Juki 1508 NH VS Juki LH 2810 S-S

[MattG]

Hi There,

After a bit of Saving I am looking at buying a new machine. Either the Juki 1508 NH or the Juki LH 2810 S-S.

I like the 1508 NH because it can use  Tex 207 thread. But I also like the extra room of the LH 2810, unfortunately the the max thread on the specs is  Tex 138.

I am mostly using Tex 138, and maybe sometimes for some webbing work Tex 207.

Does anyone here has the juke 2810 S-S and can it take Tex 207 even though it is spec at Tex 138 max?

 

Thank a lot

 

Matt  

[brmax]

I have heard there is not enough factory machined clearance on the feed dog, issue is between the hook and the feed dog surface, I believe it screws up the proper loop formation on big thread, this is in the last 3 years. Fyi, no offense that's some home work for you to look into and this with lighter thread, but I do like the machine arm clearance just couldn't afford it. Here on the site is a few with machines for sure using them, try a search here or google search with this site in the string.

Floyd

Edited September 16, 2016 by brmax

[shoepatcher]

MattG,

I talked with Matt at MJ Foley in Detroit.  They are the largest Juki dealer in the US.  You can run #207 thru a 2810.  It will sew it. 

glenn

[MattG]

Thanks a lot for that Shoepatcher!

Matt

[brmax]

It is possible from the brochure the 2810A-7 model shows to have available this large needle feed dog # 40125925 so this maybe possible to have the clearance, but without photos its tough to say. This below photo is the particular conversation I thought interesting and followed,  and as you can see "after this finding" some new products were modified and a process for some pro editions machined. It is in a google under the feed dog issue with some searching.

Anyway the left in black is the 1508 showing plenty of room and these others below the 867 and 2810 one modified a bit trying to remedy this issue and the other right a standard, these making issue with the larger size ptfe thread primarily.

I would like to say both these model machines are nice and I would like to own either and this information was just mentioned in trade so hope it can help, as one can see a bit of work can address this particular issue.

The other feed dog part numbers shown in brochure are 40133270, and 40133272 this may help in choosing options or in discussion.

good day there

Floyd

[MattG]

thanks floyd

[brmax]

Your welcome Mat

Which ever you decide on, enjoy it and keep us posted with some great photos of your projects.

 

good day

Floyd

[R8R]

Necromancing this thread because I am looking at both of these machines as well. Any strong opinions/pros/cons for either one? I'm leaning toward the 2810 but I'm wondering if it's an equally heavy duty machine or is it just bigger? The price difference to the 1500 series machines is noticeable for the features you get, probably because the 1500's are still made in Japan.

[R8R]

On 11/15/2017 at 6:53 PM, R8R said:

Necromancing this thread because I am looking at both of these machines as well. Any strong opinions/pros/cons for either one? I'm leaning toward the 2810 but I'm wondering if it's an equally heavy duty machine or is it just bigger? The price difference to the 1500 series machines is noticeable for the features you get, probably because the 1500's are still made in Japan.

Anyone? If you had to buy again, would you have picked a different machine?

[brmax]

If you handle the price of the 2810 then consider the Durkopp Adler 867. There are so many cloning the 1500 series Juki its pittifull. The NH is a bit different than the others. If i hadn't stumbled upon a 1508nh brand new in govt surplus auction, I had only one other on my mind, the 2810. Im not sure even today if it could best the 1508NH although if I found a deal as I did but the 2810 it would be in my shop. 

It really depends what exactly you want to do, honestly.  This specfic needs brought up to be accurate in your purchase. Just remember most items that are made anywhere are or can be easily stitched with an old standard they all look up to still today the Singer.  If your looking for a machine this place here is exactly where you want to hash them out. Many great ideas have been used in the redesign of the old machines so its really possible ( not by me ) but others to pin point designs implemented from others to just plain newer machines and even their clones. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[R8R]

I looked at Durkopp Adler. Really nice stuff. However - the DA 867 is at least 50% more expensive than the 2810 and has very similar specs. (and replacement parts I am sure are INSANELY expensive) 

I'm not considering any of the Juki clones really. If I can get a decent used 1508NH I might go for that but the high and wide arm on the 2810 would be great for trickier/bulkier bag items and wider swatches.

