Cjrademaker Report post Posted October 13, 2016 How to you manage the humidity in your shop? I do a lot of vegtan tooling and shaping so I've always got projects drying. I have noticed that as my production volume has increased the leather has begun to dry noticeably slower. This makes sense of course as more projects means significantly more water trying to evaporate into the same amount of air. The obvious answer would be to add a dehumidifier, but I dont want to find myself over drying the leather by mistake, either the projects in progress or my hides in storage. I used to work at a tandy so I've seen some once beautiful hides turn into an almost unworkable dry sheet, I would hate to do this to my stocks. Anyone got a number for a good target humidity? Might adding more airflow over the drying area be enough? I'll be experimenting with a few things in the coming weeks of course but I wonder if anyone has wrestled with this issue before. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill46 Report post Posted October 13, 2016 No I don't have an answer for you, As I struggle to find the same solution for my newly aquired shop bldg. I'll be anxious to look over your sholder for an adiquate answer, Thanx for asking this question ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted October 13, 2016 without taking leather into consideration, I have been running a dehumidifier for the purpose of preventing my reloading equipment from rusting up. So now that there is leather and leather tools I have kept running it at the same level of dehumidification and the machine is set at 45 %. I really don't know what an appropriate level would be, but all my stuff is in the garage and I find myself emptying the bucket everyday, if you run an A/C unit and it runs constantly it is going to do the job for you. I don't have the luxury of running an A/C unit so I run one of those small units to accomplish what I am after, of course winter is a whole different story but I will continue to run the dehumidifier in the winter like I did last year. For those of us on the east coast or Midwest where it is real humid it is a completely different set of problems in comparison with those that are in say Arizona, Texas etc where humidity is low. I don't think I have helped much here but maybe food for thought how one person handles it. Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 14, 2016 Size of the area and how enclosed will make a difference. Stacked hides don't lose / gain moisture as quickly as separated hides. And what is " a lot of vegtan tooling and shapin" may not be a lot to the next person. Too many variables to be able to set "a number". Air set about 35% - haven't had any problems. I make a point of not having more than 15 hides at a time around here - which is easy enough.. I aint buildin' saddles Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted October 14, 2016 I would start with some good air flow first. As JS said how sealed up your shop is will play into it as well. Good air flow will not get below ambient humidity but will help move air to maintain that level of humidity and its a cheap step. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Sioux Saddlery Report post Posted October 14, 2016 Humidity in the summer is a huge problem where I live. Air conditioning helps. When the daytime humidity gets in the 80's and 90's, mold grows on leather in just a couple days. I always have a shop full of used saddles and harness, and that is way worse than new leather. GOOD new leather takes a long time to grow mold. Cheap new leather doesn't take very long. Used leather equipment that has grown mold in the past sitting in an outbuilding will contaminate everything else in the shop. During the humid days in summer, I run a dehumidifier 24/7 both in my house, which is AC and the shop, which isn't. It is a constant battle for a couple months. I also spray Lysol spray around the used equipment and places where there isn't much airflow. It helps. I heard once that tanneries use the active ingredient in Lysol to control mold issues. Think of the humidity they have to get rid of in a tannery!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted October 15, 2016 Wanted to add that I use bleach deluted in water in a spray bottle to kill mold, its pretty much the active ingredient in most mold control stuff you buy at lowes and home depot. It will not soak into wood very well and mold can live deep down in all types of material. Its a constant battle up here in NW WA where it rains for about 6-9 months out of the year. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
