parcx01 Report post Posted September 7, 2017 Whats your favorite glue for leather to leather? Is Barge still considered the best? Is the "New Toluene-Free Formula" as good as the original? Is Weldwood as good as Barge? Hows the "non drip formula"? Are there any effective non toxic or low odor adhesives? My main purpose for this glue is to use it before stitching. What do you recommend??? Please share your experience. Thank You! Quote Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TacticallySharp Report post Posted September 7, 2017 I found the original yellow/red to work better than any other one I tryed. Got their tinner too. I add some to my glue about every 2-3 months. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garypl Report post Posted September 7, 2017 I use Weldwood in the red can - seems to work ok to hold things together before sewing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted September 7, 2017 (edited) I've used a bunch of stuff, . . . Weldwood puts two pieces of leather together so that it becomes one piece. You CAN take it back apart, . . . but you will rip fibers from both pieces, . . . inherently "ripping" the piece apart. Have never had any issue with it except that if I'm doing a number of pieces, . . . there needs to be some consideration fro ventilation, . . . what I mostly do is just get it on the pieces, . . . and leave the shop, . . . go do something else somewhere else that I've been putting off. It is also more economical than Barge in my area. May God bless, Dwight Edited September 7, 2017 by Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Instinctive Report post Posted September 7, 2017 I use Lepage Pres-Tite Green Contact Cement. Water based contact cement with no odor. No ventilation needed. Water clean up. Never had anything come apart unless I ripped it apart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Double Daddy Report post Posted September 7, 2017 2 hours ago, Dwight said: I've used a bunch of stuff, . . . Weldwood puts two pieces of leather together so that it becomes one piece. You CAN take it back apart, . . . but you will rip fibers from both pieces, . . . inherently "ripping" the piece apart. Have never had any issue with it except that if I'm doing a number of pieces, . . . there needs to be some consideration fro ventilation, . . . what I mostly do is just get it on the pieces, . . . and leave the shop, . . . go do something else somewhere else that I've been putting off. It is also more economical than Barge in my area. May God bless, Dwight I'm on the same bandwagon as Dwight...good ol' Weldwood Original in the red can...the potent stuff. I come from a construction background (kitchen cabinets, countertops, etc.)...I've used a bunch of the stuff over the years...I'm very comfortable with it so I've never tried anything else, even when it comes to leatherworking. It can be unforgiving if you don't get the pieces where you want them the FIRST TIME after the adhesive sets up. Be sure to use it in a well-ventilated area, as Dwight pointed out...unless you're one of those individuals who thinks they have brain cells to spare (I'm not so I don't). Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bgl500 Report post Posted September 7, 2017 I have used both Masters and Weldwood with great success. With most cements it's the preparation work and setup that makes the difference. With that being said, I'm very interested in trying the Seiwa water-based glue that's available from Rocky Mountain Leather. Supposedly very strong and dries clear which is a big plus. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted September 7, 2017 Ditto Lepage Pres-Tite Green Contact Cement... but having read above I would like to also go to the other extremes and try some Weldwood... already got rid of a lot of brain cells so more room fro fumes in there... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
k10 Report post Posted September 7, 2017 For flexible I like renia ortec and use it in shoe/boot contruction as only thing I find sticks vibram without failing over distance/time but I use on leather to leather bonding too from watchstraps to wallet linings. Leather to leather is overkill I suppose and more expensive than PU contacts like barge but I use it because it is what I have the most and I like it because it is stronger and doesn't foam like some modified neoprenes do. For less flexible stuff I like GFlex and for stiff gluejoints any polyamine/amine epoxy over 3.5 ton psi because it is strong and bonds leather to almost anything if done properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mokerson Report post Posted October 2, 2017 On 9/7/2017 at 3:24 PM, bgl500 said: I have used both Masters and Weldwood with great success. With most cements it's the preparation work and setup that makes the difference. With that being said, I'm very interested in trying the Seiwa water-based glue that's available from Rocky Mountain Leather. Supposedly very strong and dries clear which is a big plus. I'm also wondering if anyone has any feedback on this Seiwa glue? I saw it last time I was on RMLeather and would be interested, looking for a nice adhesive that dries clear and wont make me leave the room due to fumes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cowboycolonel Report post Posted October 2, 2017 Here in the Peoples' Republic of California, where we're protected from ourselves, we can't get Barge's in any useful quantities, so I've had to go to Master's. It forms a strong bond, seems to grip more readily on moist leather, and doesn't give off such a strong odor, so it's what I use now. Doubt I'd go back to Barge's if I could. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justpaul Report post Posted October 7, 2017 I worked in a shop where we used some German-produced glue and there was also a thinner that went with it, can't recall the name. It worked very well. I have used Barge and Weldwood. Both stick well, but Weldwood seems to leave more of a residue in areas where you glue-past your glue line. I'll probably go back to Barge when I run out of Weldwood, but would like to get some of the German stuff but I can't recall the name of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garypl Report post Posted October 7, 2017 I use masking tape along the glue line if I am concerned about glue getting on areas I plan to finish - apply tape, spread glue, then take off tape before the glue sets. The tape will remove color on pre-finished leather, so I only use it on unfinished leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewerkel Report post Posted November 4, 2017 justpaul - Renia is a popular brand of glue in Europe. Many repair shops in North America like it once they've tried it. Pricey like Barge AP but better on a wide variety of soling material. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewerkel Report post Posted November 4, 2017 cowboycolonel Barge developed the TF formula specifically due to your state's health and safety regs. You should be able to get it in quarts, gallons and five gallon buckets from your shoe findings wholesaler. It doesn't have the silica gel thickener but its a lot easier on the lungs. BTW, all five gallon buckets of chemicals have to have a "Do not allow babies near this" thing on them because of California regs. Can you imagine letting a toddler near an open bucket of glue? ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted November 6, 2017 I like buying the quart cans of Weldwood (red can gel formula). Works great form me. I bought a gallon jug of Barge, and it seems to dry up quickly. I would need to keep the thinner around with that stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites