Windrider30 Report post Posted May 30, 2017 Ok so how thick should the core be of a rolled handle or is there no real "right" thickness? Right now I have a 2 inch handle that I am working on (which will drop to one inch when hand stitched together) I figured an inch to half an inch thick might be enough was just wondering. Oh using paracord guts for the core on this handle was thinking of using a leather core but wasn't sure if that would work to well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 Leather would work ok. Paracord I think would be a bit flimsier? Idk. I'm not sure there is a rule how thick to make it. Do you have Stohlman's books on case making? There's a good section on handles in there that may help. Also, if you want a leather core, if you have how to make whips by Ron Edwards he shows how to make a leather core for a whip which could be adapted to your handle. Hope that gives an idea for you. I've never done it so, just spitballin here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 4 hours ago, Stetson912 said: Leather would work ok. Paracord I think would be a bit flimsier? Idk. I'm not sure there is a rule how thick to make it. Do you have Stohlman's books on case making? There's a good section on handles in there that may help. Also, if you want a leather core, if you have how to make whips by Ron Edwards he shows how to make a leather core for a whip which could be adapted to your handle. Hope that gives an idea for you. I've never done it so, just spitballin here. I have made a few paracord whips so I am firmilar with how to make a whip core out of leather good idea on that thanks will give that a go and see how it works! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 Cool.looking forward to seeing how it works out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted May 31, 2017 The size would depend on the bag size and weight etc a bit but I mostly use some 10mm cord like in the picture here. I make the pattern where the stitch line up wider to start and trim down after I stitch. Self taught and there may be better ways. Here are some pics that may help some.Sorry I have not some more of the break down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted June 1, 2017 1 hour ago, RockyAussie said: The size would depend on the bag size and weight etc a bit but I mostly use some 10mm cord like in the picture here. I make the pattern where the stitch line up wider to start and trim down after I stitch. Self taught and there may be better ways. Here are some pics that may help some.Sorry I have not some more of the break down. Great looking bags and thanks, I have some soft cording that I am going to try first, if that does not stop the issue of wrinkling I am going to make a leather core and see how that works out as well! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted June 1, 2017 I should have thought to mention that you will get better results by putting an isolation fabric around the rope first with no glue touching the rope except at the ends. Then you can glue it in place in the leather without losing the free movement of the rope inside. It makes the handles more easily move and stay in place better. Regards Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted June 1, 2017 I had not thought of gluingin place my first handle just the thread is keeping the core in place but then again handle is only half and inch wide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted June 1, 2017 With some leathers that might work OK I'm not sure.I tend to put an isolator fabric on a lot of leather particularly croc to keep it from stretching around and losing shape as you work it. A lot of keeping the shape and movement of the product is better with an isolator fabric backing the leather where it rubs against another piece. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted June 2, 2017 8 hours ago, RockyAussie said: With some leathers that might work OK I'm not sure.I tend to put an isolator fabric on a lot of leather particularly croc to keep it from stretching around and losing shape as you work it. A lot of keeping the shape and movement of the product is better with an isolator fabric backing the leather where it rubs against another piece. haven't had the chance to work with croc really want to but cant find a supplier here in Australia...odd I know but most of the croc farms are selling their stuff or are already owned by the major big brands like lewy and all those high end companies Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted June 2, 2017 That is true, Hermes bought all the large ones awhile ago and the only 2 I know that haven't sold are hard and very expensive to buy from. I can arrange the sale of hornback backstraps if you like as I have thousands of them here. Pretty sure around $60.00 au plus gst + freight will cover it. I think I could sell the hatband/wristband strips that get cut off the side when I make their belts as well. Tons of that here unfortunately. Regards Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted June 2, 2017 12 minutes ago, RockyAussie said: That is true, Hermes bought all the large ones awhile ago and the only 2 I know that haven't sold are hard and very expensive to buy from. I can arrange the sale of hornback backstraps if you like as I have thousands of them here. Pretty sure around $60.00 au plus gst + freight will cover it. I think I could sell the hatband/wristband strips that get cut off the side when I make their belts as well. Tons of that here unfortunately. Regards Brian how much is freight? and yeah it is expensive as hell for some damn reason makes it hard to get ahold of, though thinking of reaching out to an uncle in the states and see if he can get me some gator skins Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted June 6, 2017 On 6/1/2017 at 5:29 PM, RockyAussie said: With some leathers that might work OK I'm not sure.I tend to put an isolator fabric on a lot of leather particularly croc to keep it from stretching around and losing shape as you work it. A lot of keeping the shape and movement of the product is better with an isolator fabric backing the leather where it rubs against another piece. What kind of fabric are you talking here? Cotton t-shirt type, bedsheet type, heavy felt type, nylon? Thanks! YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dunluce Report post Posted June 6, 2017 When I was talking to someone recently about making rolled bag handles they told me to go to a local leather goods and fittings shop and ask for stuffing for Bugatti handles. Apparently (I may be wrong) they were he first to do this type of handle and it has become named after them. I went to the shop and they had rolls of it in two different thicknesses and it was very cheap. It is a fibrous type of material with a thread like webbing over it. I haven't actually made a handle yet so I can't report how it works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted June 6, 2017 8 hours ago, YinTx said: What kind of fabric are you talking here? Cotton t-shirt type, bedsheet type, heavy felt type, nylon? Thanks! YinTx Although I use several different types for different purposes the most common one is interfacing which is a non woven fabric type stuff that most sewing fabric type places stock. I don't use the iron on type I generally just spray glue and attach most of the time.With handles a sheet type fabric would work well if not better. When working with crocodile and particularly glazed croc it tends to be want to curve back into a round shape and to overcome this I attach to the croc an interfacing and carefully flatten out and leave under a flat press overnight (thick craft-wood on top of marble slab and more weights on top). The interfacing finishes well short of the edges and skiving and the croc is generally recut to shape after the flattening process. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites