Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Sonydaze

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Qualicum Beach, BC Canada
  • Interests
    leatherwork, woodwork, metalwork & motorcyles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Marine, animal, industrial & adult leather products
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

Recent Profile Visitors

6,444 profile views
  1. The bell knife needs to be positioned very close to the presser foot. Setup the bell distance (to the presser foot) then adjust the feed wheel so it aligns with the bell and doesn't quite touch it. If the bell has been sharpened while too far from the presser foot, the bevel will be wrong and will need to be reground. Use a felt pen to darken the ground edge on the bell, then try sharpening it see if it is removing the felt pen across the whole ground edge. If it doesn't, then grind it until it does grind all of the felt pen off. Debur the edge with a pencil shaped stone to finish. Hope this helps.
  2. With the pandemic, I haven't gotten it from Weaver, yet as belts are not my priority at this time. I due still intend to see if they work or how they have to be adapted. I'm thinking the belt ends are why Tandy is dumping them. If it proves reasonable to alter Weaver's belt ends, it will be a great price.
  3. @Constabulary is correct. You will want to use a 135x17 needle for fabric as it has a rounded point to separate the fibers when the needle goes through. Using a 135x16 on fabric can result in fraying along the stitch line as it will cut the fabric to make a hole. If I am sewing fabric to leather, I use a 135x17 as it will sew the leather but not harm the fabric.
  4. This looks like a pretty darn good deal! Unfortunately I'm too far away.
  5. I would mold them both with larger pieces of leather. This allows you to glue it together over the pliers for better alignment. I sew it while it is still full size then trim it down after. I also cut down the belt loop to size after it is sewn.
  6. If you are able to sell your straps for resale, you might talk to some of the better watch stores and men's fashion shops in Vancouver.
  7. I think this forum has shown the most level headed, unbiased moderating of any forum I have been part of. Did you ask why you were moderated? There is likely a reasonable answer.
  8. My strap cutter is a different brand but likely the same as yours in design. It is a left hand thread, so looking at the end of the shaft, turn it clockwise to loosen.
  9. https://leatherworker.net/forum/profile/56402-uwe/ His tables are great.
  10. This thread has info on the belt tipping machine: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88035-belt-tipping-machine/
  11. There is only one end punch available (includes the replacement one on their website). Weaver offers some choices and I think I will get one and try to adapt it. Still for the sale price, I'm not going to whine.
  12. I saw your post, looked at the unit and bought one. (lol I live close enough to a store to do a return) I set it up yesterday and gave it a quick test run. It works well! I think at the sale price, it is an excellent deal. My negatives on it: Does not have self centering guides. The single guide works okay, but you have to adjust it (correctly) if you change width. The measuring guide seems fairly accurate but is in millimeters. Both dies have a round end punch good for up to 2". Okay for the buckle end, but I don't like it for the billet end.. not as pointy as I would like. However they do offer an English point model ( https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/craftool-pro-tipping-end-punch) For $155.29.
  13. Pictures and a price would be helpful.
  • Create New...