My very first leather holster

[JLSleather]

Shopping list:

• Fiebing's oil dye
• pony from Tandy
• stitching awl from Tandy

 

[carguy4471]

11 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Shopping list:

• Fiebing's oil dye
• pony from Tandy
• stitching awl from Tandy

 

Lol.  Stitching awl wasn't on the list.  A reason why I don't want that pony would be good though.  A vise wasn't very conducive to good posture and caused some strain after a while.   

 

[billybopp]

USMC black does indeed take a whole lot of buffing ... I found out the hard way, as the OP did, before I started coming here and reading about it.  But it begs the question, why do they still sell the stuff?  Does it have some use that I'm not aware of?  Is there some use for it that justifies all that work?

[carguy4471]

2 minutes ago, billybopp said:

USMC black does indeed take a whole lot of buffing ... I found out the hard way, as the OP did, before I started coming here and reading about it.  But it begs the question, why do they still sell the stuff?  Does it have some use that I'm not aware of?  Is there some use for it that justifies all that work?

I can't answer that but I do know I'm not looking forward to buffing all the crap off tonight.   Hopefully a shop rag or burlap will get the job done.

[JLSleather]

Menards has a 1x4 (need about 8'), two screws and a bolt -- for about $6.  That's all that tandy thing is, and the menards version lets you make it to a height that suits you (and less flimsy).

They're not particularly suited to belts, either. Something with jaws about 6" wide works better (and 8" wouldn't hurt)

While yer at menards, buy one 10d nail.  Pound it into an awl blade -- it'll be sharper than the one from tandy.

As for buffing, I have not yet found anything works better than an old t-shirt... worn and soft.  Use the wife's... so if you run out it dont matter

With the heavy black, wet teh rag, and WIPE (not buff) the first pass.  This will remove flakes and particles which can scratch teh surface of your leather.  I'm talking wet, but not dripping rag, so the leather will get damp, but not soaked.

Then buff -- don't need to wait for it to dry first.

Edited December 7, 2016 by JLSleather

[carguy4471]

21 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Menards has a 1x4 (need about 8'), two screws and a bolt -- for about $6.  That's all that tandy thing is, and the menards version lets you make it to a height that suits you (and less flimsy).

They're not particularly suited to belts, either. Something with jaws about 6" wide works better (and 8" wouldn't hurt)

While yer at menards, buy one 10d nail.  Pound it into an awl blade -- it'll be sharper than the one from tandy.

As for buffing, I have not yet found anything works better than an old t-shirt... worn and soft.  Use the wife's... so if you run out it dont matter

With the heavy black, wet teh rag, and WIPE (not buff) the first pass.  This will remove flakes and particles which can scratch teh surface of your leather.  I'm talking wet, but not dripping rag, so the leather will get damp, but not soaked.

Then buff -- don't need to wait for it to dry first.

That's what I needed to know there.  Hopefully it doesn't take me all dang night, I was hoping to mold that sucker this evening.  

[JLSleather]

5 minutes ago, carguy4471 said:

That's what I needed to know there.  Hopefully it doesn't take me all dang night, I was hoping to mold that sucker this evening.  

Even better.  Tear an old t-shirt into pieces about 8x8 (or 10x10, whatever).  Point is, one shirt go a long way.  Wet one piece, wipe both sides, set that piece of to the side (if you hang it over something, it doesn't mildew and it's reusable).  Wet another piece, wring 'til damp, buff.  When teh rag is collecting black particles (dye is in fact pigments suspended in liquid - you're buffing off the 'chunks' that didn't penetrate), change the rag to a clean one.  Whole thing probably won't take you 10 minutes once you have the stuff ready to go.

Then while it's already damp anyway, go on mold the holster.  You'll buff it again with a clean cloth once it's almost dry from forming.

You'll pick it up quickly -- black polishes up nicely and shines even without finish on it.

Edited December 7, 2016 by JLSleather

[Mattsbagger]

I made a stitching pony with a piece of Cedar fence and a 4 inch piece of 2X4 and 6 drywall screws. I use a clamp to keep closed. Not pretty but works. Also don't forget to wrap ends of pony in leather so you don't mark up your leather.

[Mattsbagger]

[carguy4471]

6 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Even better.  Tear an old t-shirt into pieces about 8x8 (or 10x10, whatever).  Point is, one shirt go a long way.  Wet one piece, wipe both sides, set that piece of to the side (if you hang it over something, it doesn't mildew and it's reusable).  Wet another piece, wring 'til damp, buff.  When teh rag is collecting black particles (dye is in fact pigments suspended in liquid - you're buffing off the 'chunks' that didn't penetrate), change the rag to a clean one.  Whole thing probably won't take you 10 minutes once you have the stuff ready to go.

Then while it's already damp anyway, go on mold the holster.  You'll buff it again with a clean cloth once it's almost dry from forming.

You'll pick it up quickly -- black polishes up nicely and shines even without finish on it.

So I'm not buffing with a dry cloth at all then.  Just a wet one to clean it off and then a fresh clean one to buff.   I can deal with that.