Leather newbie seeking answers about watch bands

[doingmahresearch]

Hi guys, leather newbie here. I'm developing a watch, and am now thinking about watch bands. I thought designing the case was the hard part, until I started diving into the wonderful world of leather--damn it is confusing. I want to get the best band possible to fit the rest of my watch, so I've been doing quite a lot of reading up. Still in a whirl though, and thought I'll try asking the experts. 

- I want a full/top-grain leather strap. I see many traditional/classier leather bands are padded, with a bulge in the middle of the band. See this example--which also claims to be vegetable-tanned, full-grain leather. But most custom-made, high quality bands I see are "flat"--made of either one whole piece of leather, or a piece of leather folded into two, and then glued/stitched together, with little padding. Are there any benefits to the latter method?

- And are there any differences/pros/cons between using one piece of leather (using the suede side against the skin), versus folding the leather and using two layers?

- How much square footage of leather is needed to make one watch strap?

- What type of finishing would be best for watch straps? Is going for a lighter treatment better? Are waxed treatments (e.g. Horween Dublin) generally better since it seems more water-proof? I'm going for a black strap.

- What's the deal with crazy horse leather? My impression is that it is tougher and needs little maintenance, and has interesting color changes with time.  (How does black leather develop patina anyway? Do it just get shinier?)

 

Thanks in advance for any help and advice!

[MY63]

Making watch straps is not as easy as it looks I have posted a video below that may help you to see how a watch strap is made.

Good luck with your research

 

 

[arz]

I agree, watch straps are not easy. Much harder than it looks I am not sure if there is an advantage between the different styles, probably just personal preference. For me it depends on what the customer wants (rustic, classic, etc.)  There are a few different ways to make them. I would suggest doing a YouTube search and see what others are doing. The video My63 suggested is great! I watched the below videos and they helped me understand how they are constructed. Also, look on Instagram, lots of photos of how they are made. -Adam

 

 

[NVLeatherWorx]

As a newbie to this craft you might want to start off with some projects that you can fiddle with and learn from; watch straps are not easy by any means and I have seen a ton of feeble attempts from several crafters over the years (enough to easily fill a big mining dump truck, no joke) that had to have cost thousands in wasted materials and even more in wasted time.  Watch straps tend to be a personal item, much like a belt, and that means that they end up becoming a custom order item for those who wish to have something unique; the biggest issue is finding those who want to pay the extra cash for such things and that have an idea of what they are looking for.  I still make watch straps but only on a custom order basis and I don't just take every single request that comes along; I have found that most people who are asking about it are just asking about it and have no real desire to commit to it.  I prefer to have a nice watch strap on my wrist and I don't wear just a plain watch, I am wearing one of those Fitbit Blaze fitness trackers (and yes, I have the frames and pins to make straps for those as well as for the Apple Watch).

I have found that in the past couple of years that watch strap making has become the new direction and these Maker's have had several years of leather work experience under their belts before they made that leap; and, having seen some of their work, I can see it as an area that would be tough to break into and claim a stake in that category unless you have a solid name behind you (i.e. well known as a high quality leather worker) and plenty of patience.

Good luck in your research though and keep us appraised of how things go for you.

[doingmahresearch]

4 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

 

Oops, I think I was misunderstood--I won't be making the straps myself--since my first order of watches will be several hundred--and that'll be insane--and I have definitely don't have the skills or experience to do it. Sorry for the confusion!!

Even though I'm not making it myself, I still want to be completely educated about the process so I can identify a great quality strap / choose a suitable strap style. So picking between two pieces of leather folded vs one piece (is this just preference?); stitching vs gluing (stitching is more sturdy?); types of finishes/tanning (waxy? oil-tanned? veg vs chrome tanned?), etc. Crazy horse?

And do people know how many straps a square foot of leather can make? Two?

