badger Report post Posted January 9, 2009 I'd really appreciate some input from you guys who do a lot of stamping. Can anyone suggest a really good quality maker who produces nice Tri-weave stamping tools? I have one from Tandy, but I really don't like the dull impression it leaves. I'd like something nice and clean and sharp. I'm happy to pay for quality. All help gratefully received Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveh Report post Posted January 9, 2009 robert beard pro series tools Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted January 9, 2009 Ellis Barnes at Hackbarth. His tri weave's are a 2 piece set which you set the tri stamp and then go back over it with an undercut weave tool. The results are well worth the extra time. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbird Report post Posted January 9, 2009 I have a rob beard and a craftool one you can get a good impression with craft tool but the only way is to smack it with a hammer and after one time of that it's pretty beat up so I would go with beard but if you have to use craftool beat it hard. Josh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted January 9, 2009 Thanks, You guys are great. Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HarryB Report post Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) Can't remember the man's name but had a demo from the original maker of the triweave stamp at a CSMA meeting years ago. His suggestion is to lightly tilt the tool toward each point and strike. This requires three strikes for each impression but you get into a rythum and it goes pretty smooth. Naturally: the better the quality of the stamp, the better the results. Edited January 9, 2009 by HarryB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted January 10, 2009 Thanks Harry I'll try that. Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted January 10, 2009 (edited) I may be mistaken (wouldn't be the first time) but I believe Bob Beard invented the tri-weave based on a very old hand cut pattern on a saddle that his customer was trying to emulate. I have his tri-weave in a couple of sizes and I have Ellis Barnes two tool version. Ellis's version is easier to run and is much more forgiving than Bob's, although it takes quite a bit more time to run. I personally like Bob's tool the best. The tool actually has a tiny post in each corner that is used for alignment. They both have their own distinct look. The Tri-weave is an extremely difficult tool to run properly, especially over a large area and I don't recommend attempting to work it around an element where you have to match back up, until you have really mastered it's use. Bob recommends running the tool away from you....one point forward....two points to the rear. Done correctly it makes a beautiful pattern with a lot of "life". I would caution anyone, however, to remove all sharp and potentially lethal tools into someone else's care before starting a large tri-weave project! Bob Edited January 10, 2009 by hidepounder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tina Report post Posted January 10, 2009 I would caution anyone, however, to remove all sharp and potentially lethal tools into someone else's care before starting a large tri-weave project! *RAFLMAO* and tears running down my cheek...I KNOW what this is all about:-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted January 11, 2009 Thanks Bob, I didn't know about the Bob Beard story. Very interesting. Pardon my ignorance but what are the visual differences between the tools' impressions? I only have a Tandy tool. The Bob Beard Tri-weave tools are $130 a piece so I need to be sure they're what I need, as I plan on at least two sizes. Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Karl, Sorry it took me a while to get back to you...I thought it would be easier to show you the two tools than to try to explain the difference. The Tri-Weave on the left is from Ellis Barnes at Hackbarth and involves two tools. The one on the right is Bob Beards. I have even provided a view of the common errors created when using both of them (and not on purpose either!). Neither of these samples are good examples of how the tri-weave should look, but you can see the difference between the makers. After doing this, I'm no longer sure which one I like better. Ellis's are more forgiving in my opinion. Just a side note...Ellis's tool blanks are about 3/4" shorter than Beards and are knuckle busters for me! Last year at Wickenburg, Lonnie (works for Ellis) showed me some longer blanks they had made, but I don't know if they are using them. If you contact him, it wouldn't hurt to ask. Hope this helps. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickeyfro Report post Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Bob, If you get a chance could you post a sample of Ellises, but just using the first tool, just for curiositys sake, also by having to buy two tools from him does the price come out to be about the same as Beards?? Edited January 13, 2009 by rickeyfro Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Bob, Thank you so much for showing me the demo of the two tools' impressions. I agree the two-tool system does give fantastic results. I can see so much more life in the pattern. I can also see a use for the tools on their own which adds more value to them as investments. I know the beard tools are $130 for each size. How do the Ellis Barnes tools compare price wise? Also, I'm intrigued as you mentioned the common errors when using the tools....what are they? Many thanks again for taking the time and effort. Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Studio-N Report post Posted January 13, 2009 I personally like Bob's tool the best. The tool actually has a tiny post in each corner that is used for alignment. I saw these at a trade show some years ago and ordered it specifically because of the barbs in each corner. I figured what better way to reduce any slippage. However, when I finally got the tool the corners were smooth. I have not ordered since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted January 13, 2009 If you are not happy with the tool without the tits on the corners, return it to Bob and have him put them back on. Mine have them. You measure across them with a pair of dividers and scribe a railroad track across your area, then keep the tits in those tracks to lay down your first line. I can't imagine the tool coming without those unless you asked for it that way. Nonetheless, Bob is an exceptional artist, toolmaker, and person and will make it right. Art I saw these at a trade show some years ago and ordered it specifically because of the barbs in each corner. I figured what betterway to reduce any slippage. However, when I finally got the tool the corners were smooth. I have not ordered since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Karl & Rickey, I apologise...I just can't remember what Ellis's tools cost. I want to say that the combo was less than Bob's by a considerable amount, but Ellis may have given me a deal...he had just made them and was trying to get them out there. His tools have increased in price considerably in the last couple of years. Karl, if you look at the Beard sample you will see where I have overlaps...I usually correct these with Ellis's second tool. I left them there so that you could see the difficulty in running these tools. The same problem isn't so noticable with Ellis's tool because you automatically cover it up with the second tool. Another hint when using these tools...stretch is a major factor here. You can be really dilligent in keeping things straight, but the stretch in the leather will force you off pattern. At a minimum, tape the back side of the leather with packing tape, and be sure to tape twice, one 90 degrees to the other. I glue everything to a piece of 1/4" acrylic with rubber cement instead of taping. I think it works the best and I'm not concerned about the rubber residue on the back because I line everything! Rickey, You can see what the Hackbarth tool looks like by itself...I stamped it just left of the pattern. If you're thinking of using it by itself, it's not very good looking! Studio-N' I agree with Art...contact Bob, I'm sure he'll make it right! Bob Edited January 13, 2009 by hidepounder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted January 13, 2009 *RAFLMAO* and tears running down my cheek...I KNOW what this is all about:-) ...and to think of how much money I spent just to make myself suicidal is almost more than I can bare! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Thanks for you help Bob, I think I'll go for the Beard tool. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to show me the differences. Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted January 13, 2009 If you don't want to spend the $$$ for Bob's tools then you might want to look at the ones he produced for Hidecrafters under the ProCrafters name. I just looked at their online catalog and it did not have "Discontinued" for either size of them. Therefore they may still have some or carry them. I would suggest calling them to find out. Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Thanks Ben, I'll check it out. Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
