Members motocouture Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 Been a good week! Picked up two racks of deer antlers someone left out on the curb, which will be turned into burnishers / folders . Then hubby wanted to get rid of two trees in the back yard, so I put in a request for a 33" section of the trunk to make a leather working stump. Came home to this - happy to hear any suggestions on drying out / treating / embellishing etc! (Will neaten up the top later to make it level) Quote
Members Brianm77 Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 Paint the cuts good and heavy and put in the coolest and driest place you cans find for about a year. What I would do... Quote
Members motocouture Posted April 4, 2017 Author Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 11 minutes ago, Brianm77 said: Paint the cuts good and heavy and put in the coolest and driest place you cans find for about a year. What I would do... Thanks! That should be do-able.... Quote
Members JimTimber Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 Get the bark off it pronto! Painting the ends will only possibly prevent checking (cracks radial to the diameter), and will slow the overall drying. You're looking at more than a year. Hardwood dries 1" per year when cut into boards (2" = 2 years, etc). If you have a wood stove or fireplace, you might speed the process but risk inducing cracks from uneven drying. Quote
Members JD62 Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 Jim Timber is right on about dry time. I painted the ends of mine with poly and just use it , reseal the top when worn. After a year I only have a couple fine checks that don't seem to be getting any bigger. Quote One day at a time my friends John
Members zuludog Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 'fraid I haven't used anything like that, so I'm stumped for an answer. Quote
Members motocouture Posted April 4, 2017 Author Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 Thanks JimTimber and JD62, much appreciated. I'll work on getting the bark off asap! I have a good poly sealer at home I can use (was for hardwood floors, so assume it'll do the trick) Zuludog, sounds like you wood-n't know Quote
Members zuludog Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 Alright, that's enough for fun, if you like that sort of thing More seriously, search YouTube for 'log end table' ; 'tree stump table'; and any similar variations you can think of. As is usual with YouTube there are lots of videos, some probably more relevant & useful than others I have only watched 2 or 3 as I didn't need to watch any more, but I think you would find it useful to do so, as many as you have the stamina for One of them recommends painting the cut ends with 40% sucrose solution to prevent cracking. I don't know anything about this, perhaps others can comment? Sucrose is just the chemical name for ordinary table sugar Have you ever used percentages? They can be confusing if you're not familiar with them, but I have used them all my working life. Beware, 40% is not 40 + 100 it is 40 sucrose + 60 water; my apologies if I'm talking down to you. Quote
Members JimTimber Posted April 4, 2017 Members Report Posted April 4, 2017 You seal the ends to prevent them from drying faster than the middle (which is what causes the "check". Checking is the technical name for a stress crack in wood). The grain of the wood is actually made up of thousands of little tubes that are filled with various levels of water depending on where in the log they're located. Heart wood is dryer, because it's not the "live" wood of the tree (that's the sap wood around the outside edge). Trees grow up when they're young, then start growing outward once the tree hits it's peak height adding growth rings at each spurt of growth (usually around 4 a year). "Old growth" trees are more sought after because they grew slower under natural succession (more competition for sunlight = slower growth = tighter grain). Without that competition, the tree grows a lot faster and puts on more growth per spurt and has looser grain, while getting bigger in a shorter time period. Bark seals the water in and will allow fungus and mold to thrive. Get that off so the sap wood can breathe, and seal the ends so they can't - that's your best bet for an air dried log. Still no guarantee you won't get checking, but it does help keep it to a minimum. If the stump is brought inside before being exposed to much outside contamination, you can leave the bark on and leave the ends bare. I did it with the log my anvil lives on, and it checked a bit but not enough to pose a problem. I didn't know what I do now when I cut the green ash it came from (10 years ago), so I would do it differently today. Quote
Members motocouture Posted April 5, 2017 Author Members Report Posted April 5, 2017 Thank you both so much; really appreciate you both taking the time to share the detail. Zuludog - no worries at all. I have used percentages, but always good to get the clarity on whether it's a % versus a ratio (e.g. 1:1). JimTimber - will give that a shot. I'm not too worried if some checking occurs. I'll call that "character" ; ) Now I just have to actually clear a spot in the garage... Quote
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