Hermit Report post Posted January 1, 2017 Hi! I am a newbie, have 4 dopp kit bags and a couple of bags under my belt. Each has many errors but I improve with each one, so I can live with that. My biggest problem area is I am terrible at dyeing and edge finishing. Other hobbies are spinning silk and wool, fly fishing, and cooking. Penny Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted January 1, 2017 Great edges take time and technique. The more time you spend on the the better they will get. I'm still working on the technique myself. One of the things I recently taught myself is this: After sanding and I can't get rid of the fringe that it makes I singe them off with just a little fire. It helps a lot. What dyes, how are you applying, and diluting? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptQuirk Report post Posted January 1, 2017 For edge finishing, get a bar of glycerine leather soap. Use a damp sponge, and wipe it on the bar, then on your edge. A lot of folks use either edge slickers, or wooden slickers, to get a good burnish on the edges. The leather artist Al Stohlman suggests a piece of canvas. I have just started using a nylon edge slicker myself, after using a piece of scrap leather, flesh side against the edge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted January 1, 2017 I will moisten the edge and let it sit for a few minutes and then rub that glycerine bar like I'm burnishing it. Then burnish, then dye the edge. Then gum tragacanth. Let the gum trag set up a few minutes, then burnish again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HavenHillJay Report post Posted January 2, 2017 bikermutt07, you asked about how he is diluting the dyes. What is common practice. I am trying to get more consistent at dying (and edging) as well. I use the Tandy Eco-Flo dyes most of the time. I used Feibings on one project and like the coverage but it hurt my lungs. I haven't diluted a dye ever so I don't know where to start. Any advise? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted January 3, 2017 The eco flow water based you can dilute with water. I have never used them though. I started out with fiebings and haven't seen a need to switch. Fiebings should always be used with good ventilation. You can also were a respirator for that. Most people shoot for a 50/50 mix to begin with and apply more coats to darken. I have always found 50/50 to be too dark for my tastes so I usually start at a 3 to 1 or 5 to 1 ratio. I either dip them or apply with dollar store sponges cut into thirds. If applying with a dauber or sponges make sure and get even coverage. Start across the piece going one direction. Then perpendicular, then diagonal. This will help even out the application. However, it will get dark quick. Hence the higher dilution ratio I use. For the fiebings spirit dyes people either dilute it with a solution from fiebings or denatured/isobuterol alcohol. I had been using featured alcohol, but decided to try plain old filtered tap water. It worked like a charm and I haven't looked back. The more you do this, the more of your own techniques will develop. As time goes on you will probably just dismiss me as some guy rambling on the internet who thinks he knows what he's talking about. Keep having fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HavenHillJay Report post Posted January 3, 2017 Thanks for the help bikermutt! btw, I am a member in good standing in the Rambler's club. Come on in, the water if fine! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted January 3, 2017 Ha! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hermit Report post Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) Thank you all for the information. I need to find where to get the glycerine bars. I did order a stamp on Etsy, came pretty quickly (a little over 2 weeks from Bulgaria.) I thought it would be bigger, but even so its pretty cool: This is all random, was trying to see how many times I should hit it with my light weight mallet to get a good impression. Now I want to make some Game of Thrones stuff and stamp all of it with this :D Edited February 8, 2017 by Hermit explain why it isnt lined up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptQuirk Report post Posted February 8, 2017 Weaver Leather has the Glycerine bars, but Tandy or Springfield should as well. If you have any horse places near you, check them first and save time and shipping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted February 8, 2017 38 minutes ago, CaptQuirk said: Weaver Leather has the Glycerine bars, but Tandy or Springfield should as well. If you have any horse places near you, check them first and save time and shipping. Probably save some money too. I hadn't thought about a feed store. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptQuirk Report post Posted February 8, 2017 29 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said: Probably save some money too. I hadn't thought about a feed store. I got my bar from the local True Value Hardware, that tries to be a farm and feed store. They had 1 bar, and that was months ago. Still haven't restocked it. They also had a few bottles of Fiebing's Dye, but I have left their shelves empty. They just don't bother to restock for one customer, and certainly can't be bothered to ask their supplier for something. They have Weaver's chicago screws in shiny nickle and brass, but can't get antiqued finish? No wonder WallyMart is eating them up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ordiedaddy Report post Posted February 13, 2017 I am also in Colorado. You can get glycerin bars at Sprouts or probably Natural Grocers. You can also look at Hobby Lobby at their glycerin melt and pour soap making section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted February 13, 2017 I noticed home depot has ten packs of snaps with setters for 5 bucks. They also had 3/16 eyelets with a pair of pliers for like 4 bucks. These were located next to the rivets, staplers, and hot glue guns. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hermit Report post Posted February 27, 2017 Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hermit Report post Posted February 27, 2017 For spinning wool, to properly pare long-wools, I use wool combs, either two or 4 pitch. The combs are fairly dangerous if you aren't paying attention, and are hard to take around to classes etc. My first leather project was a small set of covers for some mini-combs (top.) The red ones I made this weekend. Still lots of errors but I think I've improved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted February 28, 2017 Yes, you've improved! The red ones are excellent. Where u at in Colorado? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hermit Report post Posted February 28, 2017 boulder county Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
