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Yes, You need to address and  adjust the pearson stitch length adjustment proper before it will work. Mine can adjust Any stitch i want and match any stitch i need...

 So works flawless to match old stitch holes...

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4 hours ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said:

I'll get some.pics in the.morning but if the knob is turmed till the bolt touches each other it sews almost in the same hole. I think that's right. I adjusted the screw behind the arm till I got 7 stitches per inch and left it. I need to go back and get it right 

There is definitely something not right with your machine, those two bolts should touch at all stitch lengths when the wheel is between 12 and 1 o'clock. Luckiily Pearsons are easy to adjust as most of the timing is fixed from the camming surfaces on the main balance wheel.

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There is a screw on the upper arm of the Y-shaped casting at the back of the machine. This screw contacts the screw on which turns the stitch length wheel (after 12 o'clock). This rear screw may need adjusting to make the stitch length correspond with the stitch length dial. Remember to slack off its locking screw first though. If this doesn't fix the problem, you probably have to adjust the tension on the gibs of the needle block.

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Then you need to look at the needle block. If the tension on the gibs is excessive or unbalanced, it can cause the issues you describe. It's one of the few issues with the design of the no6, the forward movement of the needle after completion of the stitch relies on a relatively small spring. A little friction or dirt and it simply won't cope.

Posted

Can one of you Pearson owners post a few pictures of the top and back of your machine? The vast majority of posted photos are taken from the front, which does not show the drive mechanism.

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Sorry for the dust....I collect it.

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