Boriqua Posted October 1, 2016 Report Posted October 1, 2016 I know .. sounds like a dumb question but maybe not. As I was buffing out of some leather today after the dye dried I got to thinking that there may be a better way. Basically I have a bucket of old cloths that have become rags and I cut off a section and buff until my elbow suffers internal bleeding or the dye stops coming off. but I remember when I was in the service and we had to have them boots polished everyday that some guys used lighter fluid, some guys including myself used to use pantyhose. Man a little warm breath on the boots and then a finish polish with pantyhose and they shined up nice... to be destroyed first thing in the am with some PT. I have even seen buffing machines. and I have seen some guys mount buffing pads to wood. So since so many hear have their own concoctions for beeswax finishes and resolene cut amounts i thought .. maybe someone is doing their buffing in a way I hadnt thought of. Alex Quote
Members Tugadude Posted October 1, 2016 Members Report Posted October 1, 2016 I simply apply carnauba cream and then rub with an old rag. Happy enough with the results. Quote
bikermutt07 Posted October 1, 2016 Report Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) I have a pair of black wranglers that split out. I haven't made it up one leg of them yet making buffing rags. It removes the excess dye pretty well and does a good job buffing the Aussie on and off. Edited October 1, 2016 by bikermutt07 Quote
Boriqua Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Posted October 1, 2016 hmmm denim for removing the excess dye ... see I am already glad I posted. That makes perfect sense and then follow up with something softer. Quote
Troy I Posted October 1, 2016 Report Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) After wet forming a holster and letting it dry, I apply a light coat of Montana Pitch Blend...let it sink in for an hour and then buff... there is very little rub off. I then apply 1 to 4 light coats of Renaissance Wax Polish, buffing between each coat. For M1907 Rifle Slings I dip dye and the after it is dry, I apply a light coat of Belvoir Leather Balsam, wait 10 to 15 minutes until dry, then buff until there is no rub off--then comes the Renaissance Wax Polish...1 to 4 coats, buffing between each coat. Edited October 1, 2016 by Troy I Quote
Members OLDNSLOW Posted October 1, 2016 Members Report Posted October 1, 2016 I have used some of the micro fiber towels to buff off after the dye, the only color I seem to really have a problem with is black, on some items I have rubbed for days and still get some rub off. I have looked in to getting one of the buffing wheels that goes on a shoe repair machine, the brush it's self can run anywhere from 40 to 100. When I did call one company they wanted to know how I was going to use it and even stated that if I was going to be using it at greater than 1750 rpms they wouldn't even consider selling to me. Their thinking was that rpm was to high and would burn the leather. I have gone to HF and bought some buffing wheels and attached them to the motor I use for burnishing to use on black and it worked ok. If you take a look at prince leather he uses a shoe buffing brush on attached to a motor with one of those cables like the ones for a Dremel. and I remember the days of lighter fluid and spit shined boots over 40 years ago but never manty or panty hose maybe some old drawers specially in the barracks. Quote
Members Harry Marinakis Posted October 29, 2016 Members Report Posted October 29, 2016 Burnish the leather to a shiny surface before the leather dries. When fully dry, finish with Resolene, and then buff with a paper towel Quote
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