Jump to content
Adamuk

Adler 169—373

Recommended Posts

Hi folks I've recently purchased a Adler 169-373 to be my primary leather working machine. However I'm having a few problems.. and any advice would be greatly received..

1. Bevel gears grub screw so badly damaged unable to hold on shaft ( now replaced)

2. Max Stitch length is only about 4 mm when set even for back stitch.. can get 6mm forward but Max 3 mm in reverse.

3. Struggling to get a good stitch with thread over 20's

Timing correctly set using new 134 needles is there a ideal type of thread?

I'm beginning to think I've picked up a machine that's had a harder life than first thought but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What can I ask is the full number of the needle and also the thread size or ticket, that would help me a bit. I think were in metric talk just want to be clear with system.

Sounds like the gear screw was really messed up, so now the gear can be secured well eh!  good to get that repair done.

Any more pics are great maybe we can get the post together later.

good day

Floyd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, brmax said:

What can I ask is the full number of the needle and also the thread size or ticket, that would help me a bit. I think were in metric talk just want to be clear with system.

Sounds like the gear screw was really messed up, so now the gear can be secured well eh!  good to get that repair done.

Any more pics are great maybe we can get the post together later.

good day

Floyd

Thanks for reply Floyd,

Thread is coats bonded nylon

tex 135

Ticket 20

Needle system 134

Needle size 140 leather point

If this helps you

Cheers 

Adam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

What exactly is the struggle with the thread?

reg. stitch length - check this Video:

Many thanks for the video clip, however like the machine he was working on I've lost overall even Stitch length, guessing due to slightly warn parts (bearings and the large cam  etc) any way of adjusting further?

As for the thread with Tkt 20 I have to really wind the top tension up tight to get a uniform stitch. In my option way to tight ! Which in turn is causing the thread to bunch up at the left of the needle eye now and again, still getting the odd dropped stitch or a occasional loop on the back side, so frustrating... will probably try to replace the hook next although it looks in good condition ! In the hope of good stitches then re—address tension issues? Your thoughts welcomed..

 

2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You never know what the previous owner has sewn with the machine - if the setup worked for his purposes it does not mean it works for your purpose. Because of the top tension - either reduce the bottom thread tension or try a heavier spring on the top tension unit. College Sewing has heavier springs - check with them when they are back on January 3rd.  Not sure if this one is heavier as the one installed but I´m using it on my Singer 111 and other machines but they may have other heavy springs too.

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/B3114-232-000-BEEHIVE-SPRING-HEAVY-JUKI

An occasional loop on the back (could) mean you are loosening the top tension occasionally or have too much bottom tension occasionally. You could also try a needle 1 size bigger like 150 or 160 (metric). Are you sure the hole in the feed dog is large enough for size 20 thread + 140 needle? Post some pictures of your tension unit and how you have threaded the machine and how the stitches look. Make sure the thread is coming off the the spool w/o hanging and the thread guide of the thread stand is centered above the thread spool.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

C,

I believe the needle system  to use on this machine is a 134-35.  I have set a couple of the Adler machines at work up with 135x17 system.  The 134 system needle may be too short in length.

glenn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glenn, thats right - I also have set up my Pfaff 345 for 135x17 as well. So the needle system could be a reason for thread shredding - so check your needle hook timing - maybe you have to adjust the needle bar hight.

 

Happy New Year folks....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

C,

I believe the needle system  to use on this machine is a 134-35.  I have set a couple of the Adler machines at work up with 135x17 system.  The 134 system needle may be too short in length.

glenn

Thank you for the replys, I've some bits and bobs to get from collage sewing so will add the spring on the list good call !

As for the bobbin stand that's in the far right corner of the table I will have to move it to get the top guide directly overhead none of my other machines are directly over head but any thing worth a try

New feed dog so no burs/ needle strikes, all running smooth ... only 1 slight issue, the needle is very slightly off center (right) through the feed dog but still OK for clearance in my opinion, is there adjustment on the needle bar left and right as you sit at the machine? 

I have indeed tried the 134-35 x17 and adjusted timing and needle bar height accordingly again with poor results, but as the manual states 134 I have reverted back to this set up.

I will have another look next week and take some pics as I need this up n running by middle of Jan to work through orders etc

Thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don´t have to move the thread stand - maybe you misunderstood. Needles system it self is not too important as long as you have set up the needle bar hight correctly. The idea was that you are (probably) using 134 but machine is (probably) setup for 134-35 ~4mm longer than 134 or 135x17 ~5mm longer than 134 measured from shaft to thread eye. But when you have adjusted this it most likely is not the issue. My other thoughts I have posted in the earlier thread. Good luck.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To me, the Adler 169 really looks like a hybrid/transitional machine with an Adler 69 head and with a Duerkopp Adler 269 arm.

Since there are no Adler 169 manuals to be found, I'd take a closer look at the Adler 69 service manual for things going on inside the machine head, and the Adler 269 service manual for things that go on inside the arm.

 

Edited by Uwe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...