 

Edited July 15, 2017 by doingmahresearch
changing words

[RockyAussie]

To not go and waste a heap of time answering a whole heap of variable methods and their pluses and minuses I would suggest advising what sort of a retail price you hope to achieve and what you think a band to suit would cost you. I have made many different types for different purposes and on some more expensive watches the deployment type clasp may be preferred and so on. The actual skin types used and the variety also has a bearing in the method best used to manufacture. Croc skin with folded edges is difficult and therefore more costly. If price is important then none of the videos I've seen here or elsewhere would be anywhere close to realistic in time to produce. A stitched watch band is best for sure. Marketing and a name brand count for a lot I have to say. One of the biggest brands I have made for has sold into Nieman Marcus and Sachs amongst others and is also one of the quickest and easiest bands I've ever done. Was their design and the silverware on it made it extra nice.are you yet able to post any pics of the watch? Below are a few of the bands I have done some low cost some not.Regards Brian

[RockyAussie]

[doingmahresearch]

Those are some beautiful straps! Thanks for sharing.

I've been seeing quite a few straps that have just stitching around the buckles, and around the lugs--see example. Are some of those just a single layer of leather? Or are they two pieces glued together? Is using one layer of leather more durable? Is the choice between one or two layers just style?

[arz]

Also, as someone once told me "I'm not paying for the leather, I'm paying for your skills." Fine quality leather for a watch strap in reality is the cheap part, it is the skill and time involved that cost...  -Adam

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, doingmahresearch said:

Those are some beautiful straps! Thanks for sharing.

I've been seeing quite a few straps that have just stitching around the buckles, and around the lugs--see example. Are some of those just a single layer of leather? Or are they two pieces glued together? Is using one layer of leather more durable? Is the choice between one or two layers just style?

The ones shown would be very inexpensive to make but they will stretch longer in a very short time. If your watches are throw a ways these would be fine. Just to add to what Mike has said I think the oily waxy type leathers can be a little more of a problem in watch bands due to the glue not sticking as well and the edge coat being more likely to peel up. Brian

[doingmahresearch]

Huh, oily and waxy finishes are not good for watch bands? What types of finishes would be most suitable?

Also, if I embossed a pattern into the back of the strap (like people like to stamp their logo on the back, but this' be a pattern that'll cover the entire back of the strap) would it hurt the durability / comfort of the strap?

 

Thanks!!

[RockyAussie]

10 hours ago, doingmahresearch said:

Huh, oily and waxy finishes are not good for watch bands? What types of finishes would be most suitable?

Also, if I embossed a pattern into the back of the strap (like people like to stamp their logo on the back, but this' be a pattern that'll cover the entire back of the strap) would it hurt the durability / comfort of the strap?

 

Thanks!!

As to the finishes I agree with Mike and as to what is suitable I could only say ones that are not oily and waxy are easier. In the watch band pictures of mine above you see one that has a red back and on that one I embossed a line pattern onto the entire back surrounding the logo. I have done many various patterns and the reason I do this other than looks is that I don't like sweaty watch bands and this helps the air keep the band dryer and more comfortable to wear. To save you a lot of experimenting try .25mm as your line thickness if you are getting plates made for the impression. The backing leather is best on this with a firmish veg. The lines will make it more flexible.Below see a picture of one pattern version which allows a space for the holes. Regards Brian

Edited July 17, 2017 by RockyAussie
forgot something

[doingmahresearch]

Thanks for the advice!

Hm, so backing Horween Chromexcel or Dublin would be hard since they are both waxy/oily?

Also, for the embossed back patterns, can I infer that embossing an asymmetrical pattern (e.g. waves or contours) will not be good as it'll cause the band to stretch in an imbalanced way?

[RockyAussie]

3 hours ago, doingmahresearch said:

Thanks for the advice!

Hm, so backing Horween Chromexcel or Dublin would be hard since they are both waxy/oily?

Also, for the embossed back patterns, can I infer that embossing an asymmetrical pattern (e.g. waves or contours) will not be good as it'll cause the band to stretch in an imbalanced way?

so backing Horween Chromexcel or Dublin would be hard since they are both waxy/oily? In regards to good adhesion to backing (stitching can overcome this a bit) and edge coat if applied to edges for durability. Not hard to do just not such a good idea. As for asymmetrical I have only ever done symmetrical but I doubt if there would be any significant difference to stretch but that may depend on the construction method used. I have only ever done bands with fillers to enhance the profile but I guess that would also give more resistance to stretching..