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Kel-Tec PF-9 IWB Holster Done!

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A couple days back I posted a thread asking for a critique of a design I've been working on for an "Inside the waistband" holster for my Kel-Tec PF-9:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957

Well, I've modified the design based on the feedback, and have completed my 1st IWB holster, here are some pics:

Front:

3131478944_81b39714ae.jpg

Back:

3131479686_96d08f7db0.jpg

Back:

3131480388_e998492796.jpg

Stitching closeup:

3130650603_39600c0cb8.jpg

Packing, side view:

3130651297_7ed655d910.jpg

Packing, rear view:

3130652019_e1a0c40d29.jpg

Updated pattern:

3131778730_7b568c7bf0.jpg

And here are all of the photos, you can get the full size pattern here:

http://flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/sets...57611563023014/

So far, it seems to pack real nice, and I can reach around the grip for a smooth draw. Thanks everyone!

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Looks clean; I like it.

If you don't mind, what did you use to attach the loops to the holster? I've only used snaps before.

Thanks. Happy Holidays.

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Good job on the final holster design.

How do you like that style of IWB holster?

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Good job on the final holster design.

How do you like that style of IWB holster?

To answer a couple of questions:

1. Weight of leather: I used 6-7oz, seems like a good thickness

2. To attach the loops I used aluminum rivets, that seemed to work well. The snap part on the end of the loop is a normal 2 piece snap that rivets to itself

3. This style of IWB seems to work well. With widely spaced loops it's stable for a reliable draw, and the flap that covers the back of the slide is an added level of comfort

Thanks for the compliments! While not a totally unique design (some have commented on similar products) I'm happy with the result.

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you can get the full size pattern here:

http://flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/sets...57611563023014/

Hey, nice holster! I too have a PF-9 and prefer IWB carry, but I prefer a belt clip.

Thanks for providing the pattern. It looks like a CAD drawing - was it done with GoogleSketch?

Any chance you would share the electronc file so I can use it as a baseline for sketching up an IWB with beltclip for my PF-9?

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Hey, nice holster! I too have a PF-9 and prefer IWB carry, but I prefer a belt clip.

Thanks for providing the pattern. It looks like a CAD drawing - was it done with GoogleSketch?

Any chance you would share the electronc file so I can use it as a baseline for sketching up an IWB with beltclip for my PF-9?

Actually, I just did that in photoshop. I can upload the .psd file if that's helpful (I'll be back home some time this weekend).

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I can upload the .psd file if that's helpful.

Gavin,

Actually that would be great - I think I can import a .psd and retain the dimensional data with Google SketchUp.

Greatly appreciated!

-Scott

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2. To attach the loops I used aluminum rivets, that seemed to work well. The snap part on the end of the loop is a normal 2 piece snap that rivets to itself

Can you explain the attachment of the loops in more detail? I'm working on my 1st IWB and can't picture a good way to attach the loops at or near the same spot I have the snaps.

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Looks really great. I also use Photoshop to mock up my patterns. I have actually developed a little system that is working nicely. I scan the pistol into Photoshop and cut it out with the pen tool. After I have the pistol on it's own layer, I throw in a 1.75" black strip all the way across the canvas to act as a belt. Then, I can cant the pistol by selecting the pistol layer and apple+T it to my liking. I usually adjust it's opacity to ~25% and print it out. I can then pencil a pattern over top of a life-size image of the pistol and a belt. I scan it back in and clean the pencil up with the pen tool on a new layer (round out the curves and put more thought into cutting the pattern in leather (i.e. eliminating any hard to get to spots)), then print 1 last time. Cut it out of the paper, and trace the pattern on the leather. Viola - a printable pattern. I keep the pattern itself on it's own layer, so in my psd, I have the pistol and have multiple pattern layers, so I can just switch them on and off depending on what pattern I want to work with/print.

Sorry for the long winded post. :)

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Can you explain the attachment of the loops in more detail? I'm working on my 1st IWB and can't picture a good way to attach the loops at or near the same spot I have the snaps.

For reference for snap fasteners:

pro2.jpg

Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers:

Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather)

Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants

Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached

All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit.

On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket).

I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops...

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For reference for snap fasteners:

pro2.jpg

Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers:

Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather)

Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants

Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached

All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit.

On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket).

I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops...

I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). These were the biggest snaps they stocked at Tandy??? I was going to try to rivet the loop on and have a separate attachment point for the snap but I'm having a hard time working this out in my head as to how well it'll work.

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I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). These were the biggest snaps they stocked at Tandy??? I was going to try to rivet the loop on and have a separate attachment point for the snap but I'm having a hard time working this out in my head as to how well it'll work.

Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post)

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Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post)

So rather than use the post that came w/the snap you're using a rivet post?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none

What size snaps and rivets are you using?

Where did you get them?

I measured I my total thickness (w/o a spacer) is about 1/2".

Edited by JRB

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I made one of these for my PF9, and it carries very well, the only change I would suggest is on the back side.

on the sweat guard, I found that if you cut it higher on the grip closer to the slide the gun will draw better.

To get an idea what I'm talking about.. (I wish I could find my camera in the moving mess...) Grip the gun with your pointer finger and thumb, like your getting ready to shoot... then do the same thing like your going to draw... the sweat guard kinda blocks the thumb from getting a good grip.

I hope that makes sense, once I can find my camera I'll have to take a picture of my edit.

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I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case).

You can also use a 6/32 T-nut with an appropriate lenght 6/32 counter sunk screw instead of the stud post. Various length t-nuts can be had in the bulk hardware section of most any hardware store and you can grind the barrel down if they're too long.

Product-2004915143018.jpg

Bronson

Edited by Bronson

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