RandyScott Report post Posted January 8, 2009 Billy, right now I am using the 000 needles tandy sells, but I've been looking for some 004's that are a little smaller in diameter. the 000's are great needles, but just a little tight when using theses small blades.Marlon Campbell-Bosworth list the CS Osborne Harness Needle in Size 4: OS-517-4 http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/i.../sort/3a/page/4 or http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/p...products_id/938 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 8, 2009 Thanks Randy, That may be just what I'm looking for. I don't know why I didn't think to look at Campbell. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ladybug Report post Posted January 9, 2009 Marlon Did you say you think cost of a Main awl is approximately $38?? And how often do you need to sharpen.. That is my biggest problem with this leather work.. I don't do so great sharpening my tools Thanks JoAnn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) I don't do any mass production of articles, so take my info with a grain of salt. I sharpened mine when I bought it, just because that's who I am. I think anything can use improvement even if it's perfect. However, I haven't sharpened it since and that's been a year or so ago. I do strop it before a project to keep the edges honed though. If you have a problem maintaining your tools, I suggest Al Stohlman's Leathercraft Tools book. This is probably the biggest gem in his works, and it helps you understand how to use, maintain and protect your tools. Very good instruction. Edited January 9, 2009 by Rawhide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pelallito Report post Posted April 18, 2010 (edited) Marlon, Could you post pictures and perhaps the dimensions of the awls along with the punched holes? Do you know what steel Peter M and Bob are using in their awls? Thanks for your help. Fred PS I read further in the thread that had this link and found the dimensions and photo. Thanks again. I don't do any mass production of articles, so take my info with a grain of salt. I sharpened mine when I bought it, just because that's who I am. I think anything can use improvement even if it's perfect. However, I haven't sharpened it since and that's been a year or so ago. I do strop it before a project to keep the edges honed though. If you have a problem maintaining your tools, I suggest Al Stohlman's Leathercraft Tools book. This is probably the biggest gem in his works, and it helps you understand how to use, maintain and protect your tools. Very good instruction. Edited April 18, 2010 by Pelallito Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ToddB 68 Report post Posted September 7, 2010 First thing is to look at your awl blade. It's probably too big for consistent stitches. Once you've got a decent awl, next step is to maintain the same angle when stabbing the holes. If you have to put the awl down, then use the last hole stabbed to re-align your awl to the proper angle. Here's a sample of awl sizes. The holes are rather carelessly punched, but you get the size idea. As you can see the Tandy's are WAY too large for fine handstitching. Peter's blade and Bob Douglas' blade are perfect and essential for perfect stitching. You can also get good results with the osborne, but stay away from the Tandy ones. Especially the ones that come in the 4 in 1 pack. Peter and Bob's blades are only tapered at the very tip, so the rest of the awl blade is the proper width. To regulate the depth of a blade, punch out some washers of skirting leather and stack them on you blade this way they act as a stopper. Hi Rawhide ! Thanks for your very helpful post ! I'm going to try my hand at making my own awl. ( I have a haft with an adjustable chuck.) Looking at your attached photo, the stabs are diamond-shaped of course, but it also appears that the awls were "hollow ground", rather than just flat ground on each side. I think a hollow ground blade would cut better with less resistance as the awl is pushed through leather, especially when working with thick leather. I will be hand stitching two pieces of 12oz Veg-tanned to make a tool sheath. I have been reading the Leather Tools forum topics here and have picked up a lot of information to aid my endeavor, such as putting a high polish on the awl, keeping the tip extremely sharp and sticking the tip into Bees wax to make insertion easier. I also have awl dimensions in mind, i.e. cross-sectionally the diamond will be approximately 1/16" x 1/8" and the length about 1-1/2". I have back-ground in metallurgy and heat treatment and also have the equipment needed, so feel prepared for the challenge ! Can you tell from looking at your awls if they were in fact hollow ground ? (Maybe laying a straight edge across the awls and holding up to a source of light would reveal this.) Thanks in advance for answering my question and for any comments or advice you care to give. Hope you enjoyed the Labor Day weekend ! ToddB64 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted September 9, 2010 Hello Todd, My awls are NOT hollow ground. What happens is the awl cuts on two edges and pushes the leather aside on the other two. The hole is opened long enough to sew it, but the leather tends to try and mend itself. This is why it appears the awl is a hollow ground blade. Marlon Hi Rawhide ! Thanks for your very helpful post ! I'm going to try my hand at making my own awl. ( I have a haft with an adjustable chuck.) Looking at your attached photo, the stabs are diamond-shaped of course, but it also appears that the awls were "hollow ground", rather than just flat ground on each side. I think a hollow ground blade would cut better with less resistance as the awl is pushed through leather, especially when working with thick leather. I will be hand stitching two pieces of 12oz Veg-tanned to make a tool sheath. I have been reading the Leather Tools forum topics here and have picked up a lot of information to aid my endeavor, such as putting a high polish on the awl, keeping the tip extremely sharp and sticking the tip into Bees wax to make insertion easier. I also have awl dimensions in mind, i.e. cross-sectionally the diamond will be approximately 1/16" x 1/8" and the length about 1-1/2". I have back-ground in metallurgy and heat treatment and also have the equipment needed, so feel prepared for the challenge ! Can you tell from looking at your awls if they were in fact hollow ground ? (Maybe laying a straight edge across the awls and holding up to a source of light would reveal this.) Thanks in advance for answering my question and for any comments or advice you care to give. Hope you enjoyed the Labor Day weekend ! ToddB64 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites