Finishing a row of stitching

[Gonnate]

Hi all,

This question shows just how self-taught you can get ... When I get to the end of a seam of saddle stitches I tend to double back down the last hole or two, then tie the 2 ends of thread on the side which won't show so much. It's secure, but looks a bit clumsy.

What's the proper way to do it, please?

Thanks,

Richard.

[tashabear]

Hi all,

This question shows just how self-taught you can get ... When I get to the end of a seam of saddle stitches I tend to double back down the last hole or two, then tie the 2 ends of thread on the side which won't show so much. It's secure, but looks a bit clumsy.

What's the proper way to do it, please?

Thanks,

Richard.

Go back two or three holes and then cut the ends close with a knife. That's what it says to do in the Al Stohlman book on handsewing, and it works quite well.

[Rawhide]

Once you cut the loose ends as close as you can with an x-acto knife or scalpel, you can burn the ends with a lighter. Be careful not to cut the stitch, just the loose end.

[Bree]

Hi all,

This question shows just how self-taught you can get ... When I get to the end of a seam of saddle stitches I tend to double back down the last hole or two, then tie the 2 ends of thread on the side which won't show so much. It's secure, but looks a bit clumsy.

What's the proper way to do it, please?

Thanks,

Richard.

When I'm not using real heavy thread and I have a lot of room, I like to go back 3 and up 1, clip the threads, and then maybe take a needle and run a little bit of FabriTac or even some clear nail polish to the threads I just cut. That helps lock them in and prevents them pulling out and leaving danglers.

I'm not sure that there is any right or wrong way. I used to just go back two like lots of folks do but I changed. Nevertheless, I could easily do back-2 and it wouldn't bother me.

[celticleather]

Give this a try . . . it's the way I was taught by an old-time saddler.

Go back two stitches, as previously suggested, but on the last stitch wrap the loop thread once around the needle before pulling it tight (see pic). This effectively ties a knot inside the hole, and it will never come loose. Trim the ends flush in the usual way.

[TrooperChuck]

I've never seen the "wrap the needle" technique. I can't wait to try it out. Thanks for posting that, Celticleather.

[Rawhide]

Give this a try . . . it's the way I was taught by an old-time saddler.

Go back two stitches, as previously suggested, but on the last stitch wrap the loop thread once around the needle before pulling it tight (see pic). This effectively ties a knot inside the hole, and it will never come loose. Trim the ends flush in the usual way.

That's a great idea. Thanks for the tip. I will incorporate this in my work.

Thanks again.

[Crystal]

Give this a try . . . it's the way I was taught by an old-time saddler.

Go back two stitches, as previously suggested, but on the last stitch wrap the loop thread once around the needle before pulling it tight (see pic). This effectively ties a knot inside the hole, and it will never come loose. Trim the ends flush in the usual way.

Good tip! Thanks!

Crystal

[bruce johnson]

You can also use a fine point soldering iron to trim the tags with. I try to pull both tags to the backside on machine sewing and do that. It burns a little knob on the end that resists pulling back through. Shoptalk sells a little battery operated cautery pen to use as a thread burner. I use them a bit in my other job. It cuts clean and works well but doesn't leave a knob, it tends to cut flush.

I like that wrap the needle too. I had an old Irish harness maker show me that. He wrapped once on every stitch. He put 2-3 on the last couple depending on how thick the leather was. He taught me to tie in buckles, took my awls and made darts from the old ones, rasped my stitching horse jaws to be proper without asking, and we enjoyed a wee bit o' Bushmill's Black. A grand time was had that day....

[Gonnate]

Thanks to all for these replies - I'll try the extra turn round the needle as well.

All good wishes to all,

Richard.

[CitizenKate]

Give this a try . . . it's the way I was taught by an old-time saddler.

Go back two stitches, as previously suggested, but on the last stitch wrap the loop thread once around the needle before pulling it tight (see pic). This effectively ties a knot inside the hole, and it will never come loose. Trim the ends flush in the usual way.

That's clever! Thanks for showing us that.

Kate

[tashabear]

Give this a try . . . it's the way I was taught by an old-time saddler.

Go back two stitches, as previously suggested, but on the last stitch wrap the loop thread once around the needle before pulling it tight (see pic). This effectively ties a knot inside the hole, and it will never come loose. Trim the ends flush in the usual way.

Oh, that's kind of awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[celticleather]

Here's another way of dealing with your loose ends!

After you've tied off the two back-stitches with an internal knot (see my earlier post), drive a fine awl at an angle from the last stitch - where you tied the knot - through to the edge of the piece. Do this from both sides. Pull the threads through and cut off flush to the edge. Add a dab of dye to the point where the threads have been cut off. When boned and polished, the thread ends will disappear without trace!

