Leather backing

[mojave]

Hi ,  I have made holsters and belts, but I haven't not stamped or carved any of them.  I brought some coast rounds from Springfield Leather and a BK Starter stamp set in order to teach myself.  My question is, would I need to put a backing on the rounds?  Also, is their a rule of thumb as to when to use backing on leather?

Thanks,  Howard

[alpha2]

The Tandy rounds stretch a bit when stamping or carving. I don't know how thick the Springfield rounds are. I didn't back mine, they turned out alright for practice rounds. They did turn out just a bit "concave" after stamping. I don't think I'd go to the extra effort of backing for practice pieces. Actual work that thickness would benefit from backing though.

[NVLeatherWorx]

You don't necessarily need to back practice leather but if you want to see how the quality of your work looks as if it were to be the final piece then I would recommend that you try some later practice pieces with a backing.  I use duct tape to back my smaller items, especially those that are made with the thinner leathers (less than 6 oz.) and it works perfectly.  Using duct tape also gives a bit more freedom moving the piece around as I tool the various elements and also helps keep the leather from curling during the drying process.  I even do my final staining with the duct tape still attached.  I prefer this method over any of the other suggested methods because once you remove the piece from the tape there is no glue/sticky residue that would require to line it and I rarely line items as it gives the appearance of "cheap" to the finished item (for evidence to support this, just take a good look at a pre-fab kit and you will get what I am saying).

Besides, as you refine your stamping/tooling skills those practice rounds can start to become leather coasters that you can make some money off of.

[nrk]

1 hour ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

You don't necessarily need to back practice leather but if you want to see how the quality of your work looks as if it were to be the final piece then I would recommend that you try some later practice pieces with a backing.  I use duct tape to back my smaller items, especially those that are made with the thinner leathers (less than 6 oz.) and it works perfectly.  Using duct tape also gives a bit more freedom moving the piece around as I tool the various elements and also helps keep the leather from curling during the drying process.  I even do my final staining with the duct tape still attached.  I prefer this method over any of the other suggested methods because once you remove the piece from the tape there is no glue/sticky residue that would require to line it and I rarely line items as it gives the appearance of "cheap" to the finished item (for evidence to support this, just take a good look at a pre-fab kit and you will get what I am saying).

Besides, as you refine your stamping/tooling skills those practice rounds can start to become leather coasters that you can make some money off of.

agree mostly.

there is a 'but' against a tape usage - when untaped, it makes a kinda roughness on the flesh side, which requires some additional work to be done, to make it smooth again.

how do you fix it? 

 

[NVLeatherWorx]

5 hours ago, nrk said:

agree mostly.

there is a 'but' against a tape usage - when untaped, it makes a kinda roughness on the flesh side, which requires some additional work to be done, to make it smooth again.

how do you fix it? 

 

I simply rub it down with a large bone folder; don't burnish it though.

[mojave]

Thank you all for your responds.  Sorry, it took so long in replying, forgot I had a shooting match at the local range today.  I do use painter tape on the inside of belts, that was for protecting it from the dye.  Tonight I'll give the carving a go.

Thanks again,  Howard