Help New Leather Worker

[Brianm77]

Well then maybe what I have are not pricking irons.  They have straight prongs long enough to go through more than 10 or 12 oz of leather.  Some craft-sha som seiwa and some cheapie from amazon that I have also been pretty happy with. 

[Mattsbagger]

Yep probably chisel not pricking irons. Chisel Japanese style. Pricking irons European style. Overstitch wheel American/Western style. Stitch groove is mostly Western style. Scratch line/crease is more common in England and Europe. Nigel Armitage has some awesome videos on hand stitching styles and techniques also reviews. Well worth the time to watch. IMO

[strathmoredesigns]

On 2/8/2017 at 8:29 PM, rameyleathercraft said:

My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather?

I'm having a similar problem. I bought an inch wide 4 oz. strip from Tandy to use for a camera strap. I wiped it down with Fiebing's Deglazer first, then applied about 3 coats of Angelus Light Brown Leather Dye (alcohol based). It also seemed to come out really dark (quite similar to a Chocolate Brown one I made last week). I don't know if the dark color is because I used 3 coats or just the nature of the dye. I used that many because that's what it took to get an even finish. Anyway, I let that dry (I may have helped the drying process along a little with a hair dryer set on cool and low), then applied two coats of Eco-Flo Super Shene. My strap looks a little darker than expected, but still good. My main problem is that the grain side edges are sort of curling inward and the whole thing so much stiffer than the bit of scrap I have left over from my original strip. I applied a light coating of Dr. Jackson's Neatsfoot Oil this afternoon, but haven't really noticed a difference. It's still quite stiff and the grain side edges are still curling inwards.

From this feed, I've gathered that:

• I should get my leather from somewhere other than Tandy (I have some import strips ordered from Springfield, not Herman Oaks, I know, but I'm still pretty new and making lots of mistakes. Anyone know how Springfield's import strips compare to Tandy's strips?)
• I should apply neatsfoot oil before I apply my dye to help get an even coat. Should I wait for the oil to dry completely or should it still be some level of wet, and if so, how wet?

A couple of things I'm still wondering:

• Is there anything I can do to soften/salvage the strip I've made now?
• I've only put the neatsfoot oil on the grain side so far, but I don't actually know if that's the correct way to apply it. Is this product grain side only or should the flesh side also get a coating?
• The manager at Tandy also mentioned putting the oil on between the dye and Super Shene. I haven't tried this yet, but what do you guys think of this idea?
• Could I be applying too many coats of dye which in turn could be drying out my strip and/or causing the color to be so dark?
• I also have, but haven't used, some Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner. Would using that help at all? If so, grain and flesh sides?

Any thoughts are appreciated!

 

[Mattsbagger]

Leather will alwaye lighten when flexed. Whats happening is where it flexed you are steering the dye. Only way for it not to happen is to dye with it flexed. Like fully make and form a holster then dip dye. Does that make sense? Any dye will dry leather out a bit and the more spirit in it to thin it will make it worse. I put neetsfoot on after dye is dry. let it sit 24 hrs then finish. I have also used Aussie to condition and finish. First things first though is to buff with a dry cloth until your arm falls off or no dye picks up on the cloth. Then use a DAMP not wet sponge and swipe across to get any remaining pigment. Pigment is a solid that is absorbed in to the leather via the spirit in the dye. Don't put neetsfoot on the flesh side and don't use much. I have a 4 oz bottle just finished and it was bought in September. Used on probably 20 items or more. Can alway add more but can't take it out. It can make leather soggy if over used.

[bikermutt07]

About dyeing, put a light coat of full strength and then walk away for a day. Do not rub on it while it's still wet. The next day buff it like Matt said. Then apply another coat if needed. If you apply neatsfoot oil prior to dying, I suggest a day for that to absorb as well.

Slowing everything down makes for better products in leather.

Apply Aussie to the grain side (camera strap) and give it a day or two to absorb. Then buff it. Should soften it right up.

Any conditioners you use you will want to apply before leather sheen, spray lac, or any other finish.

[strathmoredesigns]

Thanks guys.

Well the good news is that I've managed to be pretty judicious in my neatsfoot oil usage so far (the stuff scares me a little - seems like a disaster waiting to happen), so I should be well placed to follow the rest of your suggestions. Aside from removing excess color, does the buffing soften the leather at all? Do you buff both grain and flesh sides? So you use Aussie to finish, are you not also using something like a Super Shene? Next time I'll apply my Aussie before my Super Shene. 

[bikermutt07]

7 hours ago, strathmoredesigns said:

Thanks guys.

Well the good news is that I've managed to be pretty judicious in my neatsfoot oil usage so far (the stuff scares me a little - seems like a disaster waiting to happen), so I should be well placed to follow the rest of your suggestions. Aside from removing excess color, does the buffing soften the leather at all? Do you buff both grain and flesh sides? So you use Aussie to finish, are you not also using something like a Super Shene? Next time I'll apply my Aussie before my Super Shene. 

I just use the Aussie. You can add super sheen after. Buffing is only going to remove any excess and make it shine a little. I only buff the flesh side if I have slicked it down. Otherwise it will cause more fluff.

Don't be too scared of the neatsfoot oil. You have to put quite a bit on there to overly saturate it. One of the holster makers, Andrews I think, slather on two coats with a dauber to sunbake his holsters. He is, however, sunbaking them for a day or two.

Yes, you can overdue it and ruin your project. I haven't yet. How much is too much? I'm not sure yet.

Edited February 21, 2017 by bikermutt07

[Mattsbagger]

I find it easier to put a light coat on and see how fast it soaks in. I always let it sit for a day but if it soaks in as I'm putting it on will go a little heavier. 

[Mattsbagger]

Also carnauba cream and leather balm with atom wax are good conditioner and finish. There are a few guys that swear by Dr. Jacksons hide rejuvenater all available at Tandy. 

[strathmoredesigns]

Thanks for the tips. I left it alone yesterday after I put on the neatsfoot oil, so today I'll try buffing and the Aussie.