New Juki LS-2342 cylinder arm machine

[Uwe]

One of the most impressive new machines I saw at the trade show in Atlanta last month was the new Juki LS-2342. It's hard to find information online about this machine (even on Juki's website), so I decided to scan in my little sales flyer and share it here.

The machine fits size-wise and capability-wise between the LS-1341 and the TSC-441, and may be of interest to leatherworkers with deep pockets - the price is likely around $8K.

Here's the brochure for your spec reading entertainment:

http://docs.uwe.net/Juki-LS-2342.pdf

 

Juki-LS-2342.pdf

[soccerdad]

Thanks for posting this, Uwe. Makes me wonder: Are there machines in the $2,500 range with similar arm length (about 14"), cylinder diameter (about 1.5") that will take 277 thread like this one will? 

 

[brmax]

Quite the machine in them thread sizes, now I'm curious on the gear set in the hook area.

There is no doubt this series is making good use of the direct servo drives like many of these new Manufactured designs.

Really appreciate the heads up on whats out there, now I need to look into the two different pitch adjustments on these, interesting for sure.  I recall a few members have the 2810 and may be able to chime in on some of these particulars as well.

Thanks again for the information

Floyd

[gottaknow]

I'm loving the new direct drive Juki motors. I have about 35 of them in service. Not a single issue so far. Really cleans up the whole machine.

Regards, Eric

[Uwe]

2 hours ago, soccerdad said:

Thanks for posting this, Uwe. Makes me wonder: Are there machines in the $2,500 range with similar arm length (about 14"), cylinder diameter (about 1.5") that will take 277 thread like this one will? 

 

The  short answer would be "No" I'm afraid. One might be able to modify a standard machine to come close, but I've not seen a commercial machine with the specs you listed.  I recently stumbled upon a video by upholstery virtuoso and machine whisperer "Cechaflo" on youtube where he shows how to modify a garment-class vintage flatbed machine to be able to handle thicker needles and thread. The modifications may be similar to make a slim cylinder bed machine deal with thicker thread. I've not attempted any of this, so I can't say how well it might work. You'll be changing tiny bobbins holding just few windings of thick thread all the time, no matter what.

 

[gottaknow]

I could make my old 241's do this too, but first off, it's a drop feed machine. Then there's the small bobbins that you mentioned Uwe. I do know that with this size bobbin, you can sew about 7-8 yards with T135. That's it. After modifying the basket and shaving off the needle guard, you could never sew the fabric it was intended to, not to mention you can bend a needle bar pretty easy on both this series and the 281's. And most of all, your stitch length is going to be all over the place. In the opening segment, he was pushing and pulling the material through. He also didn't cross any seams. The 241 series were a decent garment machine in their day. I still keep a couple set up in our training school. Guys like this tend to annoy me because they get other folks butchering their perfectly good machines with so-so results. Maybe I'm just grumpy today after a nice 3 day weekend.

Regards, Eric

[soccerdad]

Thanks for the reality check, guys. I was afraid the bobbin size alone would be a deal-breaker. Unfortunately, an $8K Juki is not in the budget. Thanks again.  

[JMWendt]

On 5/31/2016 at 3:23 PM, gottaknow said:

I could make my old 241's do this too, but first off, it's a drop feed machine. Then there's the small bobbins that you mentioned Uwe. I do know that with this size bobbin, you can sew about 7-8 yards with T135. That's it. After modifying the basket and shaving off the needle guard, you could never sew the fabric it was intended to, not to mention you can bend a needle bar pretty easy on both this series and the 281's. And most of all, your stitch length is going to be all over the place. In the opening segment, he was pushing and pulling the material through. He also didn't cross any seams. The 241 series were a decent garment machine in their day. I still keep a couple set up in our training school. Guys like this tend to annoy me because they get other folks butchering their perfectly good machines with so-so results. Maybe I'm just grumpy today after a nice 3 day weekend.

Regards, Eric

Yeah, his initial stitches were all over the map on length.  Small to big.  This seems insane.  Why do this?

[Kohlrausch]

On 31.5.2016 at 11:23 PM, gottaknow said:

I do know that with this size bobbin, you can sew about 7-8 yards with T135. That's it. (...) Guys like this tend to annoy me because they get other folks butchering their perfectly good machines with so-so results.

Hi,

this may seem a stupid thing to do in leatherworker.net, where a majority of members each seem to have half a dozen 441-clones minimum. But in German fora (forums) the question for a cheap way to sew thick material comes up about once a week. Typical budget: 250 to 300 Euros. That doesn't buy you a working leather machine with servo, but it could get you going if you are willing to do some tinkering. If you aren't doing production work on belts or upholstery 7 yards doesn't seem so bad, either. That would be sufficient for half a dozen big dog collars or one long "wedding seam" to join upper deck and hull for folding kayaks. And nobody would ever see the stitches, as they are hidden inside. I think, for small budgeted laymen cechaflos tips are quite useful.

 

Greets

Ralf C.

[shoepatcher]

I think Uwe meant the $8K price was for the -7 machines which are the ones that have all the toys.  A plain Jane machine should be in the $5,500.00 or less category.

glenn

[Hockeymender]

5 hours ago, Kohlrausch said:

Hi,

this may seem a stupid thing to do in leatherworker.net, where a majority of members each seem to have half a dozen 441-clones minimum.

 

Greets

Ralf C.

I'm not sure what members you are referring to, I only have one 441 clone. I would be willing to bet that most here have only one.

I think Eric's point is well taken, people watch a video, and then attempt to do something they really shouldn't do because they or the machine is not up to the task. That ends badly. Always. I think the small budgeted layman can find himself in a world of hurt if he steps into what is for him, uncharted territory.

[Uwe]

It seems I've hijacked my own topic! The relative merits of certain sewing machine hacks probably deserves its own topic.

I'll check with MJ Foley on actual real-world end-user pricing of the Juki LS-2342  models. The $7-8K ballpark figure is what the Juki guy at the trade show stated for the base model, somewhat hesitantly.

Edited June 2, 2016 by Uwe

[gottaknow]

21 hours ago, Kohlrausch said:

Hi,

this may seem a stupid thing to do in leatherworker.net, where a majority of members each seem to have half a dozen 441-clones minimum. But in German fora (forums) the question for a cheap way to sew thick material comes up about once a week. Typical budget: 250 to 300 Euros. That doesn't buy you a working leather machine with servo, but it could get you going if you are willing to do some tinkering. If you aren't doing production work on belts or upholstery 7 yards doesn't seem so bad, either. That would be sufficient for half a dozen big dog collars or one long "wedding seam" to join upper deck and hull for folding kayaks. And nobody would ever see the stitches, as they are hidden inside. I think, for small budgeted laymen cechaflos tips are quite useful.

 

Greets

Ralf C.

If folks in Germany are looking for cheap, a much better machine to hack is the 211G151's. First off they are going to be in the same price range as a 241, but yet offer needle feed, a vertical hook, and the ability to raise the needle bar and convert to the 137x16 needle class for leather. They will sew and tension properly T135 with the heavier tension spring. Parts are cheep. Can easily be set for 1/2" presser foot lift without modification. Over the years, I've seen perfectly good machines ruined because folks didn't know how to go about making good decisions about modifying machines. I have a thread on a 211 that I rebuilt for a lady here that had been hacked to the point of near death. I was able to get it going again, but most people couldn't have fixed it and it would have ended up a boat anchor. I have modified hundreds of machines over the years, but always proceeding in a logical manor because I know what I'm doing.

Regards, Eric