Easy stitch length adjustment

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

What heavy stitcher has the easiest most accurate stitch length adjustment 

[Uwe]

Well, in my book that rules out anything with a stitch length lever that flips up and down. Those settings are mere suggestions and repeatability is all but absent.

Dials for stitch length adjustments are a step in the right direction, which only the modern heavy stitchers have. Having two dials to pre-set two stitch length and switching between them with a button press is easy/convenient.

Examples: Durkopp Adler 969

and Juki LS-2342H

 

The most precise and repeatable stitch length machines are probably electronic wheel driven machines with stepper motor drives, like the Pfaff 1591, but those are medium duty machines:

 

Edited June 28, 2017 by Uwe

[Constabulary]

impressive machines these Pfaffs - wondering if there will be someone who will (or can) restore them in 50 - 75 years 

[Matt S]

The Pearson/BUSM no6 harness stitcher uses a rotating dial with the stitch length indicated in stitches per inch, which is always accurate when stitching the heavy, stiff leathers for which it was designed as (a) it is a needle feed, so no chance of slippage (b) in normal use the needles are kept straight by us of the needle steady and (c) it has a true square motion drive on the needle, as opposed to the more common pendulum motion which changes stitch length depending on the thickness of the material. Shame they stopped making them about forty years ago...

Out of interest, why do you want this feature? I have never felt at a disadvantage using a machine without it -- I always use some scrap of the same substance and thickness as the project as a test sample, and that can be used to check stitch length.

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

To match the stitching when Re lining saddles. I have not had good luck with the 441 and adler  machines in the past.   I have a pearson but the stitch length knob does not work oro]rely. Maybe it just needs to be corrected 

[Matt S]

1 hour ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said:

To match the stitching when Re lining saddles. I have not had good luck with the 441 and adler  machines in the past.   I have a pearson but the stitch length knob does not work oro]rely. Maybe it just needs to be corrected 

Ah yes I remember you had some issues with stitch length. Did you look at the tightness of the gibs as I suggested?

[Wizcrafts]

You might inquire in your general area to see if there are any Mennonite or Amish harness shops. If so, ask if any of them have a Union Lockstitch machine. I have owned two of them and they will match holes well. They have true square drive and needle feed (with a jump foot) and the needles don't bend much if you are using a #3 to #4 needle (perfect for 6 cord or #346 thread). It would be worth your time to check out one in working condition.

The Campbell Randall lockstitch machines are even more reliable feeders because the awl feeds the leather.

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

MattS

I have the pearson sewing really nice right now but the knob that is supposed to adjust the stitch length don't adjust anything it just spins and the stitch remains the same. I love the machine but it's just sewing 7 to the inch 

 

[Matt S]

49 minutes ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said:

MattS

I have the pearson sewing really nice right now but the knob that is supposed to adjust the stitch length don't adjust anything it just spins and the stitch remains the same. I love the machine but it's just sewing 7 to the inch 

 

Does the screw on the back of the stitch length adjusting dial touch the corresponding screw on the large arm at the top back of the machine at any point? It should touch as you turn the handle somewhere between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock.

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

I'll get some.pics in the.morning but if the knob is turmed till the bolt touches each other it sews almost in the same hole. I think that's right. I adjusted the screw behind the arm till I got 7 stitches per inch and left it. I need to go back and get it right 

[leathersmyth]

Yes, You need to address and  adjust the pearson stitch length adjustment proper before it will work. Mine can adjust Any stitch i want and match any stitch i need...

 So works flawless to match old stitch holes...

[Matt S]

4 hours ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said:

I'll get some.pics in the.morning but if the knob is turmed till the bolt touches each other it sews almost in the same hole. I think that's right. I adjusted the screw behind the arm till I got 7 stitches per inch and left it. I need to go back and get it right 

There is definitely something not right with your machine, those two bolts should touch at all stitch lengths when the wheel is between 12 and 1 o'clock. Luckiily Pearsons are easy to adjust as most of the timing is fixed from the camming surfaces on the main balance wheel.

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

Where should I start looking to get it where it will adjust

 

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

If I set the dial on 0 as far as it will go it will sew 5 spi. If I set it on 12 it will sew 9. So it is set on 5 and sewing 5 1/2 very tight clean nice stitches but no adjustment that I can see with tge dial 

[Matt S]

There is a screw on the upper arm of the Y-shaped casting at the back of the machine. This screw contacts the screw on which turns the stitch length wheel (after 12 o'clock). This rear screw may need adjusting to make the stitch length correspond with the stitch length dial. Remember to slack off its locking screw first though. If this doesn't fix the problem, you probably have to adjust the tension on the gibs of the needle block.

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

I have tried adjusting that screw you were talking about but I think it's something else. That screw dont seem to effect it too much. I slacked off the set screw and moved that screw a lot in as well as out it don't touch tge adjusting knob hardly at all 

[Matt S]

Then you need to look at the needle block. If the tension on the gibs is excessive or unbalanced, it can cause the issues you describe. It's one of the few issues with the design of the no6, the forward movement of the needle after completion of the stitch relies on a relatively small spring. A little friction or dirt and it simply won't cope.

[480volt]

Can one of you Pearson owners post a few pictures of the top and back of your machine? The vast majority of posted photos are taken from the front, which does not show the drive mechanism.

[sandyt]

Sorry for the dust....I collect it.

[Matt S]

Sandy is that the cable for an electrically heated needle block?

[sandyt]

Hi Matt, 

Yes, it has 3 heating blocks. Needle block (head), wax pot, and shuttle race ('cylinder arm').

Sandy. 

[Matt S]

Of be great to see some details of your heater blocks Sandy, I understand they are even rarer than paraffin or gas jets. Do you use them?

[480volt]

Perfect, thanks for the photos Sandy.

Ken

[sandyt]

No problem Ken.

Matt S, I don't use them. I don't even use the pearson itseld often. Hardly actually. Never found the time to make it stitch consistantly. I have to buy a new bobin tension strip first. It works with a glued home made one, but not great. And I nead a needle guide. Martin's harness sells them. Someday when I have a bigger order, I will order everything at once. I am not in a hurry. It looks pretty cool in my living room as a dust collector.

Underneath the race there is also a heating block. I can't take a picture of it without dismantling it.

Sandy. 

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

Looks like my machine might be way off adjustment. The screw that adjusts the stitch length dosent meet up straight with the dial screw on the back side