Matt S Report post Posted October 9, 2017 A few months ago I asked about how close to the edge of the cylinder bed various machines will sew. It turns out there is no ready reference for this distance, even in most manufacturers' brochures. So let's accumulate what knowledge we can here, and create a valuable resource. Other machines and setups, please PM me or comment onto this thread and I'll edit this first post to add your information. Adler 205-370 w/ harness plate: 1/4" (6.5mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate 441-type w/ standard needle plate: 5/16" (4mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate 441-type w/ holster plate: 1/16" (1.6mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate Juki 246 w/ standard plate: 1/4" (6.5mm) No extra needed for bobbin cover plate Singer 17U241: 1/4" (6.5mm) No extra needed for bobbin cover plate Singer 45K21: 1/8" (3mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) Just one thing, your conversions from inches to mm are off ..1 inch doesn't equal 26mm, it does equal 25.4 mm*.. so 1/4" = 6.3 mm..( approx ) IME it is safer to work with 1" = 25mm as most manufacturers of tools seem to work with 1"= 24mm or 25mm..A 1" nut can be tightened with a 25mm socket or spanner ..a 26mm will slip just enough to be annoying. HTH :) Of course, it depends on where the machines, or other things were made, as to what system ( metric or imperial ) they were made to. China tends to make to metric ( even if they mention imperial ), India makes imperial ( but sells in metric countries at 1"=24mm ) which makes buying certain things awkward in Europe depending on where the things were made. Thread ( engineering , not textile ) measurement systems are a whole 'nother can o' worms..and then there are Singer thread pitches, counts etc. :(( NASA and metric measurements are best not spoken about. :-o *Under 0.5 safer to "round down" to the nearest "whole", rather than "round up" to the "nearest whole"..and then there are "thou", both sorts of "thou"..metric and imperial.. Very good idea for a "resource thread" though :) ..another would be actual practical "sewable" thickness under foot of non modified machines ( flat bed or cylinder/post etc ). Edited October 9, 2017 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted October 9, 2017 10 hours ago, Matt S said: A few months ago I asked about how close to the edge of the cylinder bed various machines will sew. It turns out there is no ready reference for this distance, even in most manufacturers' brochures. So let's accumulate what knowledge we can here, and create a valuable resource. Other machines and setups, please PM me or comment onto this thread and I'll edit this first post to add your information. Adler 205-370 w/ harness plate: 1/4" (6.5mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate 441-type w/ standard needle plate: 5/16" (4mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate 441-type w/ holster plate: 1/16" (1.6mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate Juki 246 w/ standard plate: 1/4" (6.5mm) No extra needed for bobbin cover plate Singer 17U241: 1/4" (6.5mm) No extra needed for bobbin cover plate Singer 45K21: 1/8" (3mm) Plus extra for bobbin cover plate Hi Matt S, Perhaps you have some particular type of project that you would like to achieve and would like to have the best machine for the job. I think for this thread to have some good reference value it would be an idea to ask people to post pictures with comments on how close they can stitch from the edge with a particular set up. Say you want to stitch a 1+ 1/2" veg tan ring that has one end blocked of with no flex in it. I want to stitch in 2 or 3 mm from the edge. Most machines except a patcher will not work. If I wanted to do this perhaps I could make the end thin and flexible then glue in a stiffener later after being sewn. Probably on my 331 or 335 Pfaff or 69 Adler but any of those would work on a 2"(50.8mm?) ring better. The important point I am trying to say is that on some machines like with a holster plate just because you could say I can stitch ? mm from the edge is not true if the article is not able to fit over the cylinder diameter in some cases. If it were a straight job than being a cylinder might be irrelevant anyway. I think if I remember in another similar thread it was suggested that a machines needle was only this small distance from the end of the cylinder which at a glance sounds good but if the machine is fed by the dog foot and the dog foot is only to the right of the needle then what is the use of that? Maybe think up some parameters (thread thickness,leather thickness etc is the end to be blocked off as in a gusset end?) and challenge us to come up with some answers then. For an example I will load a picture of a tubular tool bag to further explain. Hope that makes some sense. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