If you have used nylon thread (heaven forfend!!) you may need to use a Sharpie to colour the thread ends, because the dye may not colour the thread.

[Gonnate]

Here's another way of dealing with your loose ends!

After you've tied off the two back-stitches with an internal knot (see my earlier post), drive a fine awl at an angle from the last stitch - where you tied the knot - through to the edge of the piece. Do this from both sides. Pull the threads through and cut off flush to the edge. Add a dab of dye to the point where the threads have been cut off. When boned and polished, the thread ends will disappear without trace!

If you have used nylon thread (heaven forfend!!) you may need to use a Sharpie to colour the thread ends, because the dye may not colour the thread.

Now that's SERIOUSLY cunning!

But nylon thread??? Heaven forfend indeed. I am mostly self-taught, but I came into it partly through the history re-enacting business, so you're safe there. No Nylon Shall Pass!

What I really regret is that I never met my mother's father - he died long before I ever came to be - who was a Master Shoemaker in the days of all hand-making. There I could have learned a few things!

Thanks again for the advice,

Richard.

[jbird]

I use the go back to holes method but after its finished I have super glue in a bottle with a brush its easy to control brush it over the ends both sides works like a charm.

Josh

[hivemind]

I use the go back to holes method but after its finished I have super glue in a bottle with a brush its easy to control brush it over the ends both sides works like a charm.

Josh

I do that as well. I also have a little bottle of accelerator - it's a spray-on liquid that almost instantly cures cyanocryalate (super) glue. Muy handy...

Edited April 12, 2009 by hivemind

[hidepounder]

Like Bruce, I use a fine tip soldering iron. I pull the thread back against the last stitch and actually melt the tag end into that last stitch.

[DeeAnna]

"...But nylon thread??? Heaven forfend indeed. ... No Nylon Shall Pass! ... my mother's father ... a Master Shoemaker in the days of all hand-making. There I could have learned a few things!..."

Like learning the art of stitching with hog bristles? If you eschew nylon and really wanna go for old-time authenticity, that's the direction to head.

--DeeAnna

[Mongo]

Gonnate,

My stuff is hand stiched holsters 8-9oz with a 6-7oz lining. I back stich 3 or 4 times, cut the thread off close, and then I take a needle, or the awl and poke any remaining thread down into the last hole. I have holsters that are seeing heavy use in competition 3 weekends a month over four years and I have never had one come back with loose thread.

Some of you other gents had some good ideas that I may "borrow".

Edited May 25, 2009 by Mongo

[UKRay]

I hate to say this, but I learned to stitch with a bristle waxed to a linen thread... does that make me an old timer or just authentic?

"...But nylon thread??? Heaven forfend indeed. ... No Nylon Shall Pass! ... my mother's father ... a Master Shoemaker in the days of all hand-making. There I could have learned a few things!..."

Like learning the art of stitching with hog bristles? If you eschew nylon and really wanna go for old-time authenticity, that's the direction to head.

--DeeAnna

[pete]

another tip that I have not seen posted here.

When you cut the ends of your stitching, hold the x-acto blade as close as possible to the leather (and obviously as close to the thread) and

WIGGLE THE THREAD---- DON'T SAW OR CUT WITH THE BLADE. Makes the end almost invisible too.

I can't believe how many folks I have shown this o who have been hand stitching a lot longer than I!

pete

[Luke Hatley]

I hate to say this, but I learned to stitch with a bristle waxed to a linen thread... does that make me an old timer or just authentic?

"

IN THE COLONIES WE WOULD CALL YOU AN "AUTHENTIC OLD TIMER"......L M A O

I will use nylon for modern items and my 18th century items i will use Flax Thread.

[celticleather]

I hate to say this, but I learned to stitch with a bristle waxed to a linen thread... does that make me an old timer or just authentic?

I don't think you're quite over the hill yet, Ray! We still use them, once in a very blue moon, to re-stitch the welts on shoes. The pig's bristle has now been replaced with wire - probably something to do with animal rights! - but they still work the same.

[amuckart]

I hate to say this, but I learned to stitch with a bristle waxed to a linen thread... does that make me an old timer or just authentic?

I'm no old-timer, but seeing as I came at this from the shoe side of things that's how I've learned too, except that I use split nylon fishing line instead of boar bristles. I used needles and synthetic thread for maybe three projects before I moved on to linen and 'bristles'. The bristles take a bit of practice to put on but now that I'm used to it I can't go back to needles.