 

My dream setup right now would be a 2810-7 and a 2342-7...

[shaybutlerknives]

What did you end up getting?  Same situation here. Looking at the 1508nh and the 2810 for wallets b

[R8R]

10 hours ago, shaybutlerknives said:

What did you end up getting?  Same situation here. Looking at the 1508nh and the 2810 for wallets b

I just paid for a 2810 at a local shop, picking it up next week. I'll post a review of it up in here once I get some time on the treadle. I was gonna go for the 2810-7 but I decided I'd see how I like the basic machine first before I shelled out for thread cutter, direct drive, etc. 

Also the basic belt drive machine uses whatever motor I want, (as apposed to the fixed power on the direct drive models) so I can add a 1 hp servo and a speed reducer, etc.

[R8R]

I had checked out a 1508N, a 1508NH, a 1541s, and a 1508NH clone.

I also breifly owned a 1560N. (sold it cause I didn't need a double needle)

I'm going to say initial impressions of the 2810 is that it's better than all of those. Like ... way better. In my limited testing so far, it climbs over assemblies easily, no flinching or stalling and just seems to sew smoother than the other Juki's in this range. Most people seem to say the Japanese made machines are inherently better, and I think in the near past that was true, but I see little to no difference so far in build quality with this Chinese made machine. Fit and finish is very nice. Time will tell how it holds up.

If you are not familiar with the newer Juki flat beds, the overall design is super cool - no shafts or bearings exposed, everything is housed under a full length top cover, including all the feed mechanisms. It's "semi-dry", all the auto lubrication is from a tank and tubes to the lower feed parts and hook. Seemingly, all the upper drive components are sealed bearings or grease. Not much manual oiling to speak of.

The one I got is the "A" Euro gauge variety, shares common feet with Adler 467, etc.

Auto-feed feature on the bobbin winder is super cool. There is a thread knife/thread clip on it, and when you trim the thread the clip holds it in place. Stick a bobbin on it, throw the release lever and the thread spools onto the bobbin automatically - no need to pass the thread through the bobbin hole and hold it while it starts, or trim the excess. Super quick and brainless.

My hand is in the pic for scale. This is a monster flat bed. I'm 6'4" with large hands. This makes a Singer 111w look like a Singer 221.

More pics and impressions once I get more treadle time on it.

 

 

[Rustic]

What is the difference between the 1508, 1508n, 1508ns, 1508nh, 1508h????

[AdamPCain]

Very nice that thing is a beast.

[Tejas]

13 hours ago, Rustic said:

What is the difference between the 1508, 1508n, 1508ns, 1508nh, 1508h????

 

lu1500n.pdf

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Good looking machine, best of luck with it.

 

[R8R]

6 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

Good looking machine, best of luck with it.

 

Thanks! Was going to order from you but a local shop made me a deal I could not refuse. We might talk motors in the near future though.

Edited February 6, 2018 by R8R
Spelling

[R8R]

20 hours ago, Rustic said:

What is the difference between the 1508, 1508n, 1508ns, 1508nh, 1508h????

On some Juki models "S" denotes "safety", as in it has a safety clutch.  (ex: DNU-1541 does not have a safety clutch, DNU-1541S does)

On others (often the second or third letter behind the model number) like in the 1500 series, it denotes "standard" gauge, as in it uses the "standard" Singer style presser feet and throat plates, etc.

"A" typically denotes it is "Euro" gauge (Adler style feet, etc)

"H" means "heavy".

 

All the specs for every current machine are on the Juki site, and for older models a web search will turn up manuals and spec sheets for just about anything.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

19 hours ago, R8R said:

Thanks! Was going to order from you but a local shop made me a deal I could not refuse. We might talk motors in the near future though.

