LeatherworkingNovice Report post Posted April 18, 2017 I recently got access to a laser cutter and would like to make a couple of custom stamps. I have one of the hand presses from Tandy and also a bench-top arbor press from Harbor Freight I can use with the stamps but I'd also like the people I'm giving them to to be able to use them with Tandy's Hefty Handle. The stamps will be from 1" to 1.5" across. I have a 1"x4"x12" block of UHMW which I'm thinking is both possibly too soft and also mostly melt in the laser cutter and not give the desired results. I also have a .25"x12"x18" sheet of Lexan that I'm told should laser cut very cleanly. OR should i order some Delrin and if so, what format (rod, block, or sheet) and what dimensions? Recommendations on material and settings for the laser cutter? It's a 45w system. Looking at the (metal) stamps I have, it looks like I want a depth of 1/8" or maybe 3/16" (since these won't be metal). I have a notion of making the stamp itself from the Lexan and mounting it to some other material for striking (wood, nylon, UHMW, etc). Opinions? I'm new to laser cutters so any info is appreciated. Thanks! BTW, if this gets double posted, please kill one of them off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brianm77 Report post Posted April 18, 2017 I can't speak to the lasers but I do know that the lexan won't make a good stamp as it is to brittle and chips away in pretty short order. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LatigoAmigo Report post Posted April 18, 2017 You might want to read this article: http://hackaday.com/2015/09/22/drawbacks-of-lased-delrin-and-how-to-slip-around-them/ for information on laser cutting delrin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RabanJr Report post Posted April 28, 2017 I have had pretty good results with delrin using my 40 watt laser. It takes a little trial an error, but it will yield a crisp excellent stamp. If your software fore the laser has a stamp mode, that is what you would want to use Lexan, bring a polycarbonate, will crack under the stress of the press. Good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Studio-N Report post Posted April 29, 2017 If your software fore the laser has a stamp mode, that is what you would want to use the stamp mode is usally for making rubber stamps - meaning it creates a ramp/angle to each letter. that's fine for a rubber stamp where it never goes below the surface but in the case of leather you want to penetrate the surface and the ramp will expand the letter, which may end up looking blurry. Keep the letters crisp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RabanJr Report post Posted May 1, 2017 the stamp mode is usally for making rubber stamps - meaning it creates a ramp/angle to each letter. that's fine for a rubber stamp where it never goes below the surface but in the case of leather you want to penetrate the surface and the ramp will expand the letter, which may end up looking blurry. Keep the letters crisp. I recommend to experiment and see what works for you and your design. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted May 14, 2017 On 4/28/2017 at 7:02 AM, RabanJr said: I have had pretty good results with delrin using my 40 watt laser. It takes a little trial an error, but it will yield a crisp excellent stamp. If your software fore the laser has a stamp mode, that is what you would want to use Lexan, bring a polycarbonate, will crack under the stress of the press. Good luck Can you tell us the setting you used? I have a 40W as well and wanted to do the same. %power, speed, etc. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamestat2 Report post Posted November 26, 2018 Not meaning to revive an old thread but meaning to revive an old thread. I have been asking several "Maker Stamp" makers lately; What material they use for their stamps and how they make them. Many of them have said that they are laser cutting them from Delrin. I think that's cool as I have worked a lot with acetyl. Making bearings and linear slide plates from it in my past work. A lot of non-leather working (tool and die maker) people that I have spoken to about this have the idea that it's not hard enough. They don't have any idea until I show them the pliability of wet Veg Tan! Then they are like! "Oh yeah that would work!" So recently I have looked into "cheater stamps" to help me speed up production. Especially since I was offered a job with (not saying the name) the most high dollar saddle maker in the US; To tool saddles for them. I looked at many of their saddles at "The Congress", and the people they have tooling their saddles now are also using "cheater stamps"! Cheater stamps are these for the uninitiated https://www.steelstampsinc.com/sheridan-tooling Seems this company is the only one I have found and I have done many google searches over and over again! I was in kahoots (for a minute) with a tool and die buddy of mine to machine similar stamps from metal! Then we got to looking into the price of the metal (Stainless), the wear and tear on tooling and set-up time and lo and behold we came up with the idea of lasers and acetyl! So Shazzam! This coming spring I am going to buy a 100W laser and embark on an endeavor to make acetyl "cheater stamps"! So! Anyone with any serious die making experience please chime in with your thoughts and examples or concerns! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LatigoAmigo Report post Posted November 26, 2018 2 hours ago, Jamestat2 said: This coming spring I am going to buy a 100W laser and embark on an endeavor to make acetyl "cheater stamps"! I have some experience cutting leather with a 100-watt CO2 laser. I tried cutting some Delrin, but it was a beast to cut on my machine, it took several passes at high power, and the edges weren't "square", possibly due to the conical shape of the laser beam and the related heat that the many passes produced. If you were to ask for my advice, and I know you aren't, I would say to join a "maker space" and test your materials before you put out any money for a laser. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites