Stitching and punching?

[CaptQuirk]

I use a pair of hemostats for pulling the needles... who knew they could work for that? I also break needles like you wouldn't believe, always at the eye. What does the stitching palm do?

[Michael Sheldon]

 

 

I use a pair of hemostats for pulling the needles... who knew they could work for that? I also break needles like you wouldn't believe, always at the eye. What does the stitching palm do?

A stitching palm has a "thimble" sewn into the palm surface of the thumb, for pushing needles through.

If you are breaking eyes, something seems wrong. I can't remember the last time I did that. My guess is that you are flexing the needle in the hole trying to widen/loosen the hole. Or, you're not pulling straight out. Hemostats are useful things, but unless you are clamping in line with the needle from the end, you are definitely torqueing the needle to the side. That's why I like bent-nose pliers, I can keep the handles and the pulling force in-line with the needle.

You may also need to use heavier needles.

[CaptQuirk]

I am buying cheap needles... just a guess? Not flexing them or torquing them as far as I know. I use the diamond awl and wiggle it a bit, to help make the hole a little larger for the needles to pass easier, but I obviously haven't got it quite right yet. I have also found that the blunt end of the needle penetrates flesh easily.

[MADMAX22]

The awl is an essential part of hand stitching and learning how to use it takes some time. Something that you have to have some patience with. The pricking irons are meant to provide a nice path for your awl to finish the hole for your thread. Matching the awl blade size to the needle and thread is essential in getting a nice looking stitch. The exception being thin leather. 

That tandy crap is the reason people have big holes that detract from there stitching. 

The biggest issue people face with awl's is that they dont get them sharp and polished which makes stabbing the leather difficult which leads to pokes and what not. A properly sharpened awl will cut thru a 1/4" of leather without much effort. Watch some of armetage videos or some of the other good ones out there. 

[CaptQuirk]

I got an Osborne awl. Does that count as Tandy crap? I have no idea what names are best, and just buying cheap until I can learn to use it... just like all the other newbs

[bikermutt07]

 

The awl is an essential part of hand stitching and learning how to use it takes some time. Something that you have to have some patience with. The pricking irons are meant to provide a nice path for your awl to finish the hole for your thread. Matching the awl blade size to the needle and thread is essential in getting a nice looking stitch. The exception being thin leather. 

That tandy crap is the reason people have big holes that detract from there stitching. 

The biggest issue people face with awl's is that they dont get them sharp and polished which makes stabbing the leather difficult which leads to pokes and what not. A properly sharpened awl will cut thru a 1/4" of leather without much effort. Watch some of armetage videos or some of the other good ones out there. 

Wait a minute..... There are different awl sizes to sort out as well? Well that explains a little more of the mystery.

Dang it.

[MADMAX22]

 

Wait a minute..... There are different awl sizes to sort out as well? Well that explains a little more of the mystery.

Dang it.

Different length awl blades, usually the shorter ones are narrower/longer are thicker somewhat. It is up to you to fine tune the size. Also not having the edges to sharp after the first part of the awl so your spreading the leather more then cutting it. That allows the leather to close up around the thread some but ya gotta watch and see how guys do the stitching where they poke the leather pull out the awl and the needle goes right in. 

[bikermutt07]

 

Different length awl blades, usually the shorter ones are narrower/longer are thicker somewhat. It is up to you to fine tune the size. Also not having the edges to sharp after the first part of the awl so your spreading the leather more then cutting it. That allows the leather to close up around the thread some but ya gotta watch and see how guys do the stitching where they poke the leather pull out the awl and the needle goes right in. 

I'll keep trying.

[billybopp]

Not only are there different lengths and widths of awls, there are also different blade shapes to sort through.  

 

Below, you'll see a few different awls, presented over a thick double layer of leather edge on, as you'd have is you were sewing it.  

On blade profile:

The left one is a piece of crap expensive Tandy 4 in 1.  It is the classic saddler's awl shape, which to me looks like a spear point.  Mine is probably sharpened a little pointier than the classic, but as you can see in the picture it will make a bigger hole on the side that you poke from(front side) than on the back side.  Because of the shape, you also must be very careful about the depth you use in order to get the hole size consistent.  In other words, it's pretty darn difficult to use. You'll see a lot of these out there that are the same shape, but much better tools than the Tandy version.

The next three are Seiwa awls in three sizes.  The point is broader, and the sides are straight after the initial point.  This will give you a hole that is the same size front and back of the hole. To me, they look like a broadsword.  These are my go-to awls.  You choose the blade size that suits the thread that you are using, and I usually use #2 with .8mm thread.  Another advantage of these, and the spear point awls is that if you are using a pricking iron the tip of the awl will settle nicely into the slit that the iron creates and will really help you to get the angle right.

The one on the right is an Osborne awl, and as you can see, it's pointier sort of like a rapier.  It does work well, but requires a little more care to get the angle correct.  I find them a bit hard to use for that reason.  A lot of people will snip the tip off this type of awl to give it a broader tip.  It is also tapered, but not nearly so much as the spear point awl, and will give a slightly bigger hole on the front side than on the back, but not nearly so drastic as the spear point.

On Length:

I prefer to use a shorter awl rather than longer where possible.  As you hold the awl in your hand, a shorter awl tip will move around less than will a longer one as you move your wrist, making it easier to get the holes just where you want them, and easier to get the holes straight front to back.

On handles:

The Seiwa awls come with flat sides on the handles.  This helps to keep them from rolling around, but more importantly, you can feel the flat in your hand and know that you have the blade in the right orientation without having to look (at least after awhile).  they also fit my hand nicely.  If your handle is round, don't hesitate to modify it to suit your hands and flat-side it to help orient the blade!  You also may want to put a little leather washer at the base of the blade so that if you push a little too hard and go deeper than intended it will cushion the leather and not leave a bezel shaped impression on your work!

On care:

Many blades are plain ol' steel.  As such, they will rust if you're not careful.  A little bit of wax can help prevent rust, and some find that it helps the awl slide through the leather.   They will also stab you when you reach into your storage space to grab 'em.  A wine cork makes a great blade guard, and can also be helpful as a backer when you're sewing the thin stuff.  Not to mention the pleasure of getting the cork in the first place. 

On sharpening and polishing:

The awl needs to be sharp, sharp, sharp and polished like a mirror to help them just glide through leather.  You should be able to go through a half inch of leather and halfway through your finger before you even notice it (as most everybody does a time or two).  I'd like to tell you that I've mastered the art of sharpening, but I haven't.  I'm getting there, tho!  If you have good stones, use them.  If not, sandpaper on a glass surface works pretty well!   Nigel Armitage has a pretty good video on sharpening an awl.  Bear in mind that as you sharpen and polish, you are to some extent also forming the blade profile.  Not a problem, just be aware of what you're doing as you work!

Hope that all helps!

Bill

 

[MADMAX22]

Thanks billy alot more info then Ive got time to put together right now. Forgot about using the cork plug for the back side.