitch line IN THE MARK for a hole, and then when you sittch the hole will be used anyway. I don't do too much of this type of case forming any more, but I still have some COPPER BRADS that I used for the nails. Copper - like the aluminum - won't stain the leather. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members bob21804 Posted April 9, 2016 Members Report Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) Ahh, that's it Snubby - Just how I did it. Good to know info too, JLS. I like the idea of making up molds like this, and keeping them on hand, for sizes that will work on various/multiple projects. Edited April 9, 2016 by bob21804 Quote
Northmount Posted April 9, 2016 Report Posted April 9, 2016 As JLS says, use copper or brass nails. Iron nails in vegtan leather will turn black due to the tannin and iron chemical action. I prefer molds and clamps. Tom Quote
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