mixmkr Report post Posted February 27, 2017 This has been suggested and it seems to be working best with this really slippery PTFE Tenara, 138 equivalent thread. If threaded per normal, (and the 3 hole thread guide horizontal) the thread just "pinches" out of the disks at any tension adjustment. This way it isn't going anywhere. Anybody else find they have to do this for some instances? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted February 28, 2017 mixmkr, That setup should keep the thread in the tension discs. I have used that on numerous machines over the years. Machine looks nice! glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) This is the best I could come up with on short notice, check out the threading; once more through the thread regulator, three hole post before the tension assembly. Next, go under the pin, and then follow through like before. The thread will never come out again, but one more item, over time, will suffer from a thread cut over extended time, and some will eventually begin to cut the thread. You can then either replace the pin or the tension complete, at that point. Again, it should take years unless you are using fiberglass thread or Mitchells round emory cord through it. Edited March 1, 2017 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mixmkr Report post Posted March 1, 2017 Thx Gregg. I initially had the pin in play but coming off the top disc rather than using tbe pin BEFORE the disc like you suggest. Not running a lot but maybe 1500 yards of ptfe thread a week, I felt best not to use tbe pin at all because of wear Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimTimber Report post Posted March 1, 2017 Is this to add tension or remove it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mixmkr Report post Posted March 1, 2017 Thanks Jim,... neither to add nor remove tension. The problem I was having (using a very slippery ptfe thread) was the thread was wanting to "pinch out" when the discs were opening and closing and not stay put. Once "popped out", of course then I basically had no tension, immediately seen in my stitching. Gregg... this pic shows how I originally threaded, but like my latest solution (pic in the first post in this thread) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted March 1, 2017 10 hours ago, JimTimber said: Is this to add tension or remove it? This 'fix' is to prevent the thread from losing tension; what can happen is the thread can pop out of the top of the tension disks, and ride on top of them instead of sandwiched in between them. But if you are asking, yes, this will and more tension, overall, threading it through the pin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mixmkr Report post Posted March 1, 2017 Jim....here's how the thread ends up after "popping out" or as Gregg states riding on top of the discs. Seems with the 3 whole guide higher than the tension discs, this would be a common problem. But with my old Poly thread, it doesn't happen. ONLY my really slick PTFE thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SolarLeatherMachines Report post Posted March 1, 2017 "Really slick" is the operating term. We see this a lot with new machines and poly thread. Our solution is to take the discs off and run the inside of the disc surface against 600 grit paper. Seems to fix it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tejas Report post Posted March 1, 2017 I frequently use PTFE Tenara V-92 equivalent thread, threaded as you describe as "originally threaded" but with an additional loop -- four-hole guide vs three-hole -- with no problems on a Juki 1508. However, the 1508 thread-path cascades through two tension disks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites