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Posted (edited)

Gregspitz, thank for sending the video. That is some slowwwww sewing. Uwe.....the first industrial machine we ever purchased was the Juki. Since it had an English translation, I assumed all manuals would be that way. Owners manuals for every power tool I buy come in several languages. Again, yes I know I can call Bob. Calling Bob will be a last resort as I am guessing he stays pretty busy and I choose not to bother him with newbie questions. This is why I am asking on this forum. Every day I see posts from people asking details about machines and others sharing that info. I would like to hear from people who are using a Cowboy 538(or same type machine branded with a different name)in some kind of business or hobby. Back to needle size, thread range and other minutia....thought that would be in the manual and it might be. I just can't read Chinese LOL.

Edited by stickandtin
Posted

Ron,

 I thought by know you would know you can call anytime you need to with a question.We have already talked 5-6 times & went over everything with you about needles,thread,sewing thickness & etc.Yes,the Cowboy manual is Chinese that's why we sent the other one.You did get 2-manuals correct?.It is just a real basic fairly easy machine to operate not much different than the 1541S.Just able to handle thinner material better.

Here's our needle & thread chart maybe that will help?

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

 

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted

Hi Bob, I know I can call you anytime and I appreciate that. I just didn't want to trouble you with basic questions that I felt could be asked/answered on the forum. I'll give you a call next week. Thanks!!

Posted

stickandtin ,

Regarding the Chinese manual, language became a huge problem when I started restoring my Claes machine, most every manual I found was written in German.  Google Translate was extremely helpful, even though in some languages (like German) words can have several translations, in such a case you choose one which is most relevant.  Here's the link I use.:  https://translate.google.com/#de/en/lager buchse

When you don't know the source of the language you want translated, you ask the program to identify it.  It's pretty cool imho.

  • 3 months later...
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Posted

I bet that the sellers of clone machines are not allowed to include the original manual for the juki or adler or whatever was cloned for copyright reasons, so they include the next best thing, the wear noodles version.

Any reputable dealer will certainly tell you which manual will work for your machine and where to download it over the phone after the sale.

Incidentally i found a manual that is identical page for page to my techsew 5100 manual from a chinese site except that it had a whole nuther page of adjustments dealing with stitch length matching in forward and reverse that is not in the manual that came with my machine, or in any of the other resellers manuals..... (an "value added" selling feature some of the clone people use to sell their machines)

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

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Posted

That's funny! I don't care what anybody says.

I would be interested in that whole nuther page someday, I recall someone else also mentioning this great information possibly from an original Juki manual they picked up. whata find

good day

Floyd

 

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Posted (edited)

I believe this is what you are looking for, I have not done it, I got mine working perfect with the shim method, so i am going to leave it. If i ever do a big re-adjustment i will try it. I am fairly certain that doing this adjustment requires re-timing other things after, so approach with caution. This is actually from the juki engineer manual:

441 reverse-forward balance.pdf

Edited by TinkerTailor

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

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Posted

I thank you Sir, at this time the cobra is spot on with this particular adjustment. Something I was curious in other pages and not finding the page in my manual was a needle bar adjustment/topside. I did remedy that with a call to the shop out there but afterwards thought a few more instructions as this in the manual would be better.  I guess sometimes in the long run holding back certain tips or adjustments can save grief as a company. I am going to keep an eye open for a juki printing or possibly one of the others

Floyd

  • Members
Posted

I wonder if the whole problem with the clones is that the casting on the front where the stitch length adjuster plate mounts may not be to spec and differs from machine to machine. This leads to inconsistency in the stitch length between two machines adjusted to the same spec. Also explains why the spi numbers don't mean anything on a clone, but do on a juki(or so i have heard)

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted
On 11/1/2016 at 7:00 AM, Sticks said:

Greg,

 is your machine a needle feed machine.

Would a roller foot on standard industrial work for straps you think.?

I already acquired a walking foot and so need to make this work somehow though.

my machine is needle fed yes....I think that should work..the only way I have found to test it is to do it yourself with the materials that you use regularly.

hope that helps ..

Greg Spitz MD,FACS Custom Watch Straps

922Leather

Gregspitz@922Leather.com

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