Want to get more depth to my carving

[fleabitpokey]

Need any tips or instruction here. Looking at the pictures posted by Clay of the Sheridan 07 show. First they are beautiful. Second,how do I get more depth in my carving? To get the depth ,is it the swivel knife cuts,actual stamping tools, how well the leather is cased, the quality of the leather itself, or do I need a big d--- maul?....or all of the above :biggrin: Any advice will be greatly appreciated, thanks Stephanie

[MatthewD]

I would love to know this also..

[Clay]

To get good depth, there are several things that you can do. First is the swivel knife cuts the should be 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the leather and they should feather out to nothing as they come to the center of the vinework. Then the beveling is usually done with a steep angle beveler. If you do not have a steep angel beveler you can get the same effect by tilting a regular beveler forward as you walk it. You don't need a heavy mallet or maul, but the impressions do need to be to the same depth as the cuts or more and also feather with the cuts.. I use a 16 oz maul most of the time when I tool. The third thing the gives the depth is the background. What ever tool you like to use for the background should be used so that the background is well compressed and even. I like to use the bargrounders with the tiny, tiny seeds. But I also use a A-104 alot.

Hope this helps a little,

Clay M.

[Dale]

This is a fairly open-ended question. To better answer the question, it would be best to know what piece(s) are you looking at. Depth comes in different ways.

[ClayB]

I think the other Clay (aka Bert) gave good advice. I think the quality of leather, and the casing will make a difference. Some leather is just easier to work with and when your casing is just right, carving goes better. If you leather is too wet, your cuts and tool impressions tend to close back up. If it is too dry, the impressions just wont go very deep. Another thing that helps on thinner leather is to rubber cement it to cardboard, poster board, etc. This allows you to get deeper impressions without your tools going through the leather. I don't use a real heavy mallet. I think proper depth to your cuts, and proper casing will make more difference than a heavier mallet.

Clay (aka Ernie)

[MatthewD]

I think that my biggest problem is knowing if it cased correctly. It seems like that I usually have it too wet. Can anyone tell me a good test that would give me an idea when I am in the correct "wetness" park. Not having anyone around to watch is a killer at times. I have been having a very hard time with using books lately for carving or braiding..

[whinewine]

I think that my biggest problem is knowing if it cased correctly. It seems like that I usually have it too wet. Can anyone tell me a good test that would give me an idea when I am in the correct "wetness" park. Not having anyone around to watch is a killer at times. I have been having a very hard time with using books lately for carving or braiding..

A pretty quick & easy way to determine if the leather is cased just right is, after wetting it, WAIT TILL THE LEATHER RETURNS TO ITS NATURAL COLOR!!!! Put it up to your cheek: if it feels cool on your cheek, it is cased properly!

The hardest thing is to resist the temptation to add more water- you think it's drying out, but it isn't. The key is the coolness on the cheek. Dry leather won't feel cool, but properly cased leather will.

Hope this helps.

[fleabitpokey]

To get good depth, there are several things that you can do. First is the swivel knife cuts the should be 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the leather and they should feather out to nothing as they come to the center of the vinework. Then the beveling is usually done with a steep angle beveler. If you do not have a steep angel beveler you can get the same effect by tilting a regular beveler forward as you walk it. You don't need a heavy mallet or maul, but the impressions do need to be to the same depth as the cuts or more and also feather with the cuts.. I use a 16 oz maul most of the time when I tool. The third thing the gives the depth is the background. What ever tool you like to use for the background should be used so that the background is well compressed and even. I like to use the bargrounders with the tiny, tiny seeds. But I also use a A-104 alot.

Hope this helps a little,

Clay M.

Clay M. thanks, I am not cutting deep enough. I will practice to feather. I will try to tilt my beveler. Is there a right way to use the bargrounders? Or do you just keep tapping until it feels right. I appreciate your comments,thank you.Stephanie

This is a fairly open-ended question. To better answer the question, it would be best to know what piece(s) are you looking at. Depth comes in different ways.

I am asking about learning in general. Not about any particular piece,at this time. Just realize that I need the appearance of depth. Stephanie

I think the other Clay (aka Bert) gave good advice. I think the quality of leather, and the casing will make a difference. Some leather is just easier to work with and when your casing is just right, carving goes better. If you leather is too wet, your cuts and tool impressions tend to close back up. If it is too dry, the impressions just wont go very deep. Another thing that helps on thinner leather is to rubber cement it to cardboard, poster board, etc. This allows you to get deeper impressions without your tools going through the leather. I don't use a real heavy mallet. I think proper depth to your cuts, and proper casing will make more difference than a heavier mallet.

Clay (aka Ernie)

Clay, I think judging the casing has been answered by both you and Whinwwine. Thanks to you both. Rubber cementing will be tried soon. I am going to go for deeper cuts on the next practice piece. Thank you. The help here is awesome.

Sorry just couldn't let the Bert and Ernie thing go.. Got me curious. Thanks stephanie

[Roger]

i would think most of what you were looking at was made from much thicker leather than you are working with.

besides proper casing.. a good solid work surface makes all the difference in the world!

[MatthewD]

Thanks, I will try that the next time I am about to do some work, which should be in the next few days.. working on a project for my son...

A pretty quick & easy way to determine if the leather is cased just right is, after wetting it, WAIT TILL THE LEATHER RETURNS TO ITS NATURAL COLOR!!!! Put it up to your cheek: if it feels cool on your cheek, it is cased properly!

The hardest thing is to resist the temptation to add more water- you think it's drying out, but it isn't. The key is the coolness on the cheek. Dry leather won't feel cool, but properly cased leather will.

Hope this helps.