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About Sonydaze

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    Qualicum Beach, BC Canada
  • Interests
    leatherwork, woodwork, metalwork & motorcyles

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Marine, animal, industrial & adult leather products
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  1. It looks like you have a LR needle in it. The LR needles cut the hole on an angle to cause the zig zag look. Change the needle to a dia point and you should get straight stitches.
  2. I just looked at the links you provided. A friend has had a Sunstar skiver for several years with no problems With the cylinder arm, I would consider getting the KM-390BL (bobbin large). It is a heavier machine and the larger bobbin is nice.
  3. I have three KM-590BL machines and they have proven to be reliable workhorses. I bought my first Sunstar in 2003, it has taken everything I have thrown at it and still sews well. Don't be afraid of the brand. In Vancouver, Mason Sewing is the Sunstar dealer. Their industrial sewing machine manager (Marc) is a great guy to deal with if you need parts, service or another machine.
  4. None of my hand presses were vertically open enough for the dies, they only fit in my foot press.
  5. I have the Weaver dies (and am very happy with them). The top die sticks out press shaft 1 3/4" and the bottom die sticks up 7/8". So you need 2 5/8" plus room between them to put the staple and leather in. The shanks that fit into the press are both 3/8"
  6. I have had a couple of 1245s. They are a nice sewing and nice feeling machine, but will struggle with much thicker than 3/8" thick combinations of materials. The Juki should be able to sew up to 1/2" thick materials but will also sew lighter material combinations. My .02 is go with the Juki.
  7. The bell knife needs to be positioned very close to the presser foot. Setup the bell distance (to the presser foot) then adjust the feed wheel so it aligns with the bell and doesn't quite touch it. If the bell has been sharpened while too far from the presser foot, the bevel will be wrong and will need to be reground. Use a felt pen to darken the ground edge on the bell, then try sharpening it see if it is removing the felt pen across the whole ground edge. If it doesn't, then grind it until it does grind all of the felt pen off. Debur the edge with a pencil shaped stone to finish. Hope this helps.
  8. With the pandemic, I haven't gotten it from Weaver, yet as belts are not my priority at this time. I due still intend to see if they work or how they have to be adapted. I'm thinking the belt ends are why Tandy is dumping them. If it proves reasonable to alter Weaver's belt ends, it will be a great price.
  9. @Constabulary is correct. You will want to use a 135x17 needle for fabric as it has a rounded point to separate the fibers when the needle goes through. Using a 135x16 on fabric can result in fraying along the stitch line as it will cut the fabric to make a hole. If I am sewing fabric to leather, I use a 135x17 as it will sew the leather but not harm the fabric.
  10. This looks like a pretty darn good deal! Unfortunately I'm too far away.
  11. I would mold them both with larger pieces of leather. This allows you to glue it together over the pliers for better alignment. I sew it while it is still full size then trim it down after. I also cut down the belt loop to size after it is sewn.
  12. If you are able to sell your straps for resale, you might talk to some of the better watch stores and men's fashion shops in Vancouver.
  13. I think this forum has shown the most level headed, unbiased moderating of any forum I have been part of. Did you ask why you were moderated? There is likely a reasonable answer.
  14. My strap cutter is a different brand but likely the same as yours in design. It is a left hand thread, so looking at the end of the shaft, turn it clockwise to loosen.
  15. https://leatherworker.net/forum/profile/56402-uwe/ His tables are great.
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