Trying to make a Round Knife

[Colt W Knight]

Yeah, its about 1/2" wide, and when I was looking it up, looks like they come in 14 and 24 TPI blades. Im not sure which one I have. Back when I use to buy these blades, I don't remember there being any options. You just bought Milwaukee portaband blades or generic.

[dirkba]

Hi Colt W Knight,

Congratulations on taking on the challenge and making a round knife.

I did the same 2 yrs ago after I read this post http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25315-head-knifei-want-to-make-one/?page=2

My own research clarified the difference between the 2 types of round saw blades.

The normal non tungsten tip seems to be favored more, because of a slightly higher carbon content. It helps to hold an edge longer.  Apparently those with the tungsten tips, you used, are not holding an edge so well. The steel is softer because the tungsten tips, which does the actual cutting, are the harder part of the blade.

 

You don't need to heat treat saw blades. They are already heat treated for the cutting job they need to perform - it is therefore possible that you could have softened the steel instead of hardening it.

Work with the round knife and see how it holds up. Now you know how to build the knife get the proper knife steel and make another one.

This hobby becomes addictive....trust me!!

 

 

Edited July 11, 2016 by dirkba
added link

[MADMAX22]

Those portabands are used by alot of knife makers, even ones that have a nice big band saw. 

As far as the knife great job. 

The steel in the very old circular blades use to be high carbon and great for blades, the new ones because as stated have inserts for the cutting edges are not always the best steel. If your lucky its 80CRV2 or similar which heat treats similar to 5160 and is a great knife steel. The issue is you dont know so its always hard to get a good heat treat on them. 

If you want to get a good cheap steel try for some 1084, you can order some from NJ steel baron. The 1084 you can bring to non magnetic, soak for a minute then quench and then draw it back at like 350f for a couple of hours then work your way up to get the proper hardness. Pretty sure if I remember right alot of the old head knives were similar to 1084 or somewhere in that range carbon steel. 

One other thing on the handle if you can use the long setting epoxy, generally the longer it takes to set the stronger it is.