Members PhilipHN Posted November 11, 2017 Members Report Posted November 11, 2017 Okay coming to this very late, but do you mind me asking why are you using neatsfoot? As someone hugely more experienced than I am said to me recently, neatsfoot is perfect for working-leather, out in all the elements, but not good for anything that will touch clothing because it never really dries and will absorb colour from the leather and transfer it to whatever rubs against it. Quote
Members sheathmaker Posted November 11, 2017 Members Report Posted November 11, 2017 (edited) On 9/10/2017 at 1:26 PM, WoodysWorkshop said: 1. The Super Shene dried for over a week before I put the oil on. 2. Was thinking maybe putting them in the oven for a few minutes? 1. There's your first mistake. If you are going to use Neatsfoot or any other oil it should go on first and be allowed to level. The Super Sheen used first acts as a resist and won't allow the oil to penetrate properly and cause the "goo" you experienced. 2. Never a good idea to put leather in an oven, PERIOD. Neatsfoot Oil should be used very sparingly applied to the grain side only. It will penetrate all the way through to the flesh side as it levels out, therefor applying to the flesh side is not necessary and should not be done, except in very rare and unusual cases. In every case each subsequent top coat (different product) should only be applied after the previous coat is completely dry or has leveled out. The foregoing is my personal opinion based on my experience and others may differ. Paul Edited November 11, 2017 by sheathmaker Quote Paul long-----108 Briarwood Ln. W-----Kerrville, TX--78028------830 367 5536-- pfl@cebridge.net
Members WoodysWorkshop Posted November 12, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 12, 2017 Thanks for the advise. I put the super shene on one side, the neats foot oil on the other. I'm a figurin I put too much oil on and it soaked through to the front side and goed the shene. Lesson learned. And per the link and advice, I used some household alcohol and scrubbed with an old toothbrush and all turned out well. I've got 3 other sheaths in the making, but they are on hold as I've taken them as far as I can. Need to acquire some funds for color to finish. All 3 are for fixed blades. One I made a mold and formed it, one I used spacers, and the last one I did a fold w/spacer on one side. One will laced, one stitched, maybe 2 row stitched (by hand) and the last rivited (maybe stitched too) to work on those processes. Quote
Members WoodysWorkshop Posted November 12, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 12, 2017 8 hours ago, PhilipHN said: Okay coming to this very late, but do you mind me asking why are you using neatsfoot? As someone hugely more experienced than I am said to me recently, neatsfoot is perfect for working-leather, out in all the elements, but not good for anything that will touch clothing because it never really dries and will absorb colour from the leather and transfer it to whatever rubs against it. I'm really new to all of this. I learned some 40+ years ago in middle school. After life changing events I no longer have my wood shop, so I'm taking something up to take up my time that I can do in the apartment here. So it's a learn as I go type thing. As for color bleeding, I don't think that will happen. All the color I used was paint, not dye or stain.. But good questions! Quote
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