Mattsbagger Report post Posted December 24, 2016 As stated in title is a IWB holster BASICALLY a pancake style holster with no belt slots and clips,straps or whatever you prefer mounted in place of the belt slots? Thanks,Matt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted December 24, 2016 CAN be, but not necessarily. I've seen holsters with both belt slots AND loops (removable) so it would be used either way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted December 24, 2016 16 minutes ago, JLSleather said: CAN be, but not necessarily. I've seen holsters with both belt slots AND loops (removable) so it would be used either way. Yep the good old one size fits all. But never really works that way does it? Lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted December 25, 2016 I feel like doing them that way makes them too stiff. So I cut it so the clips ride on posts where the slots would be. Lets the holster flex more, which I think it more important IWB. Where as OWB flex means it's not holding the weight as well on the belt. Kinda Milt Sparks VM 2 ish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted January 5, 2017 Thanks. I just saw this. I don't understand why I don't get notifications all the time.lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted January 5, 2017 On 12/25/2016 at 0:31 AM, chiefjason said: I feel like doing them that way makes them too stiff. So I cut it so the clips ride on posts where the slots would be. Lets the holster flex more, which I think it more important IWB. Where as OWB flex means it's not holding the weight as well on the belt. Kinda Milt Sparks VM 2 ish. Okay, I didn't get this at all? Got a pic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted January 5, 2017 3 hours ago, JLSleather said: Okay, I didn't get this at all? Got a pic? Here is a pic of my preferred style for 2 clip/loop IWB holsters. It's cut to be more flexible on the side. I believe flexibility is important IWB, where stiffness is important OWB. One of the reasons I stay away from dual purpose IWB/OWB holsters. They do both OK but neither well IMO. One of the few IWB/OWB holsters I have tried. Luckily he loved it. But it's stiffer on the sides because it's nearly a solid 2 layer piece of leather. The belt slot really does not make it that flexible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted January 5, 2017 Ahh..thanks- now I got ya.I wasn't seeing the "posts where teh slots would be" part. -- gotter now. And yeah, flex is good. As a rule, I make IWB's much more 'shaped' than the OWB's... not just flat, but curved PAST flat... same idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted January 7, 2017 I tried drawing up a pattern like the VM 2 or Dwight's Cactus. I just plain and simple can't draw. So what I did was take your G27 pattern Jeff and cut it at the stitch line add 1/2 inch and put it back together. Front side only. It feels pretty good so far I'm used to appendix carry so it a little different for me. Will get a few more pics wI think it on and get up too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Oh yeah. Wife got me a makers mark and I managed to put it in the wrong spot.lol. Haven't done anything with the edges yet till I see if it works. Also it's a 5 spi. with 1mm Tiger. It looks like it's sewn with rope to me. Mabey because I've been doing small stuff at 8 spi with .08 tiger? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Matt, . . . just a little suggestion, . . . put the pencil away for a while. Literally use yellow manila folders to wrap around the gun, . . .or lay on top of the gun, . . . force it down around the weapon, . . . then get out the masking tape and scissors. Cut off the "excess", . . . tape back on where you took off too much, . . . re-cut, . . . keep playing with it until you can see laying on your workbench, . . . a reasonable prototype of what you want. Then use that prototype for the first "pattern". Cut out a sample of the main body from belly leather, . . . or boat seat vinyl from JoAnn fabric (it's great for quick patterns, . . . and about 10% the price of leather). That is how you learn to make patterns. Trying to sit down and draw it from scratch, . . . kinda like trying to do an M1A Abram's tank with a Lincoln welder. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Thanks Dwight. When I have a pattern to go from. It all makes sense. When I'm trying to come up with one it's like Greek written in Chinese characters. Lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Mattsbagger said: I tried drawing up a pattern like the VM 2 or Dwight's Cactus. I just plain and simple can't draw. So what I did was take your G27 pattern Jeff and cut it at the stitch line add 1/2 inch and put it back together. Front side only. It feels pretty good so far I'm used to appendix carry so it a little different for me. Will get a few more pics wI think it on and get up too. Okay, lost me again Took me a minute to follow that If you "stretched" the front panel, that would explain why the gun is so far from the stitch line. Couple comments -- I like cardboard for making patterns like Dwight is describing. Manila envelopes (which is where most of us start, since we've been told that) don't allow for thickness, and belly leather stretches too much to be very accurate (though it does allow for thickness). But a regular piece of corrugated cardboard (the 'honeycomb' stuff shipping boxes are made from) work well for that. Kinda roll it and flex it until it's softened up some, and then works okay. Personally, I usually just sketch on graph paper, and when I know I'm 'close', I make one from the same leather I'm going to be using for holsters. If it isn't quite "right", I'm out less than $10... which I'd pay just to not to have to go get the cardboard Graph paper, because if I like the design, but maybe it could move in or out "right in there" for about 1/8", tehn I just move the line over 1/2 of the 1/4" square on teh paper.. and vee oh la. And then I often keep a scan of it (because something ALWAYS happens to the original). Comes in handy when you find that the G19 is the SAME as the G17, but about 12mm shorter (each end). So just bring up the scan of the 17, re-draw the bottom 2 squares higher, and there's yer 19 As for "adding to the front".... coming soon ... Oh, yeah .. 5-6 stitch to the inch is about what I like for 2 layers of 8 oz. Edited January 7, 2017 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted January 7, 2017 I glued and stitched one side then glued and stitched the other side. It leaves a "pouch". The gun is TIGHT in the holster. Probably add a reinforcement on the mouth next go around but it doesn't collapse now. Stitch lines were left in same place as your original. There was just extra leather between the lines. It seems to help it wrap around more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted January 7, 2017 See, there's where I got lost. If you added material, then the stitch lines can't be in the "same place".. they would be further apart. I know what I think you meant but if there's 1/2" more leather, then the fit can't be the same. HEre's what I did with the G43... make it 'wrap', and if you've seen that video with the airbrush then you've seen me making a "pouch" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
