Tap-offs

[bruce johnson]

I have used several tap offs for quite a few years. Have also followed this thread regarding making your own out of other materials, and references to the Gore tool ones. A few considerations. The Gore tool referred to are not tapoffs, they are cutting plates. Tapoffs leave a line to cut with the swivel knife. The cutting plates actully cut the line, much like a cookie cutter. The lines are raised to a depth that allows the outline to cut onto the leather. Tapoffs are recessed and leave a raised line to cut,actually they depress the leather around the line.

I have had cutting plates from Gore, traded them off a few years ago. I currently have a lot of plates from Richard Fletcher. He casts them, and has several "stock" flowers, leaves, and a few silhouettes. He has done some custom ones for me out of laser engraved Delrin. The plates from Richard do not have handles. They are designed to be used with a press or tapped with a mallet. The plates with handles tend to break at the joint of handle and plate if the plate is very large. Besides, Richard, Jeff Mosby in SC makes plates also, although I believe only Delrin at this stage, no casting.

Bruce Johnson

[bruce johnson]

I forgot about one other maker of cutting plates in my previous post. Harper Manufacturing in Las Vegas, NV has some listed on their website. I have not used their's nor no of anyone who has. Several have their maker stamps and are very happy. \

On a sad note, I have just heard from two different sources that Mitch Botts passed away. He was one of, or the, principal behind Gore Tools along with Jay Lynn Gore. I mentioned them in the previous post.

Bruce Johnson

[Blake]

Hello Bruce

Thank you for the clarification on the taps and cutters. A poor choice of descriptive words on my part and exposure of my limited knowledge about some of the methods.

I have been curious about the laser engraved Delrin masters so if you would like to elaborate a little on your experiances I am sure it would be appreciated by all. What is the approx. cost per item?Its always good when you can get first hand opinions. Can you post a picture and an impression of one?

I have always made my tap offs from leather mainly because they were quick and convienant and The other big reason for me is that I could make them to work with specific tools that I already have which in turn shortened the tooling time on gear that I was making. When you do it for a living, That has to be taken into consideration. I have leather tapoffs that were made many years ago and used hard . They still have life in them so I can't complain about the investment .Heck, I even have some given to me by Bob Dellis just before he passed away that he tried to use up over the years.

That is indeed sad news about Mitch Botts. If I remember correctly, He was Jay Lynns Brother in Law and the machinest behind the company . Mitch will be missed by the community and I hope his passing will not

change the company as they are one of the best out there. Good solid industrial srength tools.

Kind Regards

Blake

[bruce johnson]

Blake,

Pictures of some of Richard Fletcher's plates and the impressions can be seen on his website (www.leathertool.com). His pictures are probably better than I can do. I bought several plates off ebay when he was running specials to raise money for new equipment. I have bought some directly from him, and bought about 20 or so at the Sheridan show. He has them is several sizes from belt flowers and leaves up to 3inch or so. The custom Delrin flower I had him do ran me about $80, I think. The others were in sets from $10-20 per plate on the specials. The big plus for these plates is the speed and consistancy. I did an emergency oak and acorn belt for my son in less than an hour stamping time total. Stamped in the leaves and acorns, cut in the stems, and tooled and backgrounded. The Delrin plates work better for me in the press (a shop press), The cast plates I use a maul held vertically on the plate (head side down the spread the blow), and hit the handle end with another maul.

I also have a pretty good selection of tapoffs, and they have their place too. I am working up patterns that incorporate the cutting plates and stem work into a tapoff for corners, crosses, and the like. Hope this helps.

Bruce Johnson

[The Major]

You can also use the plastic used in making diorammas for simulating water, but you will need to use a mold release agent.

I have also been using fibreglass inforced bondo to make tap offs as well as stamps.

[Little John]

Looking for the thin plastic sheeting that is used to make craftaids. Any idea where I might buy some.

lj

[Blake]

Looking for the thin plastic sheeting that is used to make craftaids. Any idea where I might buy some.

lj

Hello L J

That mat'l has changed several times over the years. Some of the early templates became brittle with age. I don't know how much you need but any plastics company (JOBBER) should carry something similiar. I would check your yellow pages.. I have bought small sheets in small quantity from Hobby Lobby for various applications. Maybe someone on the list with more knowledge about plastics can tell us the exact pedigree.

Blake

[CitizenKate]

I have also been using fibreglass inforced bondo to make tap offs as well as stamps.

Shawn, can you share some of the fine points of fabricating a tap-off or stamp with bondo? I tried this, but the results I got were somewhat promising, but in the end not very useable. The biggest problem I had was creating the mold to pour the bondo into.

Edited September 16, 2006 by CitizenKate

[The Major]

Shawn, can you share some of the fine points of fabricating a tap-off or stamp with bondo? I tried this, but the results I got were somewhat promising, but in the end not very useable. The biggest problem I had was creating the mold to pour the bondo into.

Well, for tap-offs you really dont need a deep mold. For those I use a piece of 10/12oz to make the mold cavity around the design. For tap-offs I dont use bondo, I use that acrylic plastic resin train modelers use for water, either the pre-liquid stuff or the stuff you melt is fine. If you want to use bondo double the thickness.

For stamps. use the bondo. the rule I use is for 1 to 1 1/2" square stamps, your mold cavity needs to be a minimum of 3/8" thick. Bigger than that, I would increas it about 1/8" for every 1/2" larger your stamp gets.

For molds I use mold cavities I machined , but you can also use vulcanizing molds that jewelers use for casting. You can also use wood, or leather. It really doesnt matter.

As for the base design goes, your cuts need to be fairly deep. But also somewhat wide, so the bondo can penetrate in the cuts and details.

And just dont forget to carve it backward.

I will try to get some pics posted this week on how to do it. I am also trying to get a sheet made up on lace making. But I am still waiting for them to switch over to the 36 hour day so I can have more time. LOL

Let me know if I can answer anymore questions if I didnt get specific enough.

Edited September 16, 2006 by The Major

[Bennyg11]

I know this is a very old post but I am trying to find out if anyone makes tape off to order. I dont feel I could make one that would do the pattern I need justice.