Members leathersmyth Posted June 29, 2017 Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 Yes, You need to address and adjust the pearson stitch length adjustment proper before it will work. Mine can adjust Any stitch i want and match any stitch i need... So works flawless to match old stitch holes... Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 29, 2017 Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 4 hours ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said: I'll get some.pics in the.morning but if the knob is turmed till the bolt touches each other it sews almost in the same hole. I think that's right. I adjusted the screw behind the arm till I got 7 stitches per inch and left it. I need to go back and get it right There is definitely something not right with your machine, those two bolts should touch at all stitch lengths when the wheel is between 12 and 1 o'clock. Luckiily Pearsons are easy to adjust as most of the timing is fixed from the camming surfaces on the main balance wheel. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 29, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 Where should I start looking to get it where it will adjust Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 29, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 If I set the dial on 0 as far as it will go it will sew 5 spi. If I set it on 12 it will sew 9. So it is set on 5 and sewing 5 1/2 very tight clean nice stitches but no adjustment that I can see with tge dial Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 29, 2017 Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 There is a screw on the upper arm of the Y-shaped casting at the back of the machine. This screw contacts the screw on which turns the stitch length wheel (after 12 o'clock). This rear screw may need adjusting to make the stitch length correspond with the stitch length dial. Remember to slack off its locking screw first though. If this doesn't fix the problem, you probably have to adjust the tension on the gibs of the needle block. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 30, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 30, 2017 I have tried adjusting that screw you were talking about but I think it's something else. That screw dont seem to effect it too much. I slacked off the set screw and moved that screw a lot in as well as out it don't touch tge adjusting knob hardly at all Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 30, 2017 Members Report Posted June 30, 2017 Then you need to look at the needle block. If the tension on the gibs is excessive or unbalanced, it can cause the issues you describe. It's one of the few issues with the design of the no6, the forward movement of the needle after completion of the stitch relies on a relatively small spring. A little friction or dirt and it simply won't cope. Quote
480volt Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 Can one of you Pearson owners post a few pictures of the top and back of your machine? The vast majority of posted photos are taken from the front, which does not show the drive mechanism. Quote
Members sandyt Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 Sorry for the dust....I collect it. Quote
Members Matt S Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 Sandy is that the cable for an electrically heated needle block? Quote
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