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Chayse

Juki LK 1852 Bar Tacker

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Need some advice and opinions please...I have a chance to pick up a one owner Juki LK 1852, 28 stitch bar tacker for a VERY good price....what say you ole wise ones of this forum? I know that it is designed to sew one stitch and it has one purpose....I am intrigued?

 

Thoughts, opinions, criticism welcome...

 

V/r,

 

Chayse

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I Know that this may not be a 'Leather Sewing' machine and may not belong in this section...mods, feel free to move...just looking for honest info..... Here is  question....would it sew leather...it can run 92 thread...? If so, what possible ounce or what possible function would it have on a leather project, if any? Thanks!!

 

V/r,

 

Chayse

 

 

 

 

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It will be useless for leather, bartacker machine will do 1 thing only zig zag ing back and forth on very limited width.

If you design leather bag with cotton webbing handle / strap, It will do bartack / reinforcement on it. 

 

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Thanks patria...it is intriguing because I do work with nylon, not only leather. Hmm...it is tempting, just solely on the price point alone. With talking with the owner, he bought the machine for a project...now he is moving on...at $400, compared to the price of a new machine, if it works as advertised, it may be worth the purchase. The machine is only 8 months old....all this info is solely provided by the owner, as I can not verify.... The price includes factory table and motor also....which is 110v, which is also an added benefit for me.

Edited by Chayse
added information

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i have researched the limitations of the machine....it is designed to do one thing and one stitch. I guess if I wanted to produce some nylon dog collars and leashes pretty quick, it would work like a champ. Understandably, I know this has nothing to do with leather or leather working...I am just looking for opinions solely based on the machine, I guess. I know Juki is a reputable brand in the business, however, I think I would tend to lean toward the older...all metal versions compared to the mass produced machines they make today....there is just something about metal parts that scream longevity! 

I know this thread will get more views than responses but I was just inquiring with all of the knowledgeable folks on here, as I lack the sufficient knowledge when it comes to this....this is just one of those occasions where the collective knowledge base of this forum applies.

Thanks

 

Chayse

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There's a Camatron converted Singer here with a Box-cross configuration for sale at $300, and it works per the owner.  One program size, one set of cams, no real adjustments to speak of.  A great deal if that's what you need, a $300 paperweight if it's not quite perfect.

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Those cams can get expensive to change things up....I guess these would be considered a 'niche' type machine....Thanks JT for your input

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There's a lot going on, on the drive side of that platen.  Neat to watch, not so neat to try to reverse engineer.  :)

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The Juki 1800 series are good tackers. A 28 stitch machine is good up to 1/2" long max, 3/8" long is ideal. That's for woven fabric. Jeans belt loops are set with a 28 stitch machine. A 42 stitch is good for 1/2" to 7/8" length. I have a 1852 with a button tacker cam that's a workhorse.  I'm also still using 2 Juki 900 series, and a 1900 series pattern tacker. Juki's only weakness on their cam driven tackers is the pin that holds the roller in the main cam groove is prone to breaking. Quick fix for me, not for novice mechanics. 

It will handle up to T90 bonded on the needle. I always use a smaller thread for the bobbin. Makes a much nicer looking tack. I have used mine for tacking leather neck loops on jackets without issue. 135x16 needle size 100/16. That's with T60 poly/cotton thread. 

Regards, Eric

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9 hours ago, Chayse said:

Thanks patria...it is intriguing because I do work with nylon, not only leather. Hmm...it is tempting, just solely on the price point alone. With talking with the owner, he bought the machine for a project...now he is moving on...at $400, compared to the price of a new machine, if it works as advertised, it may be worth the purchase. The machine is only 8 months old....all this info is solely provided by the owner, as I can not verify.... The price includes factory table and motor also....which is 110v, which is also an added benefit for me.

Are you sure about that?  

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Info was provided by the owner..let me dig up a pic...

20170330_120113.png

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@gottaknow...thanks for the indepth info on the machine! If i go look at the machine, anything special i should pay attention to...besides the machine stitching properly/stitch quality? 

Edited by Chayse
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Bring what you need sewn with.  Will it do it (can the machine punch the holes and make a lock), will it do it satisfactorily (loops on the back side, unable to pull the top thread up, etc)?

I bought a $10 no name Chinese made "instructors" belt off amazon to free up one of my 5.11 Tactical belts from my hunting clothes (only used a couple three weeks a year) and also to see what they were delivering for that "bargain" price (5.11's are $32 on sale and worth the $40 they normally go for).  Well, the bottom tension on the seam was through the roof and none of it was locked.  Since it's only holding my insulated pants on, I'm not fixing it, but there's someone in SE Asia running the wrong settings on their box-cross machine.

Having sewn a number of webbing straps myself, I know that getting the needle size right to make the hole big enough to pull the thread after you've packed the piece full of tight stitches can take some trial and error.  Big needle also means likely pulling the bottom thread up through the hole in the first few stitches, so getting the tension balanced perfect takes some doing.  It's not as easy as it looks or seems.

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9 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

Are you sure about that?  

The 1800 series were produced in the 80's and 90's, not 8 months ago for sure. Looks to be in good shape though. Just not real useful for leather work.

Regards, Eric

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@gottaknow...I am skeptical as well, I figure I would go look at the machine and see if it functions as it should and the stitches are tight. I appreciate all of the input...I definitely know more than I did when I started! I have a few questions for the seller and he has not replied, as of yet, so will see what he/she has to say. I would more than likely use it for sewing nylon strapping and such...leashes, dog collars, etc. or anything else that i feel compelled to tack....

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If it will do what you want then it is a great bargain for sure, it will sell 4x the price if it comes from sewing machine shop / other specialist shop. But off course if you decide to buy it you are on your own without technical support or guarantee, bartacker machine is pretty tricky for a beginner like me. I had to call in a specialist several times for it to get it right. And a sewing machine mechanic is not cheap indeed :blink:

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@patria--thanks for the insight...I just happen to know a fellow down the street with a shop that has been in business for 40 years! He works on them all...from home to industrials ...but hopefully I will not need him. 

I may go see the machine this weekend but must go and celebrate my father's 75th birthday first....I owe it to both my mother (for teaching me how to sew) and my father (for teaching me to work with my hands at a young age) for what I am able to do today!

 

Thanks again for all of the info provided. If I pick up the machine, I will surely keep everyone updated.

 

V/r,

 

Chayse

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@gottaknow..can the cam be swapped out to make this machine a 42 stitch machine? If so, how expensive is the cam and presser feet?  Thanks in advance. 

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It can, but it's not that easy. It would be better to find a 42 stitch machine to start with. 

Regards, Eric 

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@gottaknow- Thanks for the info...still on the fence about this machine...

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Hi Eric (gottaknow), 
Just been looking for info about threads for my Lk´K 1852 tacker i have and came across your post. Great info cheers.
I am wondering, have you had much success with 100% polyester thread? I am using polyester t60 or a thicker thread t90 (equivalent) and i'm having trouble with consistent cutting and well as making the last lock stitch hold in place. 
I have replaced the blades , adjusted the knives and knife timing, and reset the hook timing and needle bar. It is making a lovely looking stitch and works quite well when i use thinner poly cotton on the bobbin (thanks for the tip! def makes a nicer stitch underneath) but I need to use poly thread only.
Any tips welcomed! Thanks!!
 

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4 hours ago, Willyac said:

Hi Eric (gottaknow), 

Hey @Willyac, to get someones attention, use @gottaknow and click on the name in the drop down list.  Then they will get a notification.  See how it works?

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