No worries, glad you got things worked out.  

[shaybutlerknives]

On 2/4/2018 at 11:09 PM, R8R said:

I had checked out a 1508N, a 1508NH, a 1541s, and a 1508NH clone.

I also breifly owned a 1560N. (sold it cause I didn't need a double needle)

I'm going to say initial impressions of the 2810 is that it's better than all of those. Like ... way better. In my limited testing so far, it climbs over assemblies easily, no flinching or stalling and just seems to sew smoother than the other Juki's in this range. Most people seem to say the Japanese made machines are inherently better, and I think in the near past that was true, but I see little to no difference so far in build quality with this Chinese made machine. Fit and finish is very nice. Time will tell how it holds up.

If you are not familiar with the newer Juki flat beds, the overall design is super cool - no shafts or bearings exposed, everything is housed under a full length top cover, including all the feed mechanisms. It's "semi-dry", all the auto lubrication is from a tank and tubes to the lower feed parts and hook. Seemingly, all the upper drive components are sealed bearings or grease. Not much manual oiling to speak of.

The one I got is the "A" Euro gauge variety, shares common feet with Adler 467, etc.

Auto-feed feature on the bobbin winder is super cool. There is a thread knife/thread clip on it, and when you trim the thread the clip holds it in place. Stick a bobbin on it, throw the release lever and the thread spools onto the bobbin automatically - no need to pass the thread through the bobbin hole and hold it while it starts, or trim the excess. Super quick and brainless.

My hand is in the pic for scale. This is a monster flat bed. I'm 6'4" with large hands. This makes a Singer 111w look like a Singer 221.

More pics and impressions once I get more treadle time on it.

 

 

Mine is ready to go and got the call to pickup ... or at least sew it off.  After reading this - think i will stick to the 2810... assuming you are just loving it.  The place I ordered mine owns a manufacturing plant and they supposedly built me a custom feed dog that is guaranteed to not mark the leather.  Yet to see it ... so who knows.   If you end up doing a video or something - hit me up - would love to check it out

[shoepatcher]

The Juki 2810 is a copy of the Adler 867 with cost saving of about 25--33% over the cost of the Adler.    What I have seen of it, great machine.    Yet to sew on one but have looked at them at MJ Foley which is the largest Juki dealer in the US.  Bigger machine , longer throat, higher lift, new bobbin winder system, central lubrication.  New generation machine over the 1508 and the 2210.  I believe if you get the 2810-7 which has the toys, cost is around $5,200.00.  The Adler 867 with toys is over $7,000.00  You do the math.

glenn

[R8R]

14 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

The Juki 2810 is a copy of the Adler 867 with cost saving of about 25--33% over the cost of the Adler.    What I have seen of it, great machine.    Yet to sew on one but have looked at them at MJ Foley which is the largest Juki dealer in the US.  Bigger machine , longer throat, higher lift, new bobbin winder system, central lubrication.  New generation machine over the 1508 and the 2210.  I believe if you get the 2810-7 which has the toys, cost is around $5,200.00.  The Adler 867 with toys is over $7,000.00  You do the math.

glenn

2810-7 street price is closer to $4600. The super full loaded 2828A-7 is about $5500 (extra big bobbin, short thread trimmer, etc.)

 

I looked at the Adler stuff and it's super nice but not 50% nicer, which was typically how much more it costs. Juki parts and accessories are easier to get in this neck of the woods too.

 

So far this machine is everything I hoped it would be. I swapped the stock Family servo it came with for a 750w servo with a synchro and it's working great.

[R8R]

Here is a little DIY trick I did for the synchronizer. On the 2810 basic model there is no holes or bushings for a synchro mount, so I took a small piece of aluminum U-angle and drilled it to fit under the screws on the back cover. Works perfectly and no additional holes needed to be drilled in the machine or the table.

Thought this pic was funny... scale reference next to my Ultrafeed clone...