Service manual adler 220

[sandyt]

Hi people,

Is there a service manual out there? I have been searching for a few weeks now, but I can't find it.

I am looking for timing marks for the shafts and belt. I can not find anything that looks like timing marks. I tried manuals for a singer 144w and a consew 744r which should be almost the same machine, but they do have timing markings which the Adler doesn't have in that place.

I want to check these markings because the machine is not perfect in time. It sews, but not as smooth as it should.

Sandy.

[Constabulary]

I don´t have one but afaik the Singer 144w is pretty much the same machine too so maybe you can find something for this model

[sandyt]

Hi!

The bottom (area with safety clutch) is a bit different. And the stitch length adjustment is very different. 

Don't know how this affects the basic adjustments though.

I will try to find more manuals. Maybe I will find something helpfully. 

I 'just' need to know if the belt is correct. If so, I will just start adjusting randomly, until I find the adjustment for retarding the needle down stroke. And keep the presser feet in synch.

Sandy. 

[Constabulary]

probably depends on age and subclass. AFAIK Singer even sold Adler's 220 as their Singer 144w when they no longer produced them by their self (not too unusual). I´d check with Bob at Toledo Sewing Machines or Gregg from Keystone Sewing Machiens - they are long time dealer and for sure have lots of old records back to the stone age.

[sandyt]

I will first try to Polish my German a little bit and try some German forums. My machine comes from the German army. Perhaps I will find something in German.

Thanks for your hints about age and subclass. I guess I have to download every file with 'singer 144w' in it on the entire Internet,   haha.

Sandy.

Edited February 11, 2017 by sandyt

[Uwe]

There's a chance that the lack of synchronization marks is due to fact that the shafts may not need to be synchronized.

On the Adler 220 the front/back movement of the feed dog is directly linked to the stitch length excenter on the top shaft. The hook position can be adjusted freely and is not tied to the top/bottom drive shaft synch position. 

The only thing potentially affected by the relative top/bottom drive shaft position is the up/down movement of the feed dog. There's a little excenter on the bottom drive shaft that moves the feed dog fork up and down. If that excenter can be independently adjusted, there's really nothing left to synchronize between top and bottom drive shaft, which would explain the lack of synchronization marks. I don't know this for certain yet - moving my Adler 220 from its storage spot to verify is not practical right now.

On most machines with a triple feed walking foot design, the general rule for vertical movements of needle, inner presser foot and feed dog is: When the descending needle tip is level with the top of the throat plate, both the descending inner presser foot and ascending feed dog should also be level with the top of the throat plate. This should be easy to verify.

One other timing aspect that affects smoothness of a machine is the relative position of the thread take-up lever and the hook. Verify that the thread take-up lever is at its very bottom position exactly when the thread wraps around the farthest point of hook. If that is not the case you may get thread snapping noises and other unrefined side effects. 

Edited February 11, 2017 by Uwe

[Uwe]

In the absence of a service manual for the exact machine you have, a manual for a close relative or successor model is the next best thing. The Durkopp Adler Manuals Resource page actually has a full set of documentation listed for the Adler 221, including an Adler 221 service manual. With a little luck, there will be a LOT of carryover from the Adler 220 design.

 

 

[sandyt]

It took a while, but I finally had some sewing machine time. 

That 221 manual is great!! Why did I not find that one. Found a few, but not as detailed as this one. 

I walked it through and it seems to be the same machine as the 220 as far as I can see. It explained all the adjustment 'thingies'.

The machine is sewing smoother now. I did all the adjustments what needed to be adjusted with the same measurements. 

The eccentric for the feed dog fork can be adjusted Uwe. I thought one screw should be in the groove of the shaft,  but the manual said it can, but it doesn't have to be. I think that was why I kept heaving 'trouble' before.

Only thing left, is the numbers on the stitch length adjuster are not corresponding to the real stitch length. 1 to 5 are almost 0. The adjustment is between 6 and 10. Not a big deal excualy. In the future I will look to it when it's getting annoying, haha.

Just for information:

The original feet are a little big. Great for big work this machine is build for, but for fine work to bulky. I changed them with durkopp feet (from a normall size compound feed machine) I had laying around. They fit almost 100%. Only needed very little tinkering. 

To everybody, thank you for your time! This realy is a great forum.

Sandy Tjokrowidjojo. 

 

[shoepatcher]

The Adler 221 replaced the Adler 220.  We have two 221 Adler here at the plant, one 20", one 30".  I have a 20"  Adler 220 at my home and I feel it is a better machine than the 221.

I also have a Singer 144A204.  Singer never had Adler make any 144W's for them, they were all 144A models.  The "A" standing for Adler.  These machines were Adler 220's in everything but name and paint color.  I have also never been able to find a service manual for the 220,  The 221 manual will work fine.  These machines use a 7x23needle system.

The stitch length dial can be adjusted on the main shaft to correspond to the correct length.  Should be a screw to adjust the wheel the stitch length is on.

glenn

Edited March 6, 2017 by shoepatcher
forgot something

[Willbury]

On 3/6/2017 at 3:37 AM, sandyt said:

The original feet are a little big. Great for big work this machine is build for, but for fine work to bulky. I changed them with durkopp feet (from a normall size compound feed machine) I had laying around. They fit almost 100%. Only needed very little tinkering. 

I'm just getting a 220 up and running and looking to replace the boat feet that came with it.  I'm curious what mods you made to the adler feet you used and what Adler machine models would those feet originally be found on?