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Leather Corset guidance

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Hello All,

 

I'm new to the forum and also to working with leather. I have made a few different corsets and would like to make leather one, but am very nervous to try!! LOL I wondered if anyone would have guidance they could give. I have purchased a beautiful metallic leather from the Hidehouse and i have patterns from Scarlett Sapsford and would like to have a corset with no front opening as i would like to applique detailing on that section. So my questions are is that possible to make it with only the back lacing? Should i make it just like i do a regular corset? any advice will be greatly received.

 

Thanks Mel

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I'm not a corset maker but my partner (who is not on this forum) is.  You can make a corset without a busk/zipper/grommets in the front.  The downside is that it will be more difficult to put on and take off.  You will have to unlace it a lot more. Also you may have to adjust the front centre panels as the pattern likely allows for sewing in a busk.

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I've made a few corsets, and some garments from leather. Couple of things to think about will be the weight (thickness) of the leather, how you sew it and how you treat the seams. If it's light leather, on a domestic sewing machine, then I strongly recommend a leather needle, and I generally use tissue paper strips between the presser foot and leather so it doesn't stick. Stitch length is longer than fabric, usually for me ~3.5mm, with a jeans or buttonhole type thread. Double sided tape (make sure it's sewable, i.e. won't gum up your needle) is invaluable for basting. You may be able to lap the seams to cut down bulk, and use the underlying seam allowance to create a channel for the boning, if you're using any. You can iron some leather, just no steam and low-med heat, and especially if it's a metallic, test first on a scrap!!!

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I make a more simple type of leather corset. I use 12-14 oz. and sometimes even latigo as the panel material and a great substitute for the boning you would find in cloth corsets. So the panels are just edge sewn together and give the corset the wrap around bend it needs. Maybe easier to show a pic or two...

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ritefront.jpg

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I've made a few corsets.  I actually prefer making them with leather or at least partially out of leather.  How you sew them is really dependent on the weight of the leather you are using.  A heavy cowhide leather will act as it's own  strength layer.  A lighter weight lambskin leather on the other hand will have a lot of stretch and may possibly tear from the tension placed on the seams.  Boning, boning, boning.  If you want to control stretch and distortion, you will need to use plenty of boning.  The larger the corset size, and/or greater the waist reduction, the more boning you require in order to maintain the integrity of the corset.  If you are using lightweight leather, you may also need to run a strength layer under the leather.  I personally like white cotton denim, since it is not nearly as expensive as herring bone coutil.  

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